ignition problem, no spark to the distributor cap?

didnt take too many pictures from todays activities. but here are a few.

1. Old Spark plugs that came out of it. POS champions, replaced with bosch platinums.
2. Future floor panel starting to take shape. made a few more cuts and bends after this picture was taken. trying to fight the setting sun.

I SUBMITTED ANOTHER ANSWER---IT MAY SHOW UP--IT MAY NOT

IF IT DOES'T, I GUESS I'LL WRITE IT AGAIN

THIS HAS HAPPENED BEFORE---I'LL WAIT A BIT BEFORE I PECK IT OUT AGAIN

THE MEDIC

I MESSAGED A BIG GUY HERE, HE SAYS IT LOOKS LIKE MY LAST ANSWER IS IN CYBER SPACE SOMEWHERE....I WILL RE-PECK YOU ANOTHER AS CLOSE TO THE LAST AS POSSIBLE....IT OUGHTA BE HERE WITHIN THE HOUR

THE MEDIC

HERE GOES AGAIN

1ST, IF ALL OF YOUR PLUGS HAVE THE SAME COLOR AS THIS ONE.....YOU HAVE A GOOD EFFICIENT BURN AND YOUR INTERNAL CYLINDER COMPONENTS ARE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER, YOUR MILEAGE WILL MOST LIKELY BE CLOSE TO PEAK. INSURING YOUR VACUUM LINES ARE WHERE NEEDED AND THERE ARE NOT VACUUM LEAKS. TIMING AND CORRECT DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCES (TESTS), A LITTLE CARB TWEAKING........YOU SHOULD BE GOOD FOR A TRANSCONTINENTAL TRIP!

HERE'S HOW YOU SORTA USE A VACUUM GAUGE.....I THINK YOU CAN FIND THE OTHER EXPLANATIONS AT THE "HOLLEY WEB SITE" WHEN THE VIDEO RUNS OUT. A VACUUM GAUGE ON THE DASH (LIKE MINE) WILL ALERT YOU OF PROBLEMS, AND ALSO LETS YOU PLAY THE "GAME"----"SEE HOW HIGH I CAN KEEP THE GAUGE, WHILE I DRIVE!". THIS WILL LET YOU SEE FIRST-HAND HOW A HEAVY FOOT (OR UNAWARE FOOT) WILL COST YOU MPGs


MY LAST ANSWER IN THIS POST WILL SHOW YOU HOW A.NAL I AM WITH MY JEEP, I LIKE GAUGES, I'M GONNA GET MORE! MY VACUUM GAUGE IS THE TOP RIGHT (ABOVE THE "NORMAL" RADIO LOCATION" (MY RADIO IS MOUNTED UNDER THE DASH IN FRONT OF MY 20MM AMMO CAN CONSOLE)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1986-nissan-truck-loping-idle

THE LUG NUT REMOVAL TOOL AT WORK IS PART OF A SET W/ MISSING PIECES....I WAS TOLD IT WAS A LOANER/ IN STORE TOOL...IT'S ON THE CART WITH THE CRAPPY MISMATCHED TOOLS USED IN THE PARKING LOT (ONE OF THOSE DEALS WHERE MORE AND MORE DISAPPEARS OVER TIME, THEN REPLACED WITH CHEAP-O GET BY TOOLING) THIS WAS WHAT IT ORIGINALLY WAS. IT MAY BE A LOANER IN YOUR AREA

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_5-Piece-Locking-Lug-Nut-Twise-Lock-Technology_25980975-P_N3409A_T%7CGRP2062_____

IF YOU WANT AN INEXPENSIVE KEEPER (SELDOM USED) THIS MAY BE YOU! THESE WILL B.OOGER UP THE OUTSIDES, AND THEY JUST "TAKE OUT"--NOT "PUT 'EM BACK". THEY ONLY "BITE AND HANG ON" WHEN TURNED CCW


USE A LONG "JUMPER WIRE" (ALLIGATOR CLIPS ON BOTH ENDS) AND CONNECT TO NEG ON YOUR BATTERY---THEN TO THE BODY OR GROUND PORTIONS OF YOUR LIGHT FIXTURES (TEMPORARY) IF YOUR LIGHTS WORK CORRECTLY, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS OR INSTALL NEW ONES TO THE FIXTURES. WITH AS MUCH RUST AS YOU DESCRIBE, YOUR GROUNDS MAY BE IN BAD SHAPE TOO.

THE WRONG FILAMENT BURNING OR AT THE WRONG BRIGHTNESS IS EITHER A GROUND ISSUE, OR SOMEONE HAS BEEN CHOPPIN' AND SPLICIN' STUFF BACK TOGETHER IN WRONG OR ADDING OTHER FIXTURES IN, INCORRECTLY.

I HAVE NOT COMPARED THE DIAGRAM FOR YOURS WITH THE '79, I'M SORTA DOING MOST OF THE PECKING---SO I WILL LEAVE THAT FOR YOU!

I REALLY THINK THAT THE GAUGES, LIGHT CIRCUITS ARE UNCHANGED IN THE DIAGRAMS (OTHER STUFF TOO) MINE WILL BE SO EZ TO FOLLOW THE "NOW COLORED" WIRES....LOOKING IN A MANUAL EVERYTHING IS SO SMALL, BLACK AND WHITE, AND WHEN MULTIPLE WIRES RUN PARALLEL, YOU ACCIDENTALLY FOLLOW THE WRONG ONE! CHECK MINE OUT AND TELL ME IT AIN'T EZier!!!........IF YOU NEED IT RE-SENT, LET ME KNOW

REMEMBER ON THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH BODY THERE IS A BUTTON THAT RELEASES THE STEM, SO YOU CAN PULL THE STEM AND K.NOB OFF THE FRONT OF THE DASH AS "ONE PIECE", TO BE REUSED IN THE NEW SWITCH

HAVE I SENT YOU ANY OF MY WALMART ALBUMS, WITH MY JEEP MODIFICATIONS? (I HAVE TERRIBLE "CRS") IF SO HOW MANY, WERE THEY HELPFUL?

