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Car stalls when it warms up

Tiny
RMONET2012
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET CORSICA
  • 16,000 MILES
Car - 91 Chevy Corsica 3.1 (160,000 miles)

Problem - Car struggles (no power), bucks and eventually stalls on inclines. If I wait about an hour, it will starts up OK and runs until it warms up.

Then it starts all over again - No power when I hit the accelerator while climbing up a hill or navigate steep country roads.

My speed drops down to 35-45 an hour, and stalls if I try to go any faster.

Garage work done:

The Check Engine Light was on - Replaced 2 of the fuel injectors, the Cat (old one was clogged) and EGR value.

I was told the other 4 injectors were tested and were OK.

It ran great for about a week before same problem came back. Note: The check engine light did go away, but someone told me it was probably reset. Not sure.

I had another mechanic run extensive diagnostics (with the car on) with a expensive meter. He was able to duplicate the stalling. The only error code from the scan pointed to a bad ignition module.

It was replaced, along with all the coils.

The problem did not go away.

Other things replaced or tried:
Map sensor
Crank sensor
Coolant temp sensor
New spark plugs and wires
Fuel injector cleaner additives
Fuel pressure was checked - it's good


I'm a big fan of your web site; so I'm hoping you might be the one to figure this out.

I'm a senor, living on a very fixed income and I need the car to get to my job.

Without the car I can't make enough to fix the car properly or get another.

Do you have any thoughts on what the problem is and what I can try?

I've exhausted all my funds trying to fix the problem.

I've gone through 5 different "street mechanics" and no one seems to have a clue.

Please help me

Thank you,

Rob
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 5:14 PM

89 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Since problem is engine temperature related, I would suggest checking the ECT.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
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Not sure if you mean the Coolant Temp sensor; if so, it has been changed.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Sorry I missed that out.
Presently are there any trouble codes?
You did not mention anything about the Throttle Position Sensor. Was it tested?
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 6:17 PM
Tiny
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The only code that came up indicated a bad Ignition module, which was changed (along with the coils). As for the throttle position sensor, I don't believe it was. Where is it located on the Corsica?
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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It is on the throttle body.
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
RMONET2012
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Do you have any idea what I can try that I have not tried or changed?
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Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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First thing you need to do is to check what is missing when it stalled and could not start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The above link explains what to look for. Let me know what you find. Changing components without understand and checking if it is faulty is not the way to go about.

There are many possibilities and if it is elecrically related, that would make even more complicated.
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Wednesday, August 15th, 2012 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
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Thanks for the article and good advice. I agree, I don't have the
money to keep replacing components to see which fixes the problem.

I'm not sure how the article applies to my car. The car has no
problem cranking and starting up, even when it dies on me on the road.

After it gets warm, the car begins to stall when I try to accelerate
(usually on county roads). After it cools down, I've been able to
limp back home (slowly).

The real issues are:

1) Why does the car stall AFTER it warms up and in gear (Drive).

2) Why does it stall ONLY after I gas is applied to climb inclines.
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Wednesday, August 15th, 2012 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
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Stalling at operating temperature and easily cranks up can mean the idling speed is too low. When idling speed is too low, the IAC could be dirty resulting in inefficient air flow. Cleaning the IAC and throttle body should solve the idling issue as there are no trouble codes.
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Thursday, August 16th, 2012 AT 8:45 AM
Tiny
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Questions

What kind of cleaner should I use? Can I use something like WD-40?
I've seen several how-to videos on cleaning the IAC and throttle body.

Some have the engine running, others don't.

Which is correct?
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Thursday, August 16th, 2012 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
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You should get carb cleaner. WD-40 is not good enough. I would do it with engine off to get all the dirt out first. Spray into throttle and use a toothbrush to clear what ever dirt you can see around the throttle plate. Use a piece of rag to wipe off whatever you can and repeat a few times till the throttle is clean.

For IAC, spray and let it soak for a few minutes. Repeat sparying after waiting and wipe off.

After cleaning the first round, wait a while with thrpttle open and start engine. Might taking some cranking time or stall after starting due to presence of the carb cleaner. Once engine starts, flip throttle to prevent stalling and let idle stabilise.

If you are not satisfied and wish to repeat process with engine running, you may do so but you would have to flip the throttle to prevent stalling.
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Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
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I notice the rubber hose that attaches to the throttle has a crack (see photo). Do I need to replace the hose? Where is the IAC located in the photo?
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Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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IAC is on throttle body. In your first picture the one with 4 wires at left middle is it.

The cracked hose should be replaced as leaks would allow unfiltered air to get to engine.
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Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
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Thanks!

You wrote "After cleaning the first round, wait a while with thrpttle open and start engine. Might taking some cranking time or stall after starting due to presence of the carb cleaner. Once engine starts, flip throttle to prevent stalling and let idle stabilize."

Question - Can I test it without the crack hose attached?

Also, do I need to remove the IAC to clean it?
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Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
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I believe your engine is not equipped with MAF so you can start engine without the hose. If equipped with MAF then it might not be possible as the MAF is connected to other end of hose at air cleaner and would result in stalling.

Removing the IAC would allow you to clean it better but you can try without first. Just make sure you spray into the air flow ports of the IAC inside the throttle body to get it clean.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
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Throttle and IAC have been cleaned.

I started the car, waited for it to warm up and gave it some gas.
Once again it stalled, just like before.

The car cranks and starts but eventually stalls out.
.

BTW - I did a simple check on the fuel pump.

1. I checked the fuse and relay - both were good.
2. With the gas cap removed, I listened for the pump to 'click on'
I could hear the fuel pump start (click).

Any thoughts on what to check next?

PS: I'm working on replacing the ripped hose.

Q - Do you know the proper name for this part?
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
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That is the air hose for the throttle body.

Actually the idling speed can be adjusted and you might give it a try.

V6 IDLE SPEED
NOTE:
Incorrect idle speeds are normally caused by dirty throttle plate or vacuum leaks. Ensure all vacuum components are functioning properly.

1. Install "Scan" tester to ALDL test connector located under driver's side of dash. Start and run engine to normal operating temperature. Observe Idle Air Control (IAC) minimum 10-20) counts.

2. If IAC counts are incorrect, use an awl to pierce cover of minimum idle stop screw. Apply leverage to remove cover. Turn idle stop screw out until screw clears linkage. Turn screw in until screw touches linkage. Turn screw in an additional 1 1/2 turns.

3. Turn idle stop screw in to decrease IAC counts. Turn screw out to increase IAC counts. If minimum idle speed correction requires more than 1/2 turn (in or out) of idle stop screw, check for vacuum leaks or dirty throttle plate. Clear any trouble codes.
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
RMONET2012
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Thanks for the part name.

I'm a little hesitate to mess around with idle adjustments. I don't want to make things worse.

You need to know

1. I'm not a mechanic and the only reason I'm even attempting all
this is because I don't have the money for a proper mechanic.

2. I don't have a "scan" tester. Are they expensive?

Q - Should I try cleaning the throttle body and IAC again?

Thanks
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
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Yes, you can try cleaning the throttle again.

What is the idling speed after warming up?
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 5:22 PM
Tiny
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Where is the idle stop screw located (see photos).
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Saturday, August 18th, 2012 AT 5:29 PM

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