Engine will not stay running

Okay. We are running out of things to check before we are going to have to rebuild the carburetor.

If it were me, I would be taking it apart to rebuild and clean it up.

Totally understand. Normally any carburetor has stampings on it so we may need to just remove it and look for any of these. Then we can try and identify it and then try to find rebuild kits for it.

Once we know this then we can determine the next steps. I am happy to try and help identify it if you can send some pictures of any markings that you find on it.

Okay. I cannot confirm what year that carb is but that is a Motorcraft 2-barrel carburetor.

There are master rebuild kits all over the internet so I am sure you can find one that can be shipped.

Basically, you are going to have to find a kit and then you may not use all the gaskets that are part of it, but you should be able to work your way through it.

When you rebuild it, you are going to want to loosen those 3 torques screws on the choke and adjust the choke so that it is closed when cold. Then adjust it to the point when it starts.

Also, you are going to want to soak the carb overnight in parts cleaner. You can fill a pan, or most parts stores sell paint can sized buckets full that you can soak them.

Great find. I think you are correct. I can only find ones from the 70s and they look slightly different but much closer than the Motorcraft so I would get a rebuild kit for that carb and it will work for yours as well.

Thanks for coming back and updating us on that.

Yeah. It is a Motorcraft carburetor. That part number on the picture you just sent was for this carburetor as well.

Take a look at this attachment.

However, can you try to clean up that part number? I can see it is E43E- 92582-AB?

The E43E is the Motorcraft carburetor, but I suspect this is a sensor of some sort, but we can figure it out for sure once we confirm that part number.

Is the line that says "Carb" with an arrow a vacuum line or a fuel line?

Okay. That is going to be a vacuum solenoid regulator. I attached the one that is on the stock carb but clearly this one is slightly different.

It is a solenoid so it will get warm but if it is getting hot then it could be shorted. It is unlikely that it is the issue, but you can try and unplug it and block the vacuum line to see if the engine starts. It could be the source of your additional air.

I attached the ignition related systems. If we need to get into that then we need to get a new post started so that others will find that detail as well and they won't think to look all through this post for ignition related info.

Unfortunately, we are at the mercy of the print quality they have online.

I will try and zoom in on them, but I am not going to be able to alter the fuzziness of the writing.

Do you have a phone that you can access the photos, because you can zoom in easily on your phone.

I will post what I can come up with.