THE MEDIC

well the P.O. had done plenty of cheap rigged wiring. he had an obsession with wiring and welding. such a pain in the ass! But ill do some tests with the grounds soon, been working on the floor pan yesterday and today. its ready to go in, the paint was drying today when i went to work. hopefully it'll be in there tomorrow. than ill keep on working with the wiring.

i read up some of those links you posted. could you give me a little more info on how you did the O2 sensor and the gauge to show rich/lean/stoich etc. that definately seems like something i might do with it, it needs a new exhaust, front pipe is cracked and rubbing on the motor mounts. so i figured while ill be doing that maybe i could do what you did with yours.

most of the albums you send me were of your willys, and your rebuild process. from how you got it to how it is today. But if youve got others ill gladly take a look! could always use a little more inspiration.

picked up the 80-90W gear oil today. maybe ill get that started tomorrow. already have new gaskets for both diff's. gonna also do the tranny and t-case. the t-case also uses the same gear oil, right? only reason i ask is because my '88 with the NP231 t-case said to use automatic transmissioon fluid in it.

as far as the other spark plugs go: that one in the picture was from the furthest cylinder forward (closest to the radiator) and all the others were just slightly darker. and Champions (which i hear are the worst to use) But i havent got a clue on how new or old they were before i got the jeep. ill snap a picture tomorrow of the other ones to show you, if i can remember.

before i go chewing them up or putting out the money for them pieces you linked me to, im gonna take a drive over the the P.O.'s house and ask him if he has the keys to the locks. its gotta be worth a shot, worst can happen is he says no.

usually before i submit an answer ill highlight it and copy it in case it doesnt go thru. learned that the hard way. maybe you should give it a shot for when yours dont work.

remember that little box by the solenoid that we couldnt figure out what it was for? well i had it running today and i unplugged it to see if it did anything. well it had absolutely no affect on the way it ran. so i havent got a clue as to what its in control of. all the wires just go back to the bunch of wires that lead under the dash.

there seems to be very minimal vacuum lines. the only ones that actually go somewhere are from the distributor to the carb, the on from the carb to the choke piece, and i think 1 other. ill take some pics of that tomorrow too. most of them have been plugged or just arent there any more.

YOU ARE DOIN' SO GOOD---SAD THING IS....ARE YOU OUTSIDE?

I WAS OUTSIDE---THEN A CARPORT---NOW A NICE "HEATABLE" 2 CAR GARAGE WHEN I FINALLY ACQUIRED THE PERFECT FEMALE SEVEN YEARS AGO, AND I FINALLY BOUGHT MY (OUR) 1ST HOUSE SEVEN YEARS AGO AFTER 41 YEARS OF NOMADING

I WILL SEND YOU MULTIPLE ALBUMS, MAYBE A BUNCH!

VERIFY THIS INFO !!!!!

THINGS COULD BE SPECIAL ORDERED FROM FACTORY---PEOPLE CHANGE THINGS DUE TO "EASE/ EXPENSE IN ACQUIRING THEM"

YOU SHOULD HAVE "NORMALLY" EITHER A T-176

THESE TRANNYS ARE "NORMALLY COUPLED" WITH A DANA 300 TRANSFER CASE. BOTH ARE ALUMINUM CASESEARLIER TRANNYS (EX. MINE, T-150) ARE CAST IRON CASES

ALL OF THE ABOVE USE 80W-90 GEAR OIL !!!!!!!!!!!

OTHER TRANNYS WILL EZily FIT IN!

LATER YEARS USE A T-4 (4SPD) OR A T-5 (5 SPEED) THE DANA 300 TRANSFER CASE WILL NOT ATTACH TO THESE (UNLESS THEY MAKE AN ADAPTER)THESE 2 USE DEXRON II AUTO TRANNY JUICE

NOTE----THESE 2 SORTA RESEMBLE A SR-4 IN A QUICK GLANCE----MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE OF WHAT YOU HAVE, LOOK FOR NUMBERS ON THE CASE ! ! !

I TRY TO GET AN "EDGE" ON ANY MISSION I MUST UNDERTAKE, RIGHT PEOPLE NEEDING MY AID....ME NEEDING THEIR'S.....I TRY TO COME OUT ON TOP!...BELOW IS MY AUTO SALVAGE YARD "ANGLE"

YOU ARE GONNA HAVE TO HIT A SALVAGE YARD, LOOK THRU THE 80s FORDS, AND FIND THE CORRECT CONNECTOR FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR---GRAB YOU A SPARE "BLUE" (PLASTIC ENTRANCE WIRE HOLDER)(RED OR YELLOW ARE NOT COMPATIBLE) IGNITION MODULE TOO. THEY WILL WANT FOR LITTLE TO NOTHING $$$ FOR IT (TAKE IT HOME AND TEMPORARILY RUN IT TO VERIFY IT WORKS).......THIS WILL MAKE YOU FEEL GOOD LATER, IF YOU HAVE AN IGNITION PROBLEM, IT WILL EITHER CONFIRM OR RULE OUT A IGNITION MODULE PROBLEM, WITHOUT HAVING THE ONE IN QUESTION TESTED

The best resource is a small Ma and Pop type "U Pull It" type auto salvage yard

The ones I go to, I can get a Grocery Store plastic sackful of any and all sensors, off of any vehicle, seats, or even a door, for $10 or less......IT'S ALL IN "TECHNIQUE"

If you'll take a cooler of soft drinks, and strategically offer a round when you are talking to 'em as soon as you arrive

Yes.........Before your venture, and when you return, from the yard with your booty,

prior to the "Settling Up Proceedings"....Generally, "Price Specials" sorta "Happen" in your favor!

Any time you go---or your friends have to go, use the Technique (make your buddy supply, when he goes)

Depending on how many times you show your face, you will never have to pay for the little piddly stuff again, larger items will leave with you for little to no cost!!!

THESE PICS WERE A TRIP I WILLY, MY NEIGHBOR NEEDED A DOOR FOR HIS TRUCK........I GOT IF FOR $10 (AS IF IT WAS FOR ME)....HE BOUGHT THE DRINKS

FINDING OUT THE OWNERS HOBBY HELPS TOO! AT ONE YARD, IF I NEED A BIG ITEM, LIKE A REAR TRUCK AXLE, I'LL TAKE A FEW OLD BOTTLES (HE COLLECTS BOTTLES) EVEN IF THEY ARE BASICALLY ALMOST WORTHLESS TO HIM, HE APPRECIATES THE GESTURE, AND ONCE AGAIN.....I LEAVE WITH A BIG ITEM, AT THE SUPER REDUCED RATE!

I THINK MY ONE PIECE HEADMAN HEDDER WAS $105 AT ADVANCE AUTO 10? YEARS AGO, IT HAS A LIFETIME WARRANTY. I ELIMINATED MOST OF THE MANIFOLD BOLTS, EXCEPT THE COUPLE OF "HAVE TOs" AND REPLACED THEM WITH GRADE 8 STUDS. THIS MADE IT REAL EZ TO "HANG" AND BOLT INTO PLACE....I THINK IT HAS A TAG WELDED ON IT, I MAY BE ABLE TO GET THE NUMBER IF YOU WANT IT

WE'LL DISCUSS THE "USELESS BOX LATER"---WITH A LITTLE MORE INVESTIGATION.

