Engine Won't start

This sounds like you have a crankshaft angle sensor tha5t is out but to be sure this guide will walk us through the repair.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Check your starter fuse #15 in underhood box and relay first. If still won't start try resetting yur anti theft refer to your owners manual for that

That is pretty sad when a dealer doesn't have anyone that knows about anti theft. A scanner will pick it up if there is something amiss with it however. I'm sending a diagram of a fuse that may have burnt up but not checked it is a 200 amp one and is designed to protect the system it goes off the alternator. Check that as well

Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole before replaceing tps. And we aren't parts people we on ly fix the cars. You really need a scan tool for this as1. It can bedamaged by improperly testing it and 2. It's a 2sided tps and both sides need to be checked.

Hey DKM555,

Try putting the car in neutral to see if it could be the neutral safety switch,

Here is a guide that will walk you through a step by step trouble tree.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

Of course there's a solution. The vehicle didn't come from the manufacturer needing to be jump-started.

Jump-starting implies the battery is not being recharged while you're driving. That is the responsibility of the charging system. The generator is the most likely suspect. Start by measuring the battery voltage while the engine is running and with it off. With it running it must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is lower than that the generator is not working but that could also be due to the voltage regulator which controls the generator.

If the voltage is within that range yet the battery is not staying charged the battery itself could be bad or the generator could have one bad diode of the six. A professional load test will find that. With one bad diode the generator will only be able to produce exactly one third of its rated output current. That's not enough to meet the demands of the electrical system under all conditions so the battery will make up the difference until it runs down.

With the engine off the battery voltage should be 12.6 volts. That shows it's fully charged. If you find closer to 12.2 volts the battery is okay but it's discharged. At around 11 volts or less the battery has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

Sorry to be leaving you hanging so long. I'm spending almost every day out of town helping a friend.

Start with a professional load test on the charging system. In particular I'm interested in full-load maximum current and "ripple" voltage.

Try resetting security system not sure if that is problem but sounds like it. see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

I would suggest starting with checking all the main fuses and testing the alternator charging, both between the battery terminals and between alternator main mast and body ground.

Check fuel pump pressure to make sure the pump is producing enough pressure. Also, what do you mean by nozzle?