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Will not idle and runs like all cylinders are misfiring

Tiny
RANGER NATION
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,809 MILES
Drove the truck in march approximately ten miles, ran like always perfect. Everything works. Parked at a store, took about an hour or so, came back out started the truck and it shut off. Restarted it again and it would not idle and ran very rough. I had to use the both feet to get it home. One on the gas and the other on the brake, at stops I had to put it in neutral, still running terrible. No check engine light. Black smoke out the tailpipe. After I got it home I shut it off. Open the hood nothing out of place. Scanned it, no fault codes at all. Performed KOEO. No codes nothing. Tried KOER and the scanned timed out. No KOER. But while I was keeping it running raw fuel was coming out of the exhaust tailpipe and black smoke. All you smelled was raw gas bad. Fuel pressure 60 psi, compression test all six cylinders 170 to 175 psi. It is a space vehicle so it does not get driving that much. So I closed the hood and let it sit. Well I need it now and nothing changed. Its had lots of parts put on it, and changed nothing. The plugs are soaked with fuel all six. And the converters feel like there red hot in just minutes of running. Any advice would be great. Thank you.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2018 AT 10:43 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

The fuel pressure is right where it should be. So, why all the fuel? Do not run it more than you have to otherwise you will be replacing catalytic converters too. Since the pressure is good, lets check the coolant temp sensor. It tells the computer the temperature of the coolant. With that information, the computer adjusts the fuel/air mixture. If it thinks it is -50 degrees F, it will dump fuel to make the engine run.

If your scanner has live data, check the CTS and see what temperature it is reading. If you find it is bad, the sensor is next to the thermostat housing. I attached a picture of it for you.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2018 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
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Live Data ECT temp.89f. ECT volts 2.52. ECT status No Fault, . Ambient Temp 91f. ECT self test pass.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
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This ranger 3.0L flex fuel has had a lot of parts put on it. Plugs, wires, cam and crank sensors. Sense ECT test engine will not start. Poss. Plugs soaked with fuel. And cam synchronizer checks good.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Are you getting spark? Have you confirmed that the fuel pressure isn't too high (bad regulator)? I know you said it was at 60 psi, which is good. However, if you are getting a good spark and it is dumping that much fuel, it sounds like a pressure issue or something has totally clogged the air intake system. It is unlikely that all fuel injectors are sticking open at the same time.

When you check for spark, is it a good hot blue snapping spark or is it white or orange in color? If you pull the fuse for the fuel pump, will it start for a brief time?
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
When it was running, it would surge up and down. 500 rpm to approximately to 1,500 rpm. Also the fuel pressure would also fluctuate from 55 psi to 70, 75 80 psi. Kind of like the high side of an A/C system 134 Freon. The spark seems pretty good. I know it made my hair stand straight up when I leaned on the coil pack. Right now I am recharging the battery. From all of the cranking and KOEO Testing. So in the morning I will pull the fuse and try starting it. I will drop you another email to let you know the results. I truly appreciate your help in this problem child.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
No problem. I just hope I helped. Also, the fuel pressure should not be jumping like that. Have you checked the regulator?
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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  • 12 POSTS
It is in the the fuel tank. Part of the fuel pump assembly.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I removed the fuel pump fuse and it just cranks no start. Reinstalled fuse and tried starting it again. It wanted to start but never did. Is there any way to test the in tank fuel pressure regulator?
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Friday, September 21st, 2018 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
The fuel pressure regulator is attached to the fuel rail downstream of the fuel injectors. Pull the vacuum line off it and check if there is fuel in the hose. I have to be honest, based on how you said pressure was jumping around, I feel it is bad. The pressure should not jump as high as it is. You may be sucking gas through it via engine vacuum.
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Friday, September 21st, 2018 AT 8:57 PM
Tiny
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Yes I know it looks like one. But they call it a fuel pulse damper. It is not serviceable. The actual fuel regulator is part of the fuel pump assembly. I am just not sure how to test it in the fuel tank.
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Saturday, September 22nd, 2018 AT 8:08 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Hi. The component you are referring to is not a regulator. The damper, which is part of the pump assembly, basically is to keep the fuel pressure steady when the injectors are opening and closing. There is no test for that component that I have ever heard of. I checked both of my manuals and there is nothing indicated.
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Saturday, September 22nd, 2018 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
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Okay, so the regulator is on the fuel rail? Because that was one of the first things I checked. No fuel at all in the vacuum hose. So where do I do from here?
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Saturday, September 22nd, 2018 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Yes, it is on the rail. I have to be honest, it is hard to believe that all six injectors would have stuck open at the same time. That leads me back to the regulator, or there is an ignition timing issue. I am going to ask the owner of the site for his opinion. One of us will get back with you ASAP. Lets see if he can more insight.
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Saturday, September 22nd, 2018 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
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That would be great. Thank you.
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Saturday, September 22nd, 2018 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,420 POSTS
Hello,

I have seen where if you have one shorted injector it will cause the injector driver inside the PCM to go full on dumping fuel which out any codes. Please remove all injector connectors and test the ohms through the winding's. Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
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  • 12 POSTS
Hi Ken, unable to do step 1 because the truck will not start. It cranks and tries to start but will not. One thing that I did not add to the initial complaint, was when I did drive it those ten miles, I drove it hard, wide open throttle off every red light and every stop. I will have to remove the plenum to access three of the injectors. I will get back to you after I test all the injectors and wiring. Thanks for the help.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 11:24 AM

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