SAMES GOES FOR THE AIR/ FUEL GAUGE

SEND PICS, I'LL VERIFY YOUR VACUUM STUFF

AM I AIDING YOU MUCH AT ALL?....YOU SEEM TO BE DOING REALLY GOOD WITH GETTING YOUR BUDDY SQUARED AWAY!

SEND A PIC OF YOUR MANUALS TOO

THE MEDIC

yeah im stuck outside, laying in the rocks and hoping it doesnt rain and is nice outside on my days off. speaking of, looks like i should get to work! But i remembered a few things so i figured i'd update you.

When i was talking to the P.O.(original owner) he said that it originally had the t-5 in it but he went thru 3 of them in the first year and a half. that the casing would stretch and stop working. everytime it happened he said the warranty covered it, and the last time (in 84, i believe is what he said) they gave up on the t-5 and put the 4 speed in it, so it should be whatever 4 speed tranny they used in 84 which according to the novak links its the t-4. but ill still take some pics of the casting numbers to double check.

im almost positive its got the dana 300 t-case, but ill take some pics of that too for comparison. looks like ive got tons of pictures to take today, so off i go. will be back later today to update!

well i was out there for 45 mins working on putting in the floor when it started to rain. so ive been sitting inside twiddling thumbs and researching since. this sucks! on my day off its gonna rain.

sure if you dont mind ill take the number for the header. since ill have to do some work there anyway. you've definately been a big help! thanks alot!

still been thinking of that O2 sensor idea you had mentioned in the links. will probably do that when i redo the exhaust. do you have a parts list for that job? would greatly help.

still no luck with the wiring, had only gotten started on the floor when the clouds decided to start leaking all over the place. once its back in place im gonna do some bed liner. cant remember if i already mentioned it or not. i tend to forget little stuff like that.

hopefully itll clear up before it gets too late, or its better tomorrow. weather channel says tomorrows gonna be nice, but what do they know? it seems like they just draw a ticket out of the hat and read it each day for the weather.

its funny you mention about the junkyard tips. i just found out last week theres a junkyard tucked in the back of a housing development about 5 miles from my house. lived here all my life and never even heard of it. and when i drove past it for the first time i saw several jeeps just from the front. Hopefully ill be able to find the connector i need, or anything else ill need in the near future. for how close it is i might start going there before i go to the parts store, see if i can get it for cheaper. grab the few things you mentioned. make some small talk see what they like and bring some goodies next time i go. smart man you are!

PLUGS LOOK FANTASTIC

HERE'S AN OLD PIC OF WHAT I HAVE--I MAYBE HAVE ACQUIRED 5 OTHER ONES SINCE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

IN CASE YOU HAVE NOT NOTICED, I HAVE CHRONIC "CRS"

I HATE HUNTING AND PECKING SO MUCH, I MAKE MANY TYPO MISTAKES

I WANT TO GIVE YOU MEGA INFO---STUFF NO ONE GAVE ME, I HAD TO GO TO THE SCHOOL OF HARD KNOCKS AND HAVE YET TO GET A DIPLOMA......THE "LINKING" KEEPS THE PECKING DOWN ON MY END

THIS IS MY O2 INFO CENTER FOR WHAT I HAVE DONE TO MINE....IN FACT SOMEONE SHOWED ME THIS LONG AGO, I WAS INTERESTED BUT HAD NO CLUE HOW TO GET TO IT.

I WAS 100% NON-CYBER UNTIL I BROKE MY FOOT AT WORK (IMMA SERVICE PLUMBER) AND HAD MANY COMPLICATIONS WITH IT. I WAS LAID UP BEGINNING 19 DEC 08 FOR QUITE SOME TIME. MY SISTER AND FRIENDS HELPED ME ALONG IN FIGURING OUT THIS TV-LIKE BEAST.

MY 1ST QUESTION HERE, AT 2CAR, WAS ASKING ABOUT HOW TO FIND THE SITE I'M ABOUT TO GIVE YOU.......AS I WAITED WEEKS AND WEEKS (THEN A FEW MONTHS), ASKING DIFFERENT WAYS, SUBMITTING MULTIPLE TIMES FOR A "FREE ANSWER"......I NOTICED HOW THE CJs GOT "ONE LINER" NOT VERY HELPFUL ANSWERS....I MADE THAT MY CRUSADE, TO AID THE CJs (AND OTHERS)....I FOUND I COULD ANSWER TOO! I ANSWERED FOR FREE, MAYBE 700 QUESTIONS.

THEN I SORTA WAS "TRANSFERRED FROM NOBODY" TO "EXPERT" (WITH SOME COMPENSATION), I NEVER REQUESTED/ APPLIED FOR THIS UPGRADE! I WAS UPGRADED WHEN THE SITE GOT REMODELED. I THINK THIS IS COOL! I'VE BEEN A PLUMBER SINCE 1989, AFTER SEVERAL NOTHING JOBS, FRESH OUT OF THE ARMY......NOW AFTER DRAWING WORKERS COMP, BEING RELEASED, DRAWING UNEMPLOYMENT, AND STILL NO PLUMBING JOB AVAILABLE TO ME.....I NOW HAVE STARTED WORKING PART-TIME AT ADVANCE AUTO (THE DANG REGISTER LEARNING IS KILLING ME!)

I WAS TUNING MY CARB, WHILE UNABLE TO DRIVE! I STARTED OUT WITH THE VOLTMETER ONLY, THEN FOUND, THE AIR/ FUEL GAUGE WAS EZier TO SEE THE RESULTS---THE 1ST AIR/ FUEL WAS REALLY CHEAP AND CRAPPY THE 2ND ONE WAS BETTER......THEY MAKE HIGH DOLLAR ONES TOO! GOTTA REMEMBER WHILE I WAS MESSING WITH THIS, MY BUDDIES WERE DRIVING ME AROUND/ DOING MY TESTING, AND I WAS IN A CAST AND ON CRUTCHES/ WHEEL CHAIR. I DID ALL OF MY WELDING AT MY PALS SHOP, LAYING ON THE FLOOR WITH MR. CAST ON. LEANED ON THE CRUTCHES TO CHANGE MY JETS



I JUST LOCATED THE HEADER TAG---HAS "HEDMAN HEDDERS" AND MADE IN USA, I SAW NOTHING ELSE STAMPED ANYWHERE. IF ADVANCE CANNOT FIND IT (BEEN 10 YEARS OR SO) HEDMAN SURELY WILL GIVE YOU THE INFO AND A DISTRIBUTOR....I WILL TAKE MORE PICS OF IT IF YOU WANT ME TO.

