Heater not working?

First thing I would like you to check is iafter runing it for a while feel the heater core hoses that go into the fire wall in and out, and if they are both hot then check the blend door inside the vehicle. If one or non is hot then you may have to bleed the coolant system. If that does not remedy flush out the heater core and make sure it is not pluged and then bleed it again.

;he just replaced the thermostat so I do not belive that is the problem, he may have to bleed it.

And the blend door is behind the dash right near the heater core.

Hopefully its just a simple bleed job.

Use a garden hose and flush back and forth several times to rid the core of debris. it may be too clogged to flush and need to be replaced. This guide can tell us for sure what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

Roy

Hoses that go to the firewall

roy

The luke warm heat may be thermostat relasted. Be sure it is not low on coolant.
You can feel its heat by touching both heater hoses just before they enter the interior. Those trucks always come in with a Chrysler code 17, thermostat. OK

You have two problems. First, the fan issue requires that you replace the blower motor resister. It is under the hood, passanger side, on the firewall. It's aprox 3 inches down from the top of the firewall and has a large wiring connector pluged into it. Two screws hold it to the firewall. Just unplug it, unscrew it, and replace it. They are not too expensive. I'm thinking under 15 dollars. Please pay attention to the condition of the plug. I've seen them melted down and requre repair or replacement. If you have any trouble with this or additional questions, let me know. As far as the plug, if it is melted down, chances are the blower motor is drawing too many amps and overheating the system. You will know if the new resister goes bad in a short period of time.

Now for the heat problem, check under the dash for two things. First, make sure the HVAC ductwork is still all attached. If it is, check for vacuum hoses that may have come disconnected. The air flow vents are actuated by vacuum. There could be one off keeping a door in the wrong position.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Have a great Thanksgiving!

Joe

I love these trucks. I think they're WAY better than a Ranger or Blazer.

Start by checking the fuses for the gauge problem. There could also be loose connector pins on the back of the instrument cluster. They can be soldered to make better connection. If the gauges start to work when you press on the cluster, suspect the loose pins.

The heater and temperature gauge are likely related to a defective thermostat. If it sticks open, coolant will flow too rapidly to the radiator and won't get hot enough. Feel the upper radiator hose and the two smaller heater hoses after driving for a while. They should all be too hot to hold onto for very long.

If the loose connector is blue and has six pins in it, that's for connecting a scanner to talk back and forth with some of the computers. There should be either a "feather fastener" to poke into a hole to hold it up or an access panel that the connector sits above.

For the steering play, have it inspected at a tire and alignment shop. You can also watch the movement of the steering linkage while a helper moves the steering wheel back and forth. When the steering wheel and shaft turn, all other linkages should move right away. You're looking for something that has one part moving and the part it's attached to doesn't move right away. The wheels and tires are supposed to turn as soon as the steering wheel is turned. One thing to be aware of when it's inspected is the unusual ball joints. Normally the vehicles is jacked up by the frame so the suspension can hang freely, then the tire is pried up and down to check for wear between the ball and socket of each ball joint. The upper ball joint on each side must have no sideways or vertical play between the ball and socket. That is normal for almost all ball joints on all cars and trucks. However, the lower ball joints CAN have vertical movement on Dakotas. That makes them appear to be severely worn out but even new ones come with about 3/16 inch of vertical movement. Aftermarket replacements generally do not have that movement, but it is acceptable for them to develop that movement, just as long as there is no sideways movement. The ball joints are what holds the wheel in position. They must have absolutely no sideways movement. If one does, it will be impossible for that wheel to stay in proper alignment.

Dakotas don't have very much suspension and steering system trouble, especially compared to GM and Ford products. If any of those parts are replaced, the front end will have to be aligned. That's a fairly easy job on these trucks. One thing you should check first is the ride height. Any alignment shop can show you a small book that shows where to measure and what that measurement should be. In your case, you're just checking to see if both sides are the same so the truck sits level. I like to measure from the ground to the top of the side marker lights on both sides. If you find one side lower than the other, typically the right side, there is an adjustment on each side just behind the seats for the torsion bar springs. Torsion bars are the only type of spring that can be adjusted instead of replaced. You'll have to crawl underneath and use a big breaker bar to adjust the bolt. Turning it clockwise raises that side of the truck. Some alignment shops charge extra for doing that. I never did at the dealership because it only took a few extra minutes.

Any rattles could be related to the sloppy steering. Be sure to mention that to the person doing the inspection.

What is the symptom that makes you think it needs a transfer case?

Caradiodoc