Windshield sprayer front not working

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

First, make sure the fuse for the washer pump is good. Under the hood on the left side of the engine compartment, you will find the power distribution box. Locate fuse number 33. It is a 15 amp fuse. Confirm it is good.

Here are some links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Next, if the fuse is good, locate the windshield washer pump mounted at the bottom of the washer reservoir. Check for power to the orange wire with a pink tracer on it.

If there is power, you have a bad pump.

Here are the directions for replacement:

FRONT WASHER PUMP/MOTOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the engine fresh air housing inside the engine compartment.
3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector forward of the cowl grille so that the in-line connector remains with the washer hose from the fresh air plenum.
4. Disconnect the washer hose from the hose clip located on the front fender side shield.
5. Remove the filler tube screw.
6. Hoist and support vehicle on hoist or jack stands.
7. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly.
8. Disconnect the left right front wheelhouse splash shield and move aside.
9. Drain washer fluid from the reservoir and into a suitable clean container. This can be done by disconnecting the windshield washer hose from the front (outboard) washer pump and allowing the washer fluid to drain into a container through a temporary jumper hose connected to the front washer pump.
10. Disconnect the electrical body harness connectors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the release position, then, depress the black tab and pull the connector off the pump or sensor.
11. Remove the two reservoir mounting screws.
12. Disconnect the reservoir from the body mount by raising the reservoir upward slightly and then down so that the reservoir filler neck and front washer hose pull through the opening in the front fender side shield.
13. Remove pump from reservoir by pulling pump upper retention tab away from reservoir cavity and then lifting pump up from mounting grommet. Do not damage reservoir/pump sealing surface or puncture reservoir during removal.
14. Remove pump grommet and discard.

INSTALLATION
1. Use new grommet when installing a new pump assembly.
2. Assure pump upper retention tab is pressed into reservoir slot and that pump is rotated flat against the reservoir and that pump connector is facing up in the fully seated position. Assure the pump is aligned to and fully seated in the reservoir cavity
3. Push filler neck and front washer hose through the opening in the front fender side shield. Connect the reservoir to the body mount by lowering the reservoir down.
4. Install the two reservoir mounting screws. Torque screws to 8.5 - 11.3 Nm (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
5. Connect the electrical body harness connectors to the washer pump motors and the fluid level sensor. Slide the red lock on the connector to the closed or locked position.
6. Assure that washer hose is properly routed to prevent pinching and possible inoperative washers.
7. Connect the left right front wheelhouse splash shield and move aside.
8. Install the right front wheel and tire assembly.
9. lower vehicle from hoist or jack stands.
10. Install the filler tube screw. Torque screw to 8.5 - 11.3 Nm (75 - 100 in. lbs.).
11. Connect the washer hose to the hose clip located on the front fender side shield.
12. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector forward of the cowl grille.
13. Install the engine fresh air housing inside the engine compartment.
14. Connect the battery negative cable.
15. Verify system operation.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome to 2CarPros.

First a question, does the rear washer still work? If it does then the fuse and power feed should be okay. If it doesn't work then check the fuse (#33 in the fuse box under the hood).
Now if the fuse is blown then something is probably shorted to one of the washer motors as they don't draw that much power. In the event the rear washer works then the probable cause is either the washer motor itself has failed or the hose from it to the washer nozzles broke. To check this listen at the right side of the van while someone activates the washer control. If you hear the motor whine look for fluid leaking or spraying along the tube. If you hear nothing then you will need to access the pump to test there.
The first step is to jack up and support the right front of the van, then remove the tire. Then remove the inner fender liner screws up to the top front of the liner, enough that you can flex the liner out and get to the outer pump that just pushes into a grommet in the washer tank.

Remove the wire connector from the outer pump. Use a simple test light attached to the two wire pins and have someone activate the washer, if the light comes on the power and ground to the pump are good and the pump has failed. Replacing the pump is simple, you remove the hose and let the fluid drain out into a container, it holds about a gallon if full. Then you twist and pull the pump so it comes out of the tank. Reverse the process with the new pump. Then test to be sure it works and reverse the steps to button it back up.

If you test with the light and it doesn't come on it is possible that the relay that controls it has failed or the wash function in the switch has failed. The relay isn't replaceable, it is part of the power module (fuse box). To test the switch you need a scan tool that can read the body control module signals. On it you can watch if the switch is sending the on/off signal to the module. This isn't a voltage signal that a meter can read, is is a data signal only.
If the switch is sending a signal but the TIPM isn't sending the power to the washer the TIPM would need to be replaced. Or you could wire in a simple push button to send 12 volts to the washer motor instead.
But the pumps do fail quite often.