http://www.hedman.com/

IF I GET SOME FREE TIME REAL SOON, I'LL TRY TO MAKE YOUR WIRING FOR YOUR EXTERIOR LIGHTS EZier TO FIGURE OUT

KEEP THE INFO FLOWING---I NEED TO LOCATE YOU EMAIL IN MY MESS, TO SEND MORE ALBUMS

THE MEDIC

alright! update time yet again. Got the floor all done this morning. did a little inspecting on the trans/t-case. got some pictures for ya. The trans had a borg-warner logo on the driver side, and a number printed on the other side of "35" its a 4 speed. couldnt remember if thats already been mentioned or not. but that narrows it down the the T4 or the SR4. solved the mystery, its a Dana 300 t-case. got some pics to show it. says it right on it! had to wire brush through the grease to get down to it, same with the markings on the tranny. there may be more on the trans, but these were the only 2 that i could find without spending plenty of time cleaning it up. i vaguely saw these ones and cleaned it up to clarify them. you'll see below.

drained the fluid (trans), than refilled it with the 80-90W gear oil. so that will be good for now. sure was a real PIA to get the fill/drain plus loose. Do you know how to drain the t-case? i was looking and only saw 1 plug, im assuming the fill plug, but not a drain one. it appears to have a bottom pan that comes off similar to automatic transmissions. but thats going to be a big PIA. would have to drop the skid plate to do that. Diff's are still on the list too.

the floors actually looking pretty good. considering it started off as a flat detour sign. ive created a motto for this project, "it doesnt have to look good, its only got to work." this explains one of the pics im gonna post. i made brackets to help hold the floor in place. in the shape of an L and i riveted it on to body thru the outside. tough to explain but youll see the picture.

got all your albums, still working on looking through them.

I LIKE!!!

READ THE BEGINNING OF THIS---TALKS OF "FORD" OVAL ON TOP OF SR-4----AND OTHER WAYS TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN THEM....THEY ARE REALLY SIMILAR.

REMEMBER THE T-4 AND T-5 USE DEXRON II AUTO TRANNY JUICE----DON'T RELY ON ME TOTALLY YOU VERIFY THIS TOO!

http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/borg-warner-sr4/

AS FAR AS A DRAIN ON THE DANA 300

LOOK THRU HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SKID PLATE, THERE SHOULD BE A PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE COVER

JUST A NOTE--IN CASE YOU DO PULL THE SKID PLATE FOR SOME REASON, YOU MUST SUPPORT THE FLAT PORTION OF THE "BELL HOUSING" WITH A BLOCK OF WOOD (AGAINST THE ALUMINUM) A JACK OR JACK STAND AGAINST IT...TAKE OUT ALL OF THE SLACK WITH THE JACK OR SHIMS

FAILURE TO SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE/TRANNY/TRANSFER CASE WILL RESULT IN BREAKING SOMETHING ON YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM AS THE REAR LOWERS DOWN....MIGHT BE THE PIPE/ FLANGE/ MANIFOLD.....OTHER CRAP ON THE FIREWALL COULD BE CRUNCHED BY THE VALVE COVER.

DIMMER?....SEE MY ANSWER HERE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1973-ford-f-350-headlights

BETTER GET A HANDLE ON THAT RUST BELOW THE DOOR---I SORTA LET MINE GET OUTTA HAND---I'M GETTING CLOSE TO JUMPING ON IT (I THINK I FINALLY GOT MY TRANNY STRAIGHT, THE RUST HOLES ARE NEXT.

I HAVE ALREADY GROUND OUT THE RUST AND TREATED THE METAL WITH RUST INHIBITOR.....NEXT WILL BE FIBERGLASS ON THE INSIDE AND BONDO ON THE OUTSIDE....I STILL HAVE SOME LEFTOVER PAINT FROM MY PAINT JOB 8 YEARS AGO.....I'M ASHAMED TO SHOW MY PICS OF HOW I HAVE LET MY BUDDY DOWN, THIS IS AFTER I GROUND OUT EVERY FLAKE OF RUST

I JUST RE-INSTALLED THE TRANNY AND TRANFER CASE FOR THE 7TH TIME. TEST DRIVE VERIFIES THAT 2ND-3RD SYNCRONIZER WAS BAD. I BUILT IT WITH ALL NEW INNARDS ABOUT A YEAR AGO---2ND GEAR NEVER SHIFTED RIGHT (IT WOULD GO, BUT REAL NOISY). PRETTY MUCH I PULLED IT OVER AND OVER WITH A TRANSMISSION MAN WATCHING OVER ME. USING "THIS AND THAT" LITTLE PART FROM THE COMPANY I GOT THE KIT FROM DID NOT FIX IT. THEY DID FINALLY SEND THE WHOLE SYNCRONIZER, IT WAS FROM A DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER, AND HAD NO PLAY BETWEEN THE SLEEVE AND THE HUB. I DROVE IT ABOUT FIVE MILE---UP-SHIFTING AND DOWN-SHIFTING.........SOUNDS AND FEELS AS GOOD AS IT SHOULD HAVE THE FIRST TIME I INSTALLED IT!

I'M SO GLAD I CALLED THE COMPANY BACK, IN THE BEGINNING AND HAD MY DILEMMA PUT "ON RECORD".

KEEP ME POSTED--YOUR PICS ARE GREAT--ANYONE FOLLOWING YOUR THREAD WILL SEE WHAT MOTIVATION IS ALL ABOUT

DID YOU GET A MILLION ALBUMS?

THE MEDIC

according to the links youve posted one of the differences is the shift pattern. and according to them, mine would be a T4. it shows the SR4 has reverse to the left and forward, where mine is to the right and back. There seems to be debate on what fluid is used in the T4/T5, ive searched it a bit. the story seems to be that Borg-warner originally suggested using 80-90W gear oil but they further studied it after releasing them, and somewhere around '85 released that they found that dexronII ATF would coat the entire inside better, and cause less stress in cold weather conditions than the gear oil did. but they didnt find a significant difference in warm weather conditions. i found a bit more but nothing really worth mentioning, just a list of similarities between using gear oil or ATF. Than of course theres the guys who do their own combination; half ATF/half gear oil, Mixtures of gear oil with 5W-30 motor oil, or even running strictly 10w-40 motor oil in it, etc. I think ill just leave the gear oil in there since its fresh. maybe before next winter ill switch it over to the ATF for winter purposes than leave it.

Will lok further into the drain hole on the t-case. That seems to have a consistant claim of strictly gear oil in the Dana 300. My newer NP231 t-case on my '88 takes ATF, and the AX15 i swapped in it takes gear oil.

i dont see any progress happening this weekend, ive got work both days, maybe tomorrow morning ill get up early and do the t-case, but thats about it. will keep you posted as i work.

well i found the drain plug like you mentioned. pulled the plug and drained it. still had the factory filled AMC special fluid that from what ive researched is a gear oil/ATF mix. brownish tint, smells like ass. filled it back up with the gear oil, now its good to go. removed both diff covers, and cleaned them up and repainted them. theyre drying overnight, and will be put back on tomorrow before i have to work.

