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Coolant Leak from a Mystery Hose Connector

Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 CHEVROLET BERETTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I know this is an old question, but, I have a problem that was asked, but, never followed up by the original questioner (http://www.2carpros.com/questions/chevrolet-beretta-radiatior-fluid-leaking-please-help). If you are standing in front of the car, looking at the firewall, it is a flanged hose connector sticking out of the wall, just to the left of the 2 A/C lines. I believe they are called the discharge and suction line assembly.
At any rate, there is nothing connected to this hose connector and coolant is leaking from it. I can find no info online or in the repair manual pertaining to this.
A side note... There is only one line going from the surge tank to the radiator, just under the cap. There is a straight opening in the bottom of the tank...like a plastic funnel end...which sits in an open hole in the chassis... I am assuming it is for overflow, but, could it possibly be that there should be a hose going from it to my mystery connection in the firewall?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 9:22 PM

37 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If it s coolant coming out -the heater core might not be hooked-up
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Heater core sounds right, but it's probably leaking and you're seeing coolant drip from the drain pan in the heater box. There should be a short rubber hose hanging down from the plastic tube on the firewall. If something with the cooling system wasn't connected, the engine would be overheating.
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 10:05 PM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
By the way. Happy Fathers Day to you guys. My expertise is sound systems and customizing interiors so understand that I am looking for a quick solution here until he can take it to a certified mech, guys. The car does overheat. The coolant level will drop to the point where the low coolant dummy light comes on within 5 or 6 miles. The connector I am seeing is capable of taking a 1/2" - 5/8" ID. A bit large for a drain, I would think. The heater core was replaced about 6 months ago by a different mechanic (who seems to have disappeared, oddly enough).
Here's the scenario, guys. And I do appreciate your getting back to me so quickly. Can I just cap it off? The guy needs it to commute some 90 miles one way to work. It's pushing 100 degrees out here and I am sure he can refrain from using the heater/defroster. And the AC doesn't work anyway. It's 4 PM, Sunday and he leaves like at 3:330 A. Plus I am tired of wrestling with this POS and would like to get on with my fathers day! Lol!
I'm just looking for a temp fix that will keep him on the road until he can take it to a certified mech.
Any thoughts?
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Sunday, June 19th, 2011 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If your heater core is leaking, you really shouldn't be driving it. Capping off the drain will only cause it to leak inside the car on your carpet instead of outside.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:00 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Maybe this will help. I managed to get my cell phone in for a pic. Does this clear it up a bit?
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:17 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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That's the drain. If it's clear water coming out, that would be normal. If it's coolant, then you have a leaking heater core.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Ok. Thank you. It is coolant that is leaking out This means the heater core needs to be replaced, correct? This actually shortens my day. Lol.
Thanks for all your help, guys. I appreciate it. Have a happy Father's day. What;s left of it.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Yes, it's a heater core. Don't drive it that way or it could turn into a bad motor real easily.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:24 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
OK. I understand and the information has been passed on to the owner. He's not happy, but, he would have been a lot more unhappy if he blew the motor. I would say you guys just saved him about $1,500. Oo BEFORE labor!
Nice work, all of you.
And especially thank you, Wrenchtech.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:34 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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You're welcome
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
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LMAO! He just sent me a message asking me if I can pull the heater core. Lol! Now I have to look up how to do that! LMAO! Ah well. Money is money.
Thanks again.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:44 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Negative battery cable.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Hoist car.
4. Drain tube from heater case and heater hoses from heater core.
5. Lower car.
6. Right and left hush panels and steering column trim cover.
7. Heater outlet duct and glove box.
8. Heater core cover-pull straight back to avoid breaking drain tube.
9. Heater core clamps and remove core.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 12:53 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
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Got it. Thanks.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Say What? $1500 where's my cut so I can donate it to the site to keep it going for people in need. Don' be surprise if you comeback and were not here due to out of commissioned/lacking fundings
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 1:52 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
LMAO! I said saved HIM. Lol! I'm the sucka who is working for peanuts!
I opened the dash to find. Guess what, guys. The heater core had a quarter-sized black spot in the radiator fins and a steady dripping of coolant. The part was bought new from Autozone 3 months ago.
Here's the funny part.
The mechanic who installed the core installed it and then connected the hoses reversed. Not sure if that is bad, but, to my thinking. Ummmm. Yeah.
Heater core is out and is still under warranty (I am not telling them about the hose reversal faux pas).
With no more forseeable problems, I should have the car running again tomorrow afternoon.
Once again.
I offer my heartfelt and eager thanks to all of you for all of your fantastic help. Forget the 1500. Oo you may have saved this guy. You allowed me to have a nice dinner with my wife and 3 kids.
Thank you all again.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 3:35 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Okay I understand I thought you were single and loaded-lol. You have a great Father's Day's and Good Luck

BTW you're very welcomed and thanks for using 2carpros
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 3:47 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
When you're done, use a digital voltmeter to measure the voltage between ground and the coolant in the reservoir. If you find more than about 2.0 volts, flush and replace the coolant. Acids normally build up from combustion gases seeping in. Anytime there's two different kinds of metal and an acid, there will be corrosion. A common symptom is repeated failure of heater cores.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 4:00 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Thanks, Caradiodoc. I was reading about the testing procedure and how to do this earlier today, but, the manual never explained WHY this test should be done.
Another mystery solved.
You guys are GOOD!
Lol!
BTW, Ras. Now that I know about this place.I am more than likely to become a permanent resident. Lol! Whenever I pull out my Goat, neighbors tend to gather and riddle me with 'How To' questions non-stop.
Peace, guys. I hope I can return the favor in the future.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 6:39 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
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The electrolysis that Doc has referred to is usually caused by an electrical issue and usually not suspected unless you have multiple failures of the same component. The most common reason for electrolysis is a bad or missing ground that caused voltage to find it's own ground through the cooling system. These heater cores fail quite often on their own in that particular vehicle but since Doc dislikes GM so much, he's likely already aware of that weakness. LOL
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
NO1SBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Lol.
This Beretta is evidently a salvaged title, to add gasoline to the fire. I think he said he paid $100.00 for it outright and figured it a great deal since the body was straight, paint still in good condition, interior was all original and in fine condition. On the surface, it was a helluva steal.
Then came the smog and registration fees, replacing all the tires, about $600.00 in engine parts to get it going only long enough to realize that now the fun begins. Hunting down all the little reasons that fine looking automobile sat for so many years to be sold off at such a cheap price. Lol.
I told him that if he wanted a project car, he should have picked out something more worthy than a Beretta.
I think it is just the fact that he is so far into this thing now that his pride just won't let him junk the damned thing.
Once he gets one serious problem repaired, another pops up no more than a week later.
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Monday, June 20th, 2011 AT 10:37 AM

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