I'm sorry, but I'm even more confused. I still don't have any idea what "the wires to toggle" means. By "fuel pump solenoid", if you're referring to a failed fuel pump relay, why wouldn't you simply replace it? The system is designed to turn the fuel pump off if the engine stalls. That is a safety feature in case a fuel line gets ruptured in a crash. If the fuel pump kept on running, it would dump raw fuel onto the ground where it would be a serious fire hazard. You bypassed that safety system with a switch? If the other guy runs a red light and causes a crash, his lawyer or insurance investigator is going to love you. That switch will remove a lot of their liability for your injuries.
I don't know what a "gmas" is or if it's important to the story. Also don't know what it took to get the engine restarted, but even though there's no definitive clues, what you've described suggests a signal from a sensor is being lost. That sensor would be the pickup coil inside the distributor. There's two different systems depending on where your ignition module is. If you have a large box on the inner fender or firewall, the sensor it uses doesn't cause too much trouble. The most likely problem is the wires break from flexing.
If you have the much smaller "TFI" module bolted to the side of the distributor, that uses a three-wire sensor that often fails by becoming heat-sensitive, then it works again when it cools down for an hour.
The place to start is by checking for spark as soon as the engine stalls. Since the distributor was just replaced, the assumption is the pickup coil was part of it so it's new. That would leave the ignition module as the main suspect for a no-spark problem.
Wednesday, December 2nd, 2015 AT 4:28 PM