Fixed the wiring issue with the front turn signals/running lamps. its actually really stupid what the problem is. i had ordered entire new front turn signal lamp assembly's. the problem is that it was wired backwards from the factory; so that when the running lights came on it was the brighter filament, and the turn signal would flash the less bright filament which you could only notice if you looked closely. so to keep the factory like connector, i cut them between the lamp and the connector and wired them to the opposite wire to switch it. (red to black, and black to red)

The rear AMC 20 axle has torx head bolts that held the diff cover on, which are fine...except they havent been moved in almost 30 years. so i went to the local hardware store and got regular hex head bolts to replace them with. i got a bit worried as i tried breaking them free, some had almost stripped out completely. i got lucky that they all came loose.

ran a line of caulk over where my new floor overlaps on the original metal to keep as much water out as possible.

will comtinue working on it tomorrow! and keep ya posted.

thought you might like this picture i found

THANKS FOR THE WILLY PIC!

MY TRANNY MAN (I USE HIM WITH AUTOMATICS) SAYS HE'S SEEN MORE T-4s AND T-5s TORN UP THAN ANY OTHER MANUAL TRANNY...HE RECOMMENDS EITHER STRIGHT 80W-90 OR 85W-90---OR EVEN A MIX OF THE TWO WITH 50% OR LESS DEXRON MIXED WITH IT. HE SAYS THE DEXRON ALONE DOES NOT LUBRICATE WELL ENOUGH AFTER IT GETS HOT.

I RECKON I SHOULDA AIDED YOU WITH THIS----OR YOU SHOULDA ASKED!!! SEE MY ANSWER ON OCTOBER 16th ON THIS POST---THIS IS THE BESTUST WAY TO REMOVE 'EM---SLING 'EM IN THE WOODS AND REPLACE WITH GRADE 5 OR 8 HEX BOLTS...THE WHOLE JEEP IS FASTENED TOGETHER WITH THEM, I THINK SOMEONE IN THE COMPANY HAD "INTEREST" IN A TORX MANUFACTURER.....MOST OF MINE HAVE BEEN REPLACED

THE MEDIC

FORGOT THE LINK!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2008-saturn-outlook-remove-rr-brake-rotor-outlook-necessary-torx-retainer-same-o

THE MEDIC

cool, thanks for the confirmation. i filled both the tranny and t-case with the 80-90W gear oil, maybe instead of completely draining it when the winter comes around ill drain just a bit and top it off with the ATF. ill have to remember that method for the torx bolts in future use. lucked out today.

i did notice that my steering box is leaking a semi decent amount. its got a 6 inch round area in the rocks thats covered in the power steering fluid. looks like the seal right where the sttering shaft goes into the box. will snap some pictures tomorrow. still havent done anything with the lock lug nuts, been procrastinating it because i know the brakes is where its going to get expensive. but ill keep the motto in mind, "If it ain't broke, than don't fix it!"

Im sure the peugeot BA10/5 is one tranny that definately gets trashed more than the t4/5's. thats what was in my '88 jeep. the local jeep shop, which specializes in trannys, says that there such pieces o' crap that he refuses to work on them or order any parts for them. so i upgraded to the AX-15. was a fairly simple swap. the most extensive part was cracking open the t-case and switching the input shaft. had a different spline count. ill post ya some pics from the swap.

well its official. ive completed the entire fluid change on the vehicle (minus the brake fluid which is next) tranny, t-case, and diffs are now good to go! the diffs went smoothly hardest part was breaking loose the fill plugs on both front and rear. and pumping that gear oil while laying on my back sure is exhausting. BUT its all done.

NEXT: Get the lock lugs off, brakes, exhaust, herculiner on the entire inside floor, put seats back in, install lift springs, hit the junkyard see what i can find for misc. parts i need, and whatever else i find along the way. at least its kind of starting to look like a jeep again. good thing thursday is pay day!

pic 1: front diff ready for fluid
pic 2: rear diff cover iinstalled with new hardware. think it looks nice with the black paint.
pic 3,4,5: steering box leak points from different angles'
pic 6: front turn signal assembly rewired to work right
pic 7: looks like it could use a front bumper...eventually
pic 8: rust/rot on windshield frame...to be replaced eventually
pic 9: rear view
pic 10: floor with dried caulking

whattaya think of the progress?

IN CJ #4, I INSTALLED A BENCH SEAT UP FRONT OUT OF A SMALL TRUCK I CAME ACROSS IN THE SALVAGE YARD

I HAD TO IMPROVISE SOME BRACKETS (I DON'T REMEMBER WHAT IT CAME OUT OF) THE SEAT DID TILT FORWARD AND PASSENGERS IN THE REAR WERE ABLE TO GET IN AND OUT, MY NERF BAR DID HELP OUT. IT WAS BLACK AND REALLY LOOKED FACTORY INSTALLED. WE EVEN MADE A DRAWER THE ALMOST FULL WIDTH, THAT PULLED OUT UNDER IT, FOR STORAGE. I WISH I HAD TAKEN PICS WAY BACK THEN

BEST OF ALL, YOU COULD SQUEEZE A FEMALE UP CLOSE TO YOU. I REMEMBER WATCHING AN EPISODE OF THE "SIX MILLION DOLLAR MAN", WAY BACK THERE WHEN I WAS IN JUNIOR HIGH, WHERE HE DROVE UP IN A CJ WITH A BENCH SEAT. I'VE ALWAYS WANTED A JEEP FOREVER AND I REALLY PAID CLOSE ATTENTION TO ANY I SAW ANYWHERE!

I LIKED THE "A-TEAM" SORTA AT 1ST, BUT COULD NOT BEAR TO WATCH THEM DESTROY JEEP AFTER JEEP ON THE SHOW...I ALWAYS WANTED TO WRITE A LETTER TO THE SHOW AND ASK IF THEY COULD JUST CUT ONE "JEEP DESTRUCTION SCENE" AND JUST LET ME HAVE THE "SACRIFICIAL JEEP", I WOULD LOVE IT AND HUG IT AND SQUEEZE IT!....I NEVER GOT UP THE NERVE TO TRY IT, WHEN I WAS A YOUNGIN. I WOULD DO IT NOW! I LEARNED HOW TO USE MY PAIR WHEN I WAS IN 1ST RANGER BATTALION!

YOU ARE DEFINITELY DOIN' YOUR BABY RIGHT! I ENJOY SEEING YOUR PROGRESS EACH TIME YOU POST, OTHERS WHO READ THRU THEM WILL BENEFIT TOO.

DID YOU LOOK THRU MY ALBUMS, PARTICULARLY "STEERING GEAR" AND SEE THE BRACE I MADE TO KEEP THE FRAME FROM TWISTING?

