1989 Jeep Wrangler ignition cylinder

See pic for instructions. If you can't turn cylinder you'll have to use a slide hammer and pull it out then just install a new one.

IF YOU WILL OBTAIN A NEW CYLINDER (SO YOU CAN USE IT FOR A REFERENCE AS TO KNOW LENGTH AND OPERATION)

YOU CAN DRILL THE OLD CYLINDER'S KEY SLOT WITH A 3/8" - 1/2" METAL DRILL BIT

LET'S NOT GET CARRIED AWAY-LOOK AT HOW LONG THE NEW ONE IS

BEFORE YOU GET ON THRU, PIECES WILL START FALLING OUT, OR YOU CAN PICK THEM OUT

LET'S LOOK AT THE NEW ONE AGAIN

LOOK AT THE LOCKS THAT HOLD THE OUTER PORTION OF THE CYLINDER INTO THE COLUMN

YOU MAY HAVE TO DRILL A LITTLE OF AN ANGLE TO GET RID OF METAL IN THE WAY

YOUR GOAL IS TO CLEAR JUST ENOUGH CRAP SO THAT YOU CAN "DIG" THE LOCKS INWARD, THUS RELEASING THE OUTER PORTION OF THE CYLINDER FROM THE COLUMN

KEEP IN MIND, ALL DRILLING AND PECKING NEED TO BE IN THE INNARDS OF THE CYLINDER, DON'T DRILL THRU THE OUTER PART, OR YOU WILL BE CHEWING ON THE COLUMN.

YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO "UNLOCK" THE OLD ONE BEFORE YOU GET NEAR THE BOTTOM

ONCE/ IF YOU GET NEARER TO THE BOTTOM, YOU DON'T WANT TO CHEW ON THE CENTER OF THE INNER PART OF THE CYLINDER, (SEE THE BOTTOM OF THE NEW CYLINDER) THERE IS SORTA A FLAT SCREWDRIVER KINDA PIECE THAT FITS INSIDE THAT SLOT, WE DON'T WANNA DAMAGE IT! IT DOES NOT STICK WAY UP, THE NEW CYLINDER SHOULD GIVE YOU AN IDEA AS TO HOW FAR IT DOES

IF YOU STILL NEED TO DRILL, DROP DOWN TO A 1/4" OR 3/16" BIT AND STAY AWAY FROM THE CENTER.

THE OLE SLIDE HAMMER METHOD SOMETIMES WILL BREAK PARTS OF THE COLUMN, MANY TIMES THE NEW CYLINDER WILL NOT HAVE ANYTHING TO LOCK BACK ONTO TO HOLD IT IN.

THE NEW CYLINDER SHOULD SLIDE RIGHT IN IF YOU TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION TO UNLATCH/ FREE UP THE LOCKS FIRST

LET US KNOW HOW IT GOES

THE MEDIC