"PURPLE POWER", SPRAYED ON WITH A PUMP UP SPRAYER, SIT 10 MIN, THEN BLAST OFF AT THE CAR WASH, WILL GET RID OF MOST OF THAT OIL AND GREASE EVERYWHERE

A STEAM CLEANER WOULD KNOCK IT OFF FAST TOO, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO ONE.....MY WIFE BOUGHT A LITTLE TEA KETTLE LIKE VERSION TO CLEAN BATHROOM TILE AND OTHER STUFF. I FOUND IT'S A LITTLE SLOW, BUT STARTING AT THE TOP AND WORKING DOWN, IT WILL TAKE IT OFF AS GOOD AS AN INDUSTRIAL MODEL WILL. SURPRISINGLY THE LITTLE POT WILL LAST A GOOD WHILE BEFORE IT HAS TO BE REFILLED WITH WATER.

YOU MUST LOSE THOSE GHETTO WIPERS!!!!!

THE CORRECT ONES ARE 11 INCH....AFTER YOU GET THE RIGHT FIXTURE (THEY SORTA ROTATE ON) YOU CAN NEXT TIME BUY A 22 INCH BLADE ONLY, CUT IT IN HALF TO "REFILL" THE HOLDER (SOON YOU WILL FIND THE TYPE THAT WILL SLIDE IN CORRECTLY).

KEEP POSTING, I AND SEVERAL OTHERS LIKE TO SEE YOUR PROGRESS

YOU ALSO NEED TO GET A GARAGE, IN MY PICS, MY LAMINATED LARGE SCALE '79 WIRING DIAGRAM HANGS ON THE SIDE OF THE WALL LOCKER, MY "CASTERIZED" OFFICE CHAIR!, AND THE SIGN WIFEY BOUGHT ME TO HANG ON THE DOOR INTO THE HOUSE......LAST BUT NOT LEAST, LOOK AT HOW YOU CAN JUST CLOSE THE DOOR AND BE OUT OF THE WEATHER! IT WAS NOT UNTIL 6 YEARS AGO THAT I GOT THIS LUXURY MYSELF....I HAVE TO FEUD WITH THE WIFE TO USE HER SIDE TO WORK ON MR. JEEP AND KEEP WILLY SAFE AND DRY OUT OF THE WEATHER AT THE SAME TIME

THE MEDIC

yeah a garage would definately make this so much better. i could be out there working on it now!! wouldnt that be nice. plan on cleaning up the steering box. did finally get through seeing all of the albums you sent me. what do you mean by the brace stopping the frame from twisting? a buddy of mine is a certified mechanic. works for the military so he's legit certified in everything. he hasnt even seen this jeep other than by pictures yet and hes glad to know im working alone when it comes to the actual physical work part. hes replaced some seals on my 88 jeep steering box and he says it looks like its the same issue with this one.

had a little issue with that jeep today... see if you have any idea with it.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1988-jeep-yj-bucking-while-driving

plan on getting back out there tomorrow morning, weather should be a good day and thursday is my day off! so plenty of work should get done over the next 2 days. as long as my wallet can keep up with it.

well i went to the junkyard today, only had 1 jeep (yj wrangler) so most of what i was hoping for was a bust. But as i searched the junkyard i found plenty of mid 90's cherokees with the 242 I6 motor so i had looked at their distributor pickup connectors and VOILA! there it was. not identical, but 3 wires and a good connector piece. so i snapped it off gave the guy a buck and was on my way. came home, installed it, and it started up alot faster than how it was wired before this. not much accomplished, but it was an important fix. Got to call the day early, such a shame since its absolutely beautiful out. but time to go to work. And i have off all day tomorrow, so maybe ill stop and get a can of that truck bed liner tonight after work and start with that tomorrow since it should be nice enough out for it to dry. thats all for now!

and thanks for your help with my other jeep. i never even thought of that. it makes sense that it would run fine for a few minutes before the float had emptied enough for it to start acting like that.

well i surely made a mess today. went out and got the herculiner kit last night and tackled that today, its some rough stuff on the hands. nearly impossible to get off. but it came out real nice. that was all for today. nothing tomorrow, have to work all day. but maybe this weekend ill get those wheel locks off. going to try to use the craftsman warranty to get them off. ill be back again to update over the weekend.

I HATE WEARING THEM RUBBER GLOVES TOO! I HATE MY HANDS TO GET SWEATY INSIDE OF THEM.

SOON I WILL HAVE THE NEED TO WEAR THEM WHEN I FIBERGLASS THE BACK SIDES OF WHERE THE RUST EAT (ATE) OUT UNDER MY DRIVER'S DOOR. IN MY PIC (FURTHER BACK), I JUST HAD GROUND IT OUT, IT DID NOT APPEAR AS BAD AS IT REALLY WAS, THE RUST AND PAINT SORTA HID THE ACTUAL EXTENT OF THE RUST DAMAGE. AFTER I GOT IT TO "BARE METAL" I SPRAYED IT WELL WITH "RUST TRANSFORMER" TO HOPEFULLY KILL THE RUST ACTION TILL I CAN GET IT GLASSED AND BONDO-ED.....MAYBE MY NEXT DAY OFF.

IT IS LOOKIN' REALLY NICE!

SO.......THE WRANGLER IS NOT STARVING FOR FUEL NOW? THE REGULATOR NUMBERS DON'T NECESSARILY "JIVE" WITH THE ACTUAL PRESSURE THAT MAKES IT THRU THEM (HENCE THE LITTLE FUEL GAUGE I INSTALLED BETWEEN IT AND MY CARB, I TRUST THE GAUGE MORE THAN THE REG SETTINGS)

JUST SOME INFO THAT MIGHT BE GOOD TO KNOW----IMMA A PLUMBER (SERVICE IS MY THING, STARTED IN 1989) I CANNOT FIND A LOCAL PLUMBER TO HIRE ME, IN THE 'BAMA ECONOMIC SYSTEM WE HAVE NOW...I WAS OUT WITH A BROKEN FOOT (DONE AT WORK) WITH COMPLICATIONS, MY EMPLOYER LAID ME OFF, SOON AS I GOT OFF OF THE 1.5 YEARS OF WORKERS COMP (RELEASED BY DOC) I WENT ON UNEMPLOYMENT TILL IT WAS ALMOST EXHAUSTED. I HAVE SINCE GOTTEN A PART-TIME JOB WITH "ADVANCE AUTO", EVEN THOUGH PAY IS ABOUT 1/3 WHAT I GOT PLUMBING, IT IS A "CLEAN, SORTA EZ JOB", I LIKE DEALING WITH PEOPLE, THE CASH REGISTER IS A TRIP TO ATTEMPT TO LEARN ALL THE PROCEDURES.

THE "UPS" OF THIS IS I CAN LEARN SOME STUFF ABOUT NEWER VEHICLES, I GET A 20% DISCOUNT---FOUND OUT A FEW THINGS THAT WILL HELP ANYONE.....THEY WILL TAKE IN "USED MOTOR OIL" (SAVES TIME DUMPING IT AT THE LANDFILL COLLECTION POINT) AND FOR US "CHEAPSKATES" THEY SELL "GOOD" USED BATTERIES FOR ABOUT $34 (COUPLED WITH MY 20%, IT WILL HELP WHEN IN A BIND) THEY ALSO SELL "OLD-NEW BATTERIES" (ON SHELF OVER A YEAR) AT DISCOUNT PRICES (WARRANTY UNKNOWN AT THIS POINT).......INFO THAT IS NOT REALLY ADVERTISED, THOUGHT IT MIGHT HELP

THE MEDIC

ok so i found a way to get those lock nuts off without ordering anything. took my 4 way lug wrench and found one of those that fit snug over them, gave it a whack or 2 with a hammer and turned em loose. just enough to free them than i shimmied the wrench back and forth to work its way off the lug nut. went all the way around and broke them all loose. now that ive got that done i jacked up the rear, and removed my rear pass. side tire. not that it makes a significant difference on which side, but im having trouble removing this black cover. looks like a dust cover of some type. my haynes manual isnt any help with it, only says to remove it. is there a special trick to this that im oblivious to? it looks like that has to come off first before the drum can come off. so until i get this off im stuck where i am. any ideas?

scratch that. got it done. rear brakes were in like new condition, so ill leave them be. wheel cylinders are still good. bled the brakes and now theyre good to go! so much better looking than i had expected. gonna check out the front brakes probably tomorrow and bleed them just to be safe.

next steps: put seats back in, fix exhaust, than register/insure/ and inspect. should be fun!

BEEN LOOKIN' TO SEE IF EVERYTHING'S GOOD TO GO

YOU GOT IT GOING SO WELL, I SORTA FEEL LEFT OUT, I DIDN'T EVEN GET A CHANCE TO ANSWER ABOUT THE BRAKE DRUM!

KEEP IT GOING, I'M SORTA IMPRESSED BY YOUR FORTITUDE

ARE YOU IMPRESSED WITH THE O2 SENSOR JETTING/ TUNING METHOD?

THE PICS ARE MY M-416 AND MY GRANDSON, ALTHOUGH IT IS NEWER THAN THE WW II BANTAM TRAILER (ROUND FENDERS), THE "HALF HEXAGON" M-416 FENDERS SORTA GO ALONG WITH "WILLY'S" FRONT FENDERS....I'M THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS TO BE PLEASED ANYWAY!

THE MEDIC

well shes almost ready... keyword being almost. i got the exhaust done over the weekend. sounds nice. took it for another drive the other day. drove like a champ. definately have to fine tune the carb, idle speed sand figure out the issue with the choke.

as i was giving it a lookover the other day i noticed how terrible the condition of the windshield frame is. its almost rotted through around the entire bottom, just abover where it mounts to the body. So i spent about 20 minutes on the trusty craigslist and found a windshield frame 10 minuted from home. went and picked it up today. the frame is in PERFECT condition but the glass it shattered. but thats alright cuz the glass thats on the jeep is good so ill just swap them. and while ill have the glass out of the frame ill give it some fresh paint and do some rust preventative work.ive heard that if you put paint such as rustoleum in the inside than turn the frame every which way itll coat the inside pretty nice. i might give that a shot. and i found some good directions for switching the glass. any pointers on this step?

something else i thought of after i posted the last one. the guy i bought the windshield frame off of also has hard doors for sale. theyre rough tho. he says the track is messed up and they only go down a few inches before it wont turn anymore. any idea what causes that, and how hard/expensive it would be to fix or replace?

YES--I HAVE DONE THIS MANY TIMES---IT WOULD BE BEST IF I DID SOME PHONE COMMO TO EXPLAIN....STILL GOT MY NUMBER? OR WANT ME TO EMAIL IT AGAIN...I DO NOT HAVE TO WORK TOMORROW

THE MEDIC

all of the glass removal was done while we were on the phone. in the one pic you can see what i meant by prying in the top corners, and than adding screwdrivers and pry bars all across the top. as simple as one small push on each corner and the center one it just dropped right down out of the frame. well of course with plenty of window cleaner i used as a lubricant between the frame and the seal. that was the first thing i found in a spray bottle and figured it would work. ill have to try that method on getting the other glass out. although i might just get a new windshield because of the chips in it shown in the last 2 pics. one on each side of the glass.

it just wouldnt go through with all the pictures attached so heres the rest of them

THAT SURE DOES LOOK A LOT EZer THAN THE WAY I HAVE BEEN DOING IT!!!

KEEP THE UPDATES COMING---I KNOW I WAS PROBABLY BORING ON THE PHONE, BUT I DO ENJOY TALKING TO SOMEONE WHO IS NOT "JEEP IGNORANT"

I'LL BE HAPPY TO SEE IT WHEN IT'S ROAD TRIP READY!

THE MEDIC

yeah it was really simple. starting at the top on the corners, putting 2 pry points on each side than one in the center and working each way so that none of the seal was still pushing tight on the frame, plus plenty of the window cleaner sprays between the seal and frame. than once they were all in there i gave the corners and center pry points all a small push down and it fell right out. than did the same on the bottom of it, of course that was alot easier. the bottom was more of just breaking the seal off the frame for how long its been on there.

IF I REMEMBER WELL ENOUGH--THIS ARE PICS OF THE CONSOLE (20MM AMMO CAN W/ LOCK AND CUSHION) MY CONVEX MIRROR (AFTERMARKET STAINLESS) REMOVABLE CANOE/ LUMBER/ PIPE RACK/ STEERING GEAR BRACE (MODIFIED ANGLE IRON) THIS REMOVES PLAY FROM THE FRAME TWISTING---STORAGE BOX MY REAR SEAT SITS ON TOP OF (ABOUT A 4" SEAT LIFT)

THEY ALL WOULDN'T FIT THE 1ST TIME

THE MEDIC

well i started looking at that windshield frame and realized its gonna need some parts swapping. the wiper linkage is broken for the pass. side wiper blade, and the wiper motor doesnt work. so ill be pulling that out of the old frame and swapping that over before i install it. plus paint and installation of new glass. but im unsure of how the wiper linkage comes off, have you done this before? ill attach pics to show you where i need to disconnect the linkage.

pic 1: broken pass side linkage
pic 2: screwdriver is pointing to the piece that holds the linkage to go through to the outside to control the wiper blade. any idea how this disconnects?

SORTA LOOKS LIKE THE CLIP IS MISSING----WILL IT PULL APART?

MINE ARE SORTA FOLDED OVER SPRING STEEL---YOU PULL IT OPEN LIKE A TACO--THEN SLIDE IT OFF

IT'S 22:30 HERE--I'VE BEEN REALLY BUSY TODAY--CHORES/ WORK/ REPLACE VALVE STEM ON MR. JEEP (HAD FLAT BEFORE I GOT IN HIM TO GO TO WORK, VALVE STEM SORTA BROKE IN HALF)

I'D ALMOST BET YOU JUST "WENT FOR IT" AND THE WIPER TASK IS DONE!

THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE YOU ON INSTALLATION IS---MAKE SURE NOTHING IS BENT (EVEN SLIGHTLY) WHAT WILL HAPPEN IS WHERE THE "PIVOT SHAFT" GOES THRU THE SHEET METAL FRAME.....THE PIVOT SHAFT ASSEMBLY WILL SORTA "TWIST OR ROCK" IN THE THIN METAL OF THE WINDSHIELD FRAME----THE METAL WILL FATIGUE---IT WILL EVENTUALLY "TEAR" AROUND THE PIVOT----OR THE LINKAGES WILL SUDDENLY BEND OR CRIMP OVER, WHEN THIS HAPPENS, THE PIVOTS WILL BIND THEN BEND FRAME AROUND IT......THIS WILL KINDA MAKE THE FRAME LOOK LIKE A CHAMELEON EYE BALL----THE METAL WILL BE SO FATIGUED, TAPPING IT BACK IN PLACE WILL ONLY RESULT IN A FEW MINUTES OF OPERATION---THEN ANOTHER CHAMELEON EYE BALL!

YES YOU WILL BE WAY OFF---AND IT WILL POUR RAIN 24 HOURS STRAIGHT

I ALWAYS USE "RAIN-X"---KEEP THE WIPING TO A MINIMUM

I SORTA KNOW THIS 1ST HAND, AND FROM OTHER PEOPLES JEEPS

WHEN I DEVELOPED THE LIZARD EYE BALLS AND TEARS---I LOCATED ANOTHER RUSTY WORTHLESS FRAME. RUSTED TERRIBLY AROUND THE HINGES

USING THE DONOR FRAME, I CUT OUT THE PIVOT HOLES IN A "DECORATIVE FASHION", THEN ENLARGED MY OLD HOLES, AND I RIVETED THEM OVER THE SCREWED UP HOLES (YOU MIGHT WANNA SAVE YOUR OLD ONES, FOR FUTURE USE...IF NEED BE!

LOOK AT HOW I DID MINE IN ORDER TO NOT BUY THE WHOLE WINDSHIELD FRAME! MAY BE HARD TO SEE, I PAINTED THEM THE SAME COLOR, I INSTALLED BOTH TO KEEP IT SYMMETRICAL.....THE DRIVERS SIDE WAS MY PROBLEM CHILD

ONE LAST BIT OF ADVICE.......NEVER STICK YOUR FINGERS IN THE OVAL HOLES...WHILE THE WIPERS ARE RUNNING OR MESSING UP.....DON'T EVEN ASK ABOUT THE STITCHES OR HOW LONG I SCREAMED LIKE A LITTLE GIRL, BEFORE AND AFTER I GOT 'EM OUT OF THE HOLE.

THE MEDIC

wow, first time actually looking thru that link with an intended purpose and that thing surely is nice. any idea what this is based off of and if i can order a paper version of it? if your unsure dont worry about researching it, ill do it another night. definately busts my idea of just pulling and ripping. thats the natural mindset of a teenager, but for some odd reason my brain tells me not to do that. so instead i go inside and look through my book and check the time and realize that ive got 20 minutes to get to work. Lol. So i hadnt gotten very far today, i did pull down the windshield frame off the jeep to compare to. but didnt do much with it. all visual work today. and work all day tomorrow, than road trip tomorrow night and saturday. ill come back with tons of pictures, going to hit a junkyard with TONS of jeeps in there. mostly older cj5's & 7's. even about a dozen of the old mail style cj's. you'd be in heaven!

since you mention it, i do recall one lizard eye ball, might reinforce both though since i have it off and am already doing some work to it. but opposite yours, where the pass. side is the problem. i could use any scrap metal layin around to cover them with, i doubt ill have enough good metal from the old frame to even scrap it! its REALLY bad. will take pics to show you as i work it off of there.

had a slight issue with one of those torx head bolts that held the windshield to the inside of the truck. so i went at it with my drill and drilled the head off so it would let go. but the soonest any more work will get done is saturday evening, or sunday.

THAT LINK IS ACTUALLY SCANNED COPIES OF THE AMC JEEP SERVICE MANUALS AND OTHER MANUALS TOO

I HAVE THE 1979 PAPER MANUAL--IT'S ABOUT THE SIZE OF A PHONE-BOOK, AND 2+ INCHES THICK....IT IS BY FAR THE BEST MANUAL I OWN, I WISH I HAD TAKEN CARE OF IT SINCE 1983. IT SHOWS HOW TO TEST EVERYTHING... UNFORTUNATELY THE LINK'S SCANS BLURS THE DIAGRAMS, BUT BEGGARS CAN'T BE CHOOSERS!!! IF YOU NEED SOMETHING BETTER QUALITY, IF IT'S IN MY MANUAL, I CAN MAYBE EMAIL YOU A BETTER PAGE FROM MINE

I DON'T KNOW IF I SENT THIS--TOO LAZY TO GO BACK AND LOOK--EZer TO SEND IT AGAIN...SEE OCTOBER 16TH IN THIS POST---THIS IS "POOR MAN'S IMPACT WRENCHING"...A REAL IMPACT WILL STRIP OR BREAK STUFF!!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2008-saturn-outlook-remove-rr-brake-rotor-outlook-necessary-torx-retainer-same-o

As I remove these EVIL fasteners, I replace them with "REAL" hex headed bolts.....Even the stainless ones on my windshield hinges, etc. Before I install aftermarket stuff that comes with these pathetic fasteners, THE Torx stuff, gets thrown across the woods, real hex is installed instead!

THE MEDIC

i do remember you posting that link before, good thing you reposted it because i was trying to remember how you had it set up, but couldnt find the link again. drilling it out works too, when in desperate situations.

hit the junkyard today, and got some more stuff. got some really neat pics, think youll be impressed with my findings. theres a ROUGH loooking cj5 that im falling in love with more and more each time i go there. but its getting worse and worse.

pic 1&2: how many postal jeeps can you spot?
pic 3,4,5: OLD willys overland
pic 6,7: OLDDDD willys, im sure your more familiar with the style than i am. im thinking that its a CJ3A?? im not sure, havent done squat with them before