Hi guys. We had some training on this at the Chrysler training centers. If you're hearing wind noise, don't overlook the wiper arms. In later years those were moved to under the rear edge of the hood to eliminate turbulence.
If you think it's coming through the driver's door, first check if the front edge is sticking out past the rear edge of the fender. That will catch air and overload the rubber seal. Seal that door with masking tape all the way around, then crawl in from the passenger side and drive the car to see if the noise is gone. If it is, suspect the rubber weather seal. Those have a bunch of small holes punched in them all the way around. Those are to allow the seal to balloon up creating a tighter seal. If those holes are blocked, or if the rubber tube is torn, that pressure can't build up. Also look for an area where that tube has been crushed. This usually is the result of someone running something through the opening, like a CB radio antenna cable. If you see that, cut a small slit in the tube, then slide in a small piece of rubber tubing to hold the area expanded.
Also check if the front edge of the rear door is sticking out past the back of the front door. If it's in what looks like too far, you may need to adjust the front door striker in to match the rear door. That will hold the front door closed more.
Check if the top of the door is not close enough to the body when closed. On these models that is adjusted with the door hinges. On a lot of newer models, the hinges are actually welded in place and aren't adjustable. To bring the top edge closer to the body, place a piece of 2 x 4 covered in rags or carpet between the door and body, in line with the latch. This holds the door open roughly 2". With that limiting how much you can push, push on the upper rear corner of the door frame to bend it closer to the opening. It's quite easy to over-bend and kink the door at the base of the window opening. That's why the 2 x 4 will keep the door fairly close to limit how far you can bend it.
There's three special tools for finding wind leaks. One is a dollar bill. Hold that in the opening as you close the door over it, then see if you can slide the bill sideways or pull it out easily. If the resistance is low enough that the bill will slide, the weatherstrip isn't making contact in that area.
The people at the parts department have a can of Leak Detecting powder. It's a fine white powder resembling talcum powder. Spray that on the metal opening, then close the door very slowly and gently. (With normal door slamming, the weatherstrip is supposed to crush, then push the door out as that seal expands back to its normal shape. We want to avoid that here). If the door latches fully, then you can easily push it in some more, that seal isn't being compressed. Now open the door, and look if that powder has transferred onto the seal. You should see a strip of powder roughly 1/4" to 1/2" wide. If you find a thin strip of powder, the seal may move away from the opening at higher speeds. Look for any area where no powder transferred to the seal. If you see that but there's no obvious defect, consider placing a small bead of Silicone Sealer under that part of the seal to hold it closer to the metal surface. Chrysler has two sealers. The gray stuff gets harder and is ideal for bonding and sealing through a light film of oil that is hard to clean off. The black stuff is better for this job. It will not bond through an oil film, but it stays more rubbery and is easier to remove. Let that bead cure for a couple of hours before snapping the seal back into place.
If you need to remove the weatherstrip, the photo below shows the type of clip you're likely to run into. The part circled in red is slid into the hole of the seal. Hold the seal in one hand, then pull the clip sideways with your other hand to pop one end out or to slide it back in. Removing it from the metal hole is easy once you know how. Use the weatherstrip as a handle to pull the clip up and sideways until the tab with the blue arrow peeks out. Use a flat-blade screwdriver or similar tool to squeeze or push that tab in the direction the arrow is pointing, then pull it out. To reinstall them, push on the head through the weatherstrip to poke it back into the hole.
The third tool is an electronic ear. You can hold the wand down by areas where you can't poke your head while driving. Dealerships usually have one, but they rarely get used. You might find one at an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. If they have one, they typically charge the value of the tool, then you get a full refund when you take it back. If you choose to keep a tool, you still take it back, then they give you or order a brand new one.
Another thing to look for is a missing water shield behind the door trim panel. That's just a clear plastic sheet glued to the door. People have been known to throw those away when they don't know what they're for. Without that, you might get wind noise from the opening where the latch is mounted at the back of the door, or from a loose-fitting door lock cylinder.
Use the dollar bill between the window glass and upper felt in the window channel. The glass should seal tight enough to prevent pulling the bill out without tearing it. If you can pull it out, suspect the regulator is out of adjustment. There's usually a bar bolted to the bottom of the door that can be repositioned slightly to adjust the glass.
Something else to consider is wind noise coming through the front core support around the radiator. There's multiple holes in that sheet metal, and every one must be filled with something. Besides the radiator, that could include the charcoal canister, coolant reservoir, washer fluid bottle, or a rubber or plastic plate clipped in. Those holes also must be sealed to prevent air from bypassing the radiator. Along with that, there will be a rubber seal under the front edge of the hood, and along the rear edge, either on the hood itself, but usually on the body, right in front of the wiper arms. Be sure those aren't missing.
With the hood fully closed, you should not be able to push the front edge down more, or lift it up. If you can do either, the plastic strikers in each front corner are adjusted up too high, or the latch must be adjusted down to ensure the hood is sealing on that front rubber seal.
Also consider a radiator fan clutch that is locked up. With the engine off, the fan should spin freely with some resistance. If you can't spin it, it will run at full engine speed and make a lot of roaring noise that sounds like wind noise.
The last thing I can think of is there's a fiber panel hung behind the rear seat backrest. That's for sound deadening. If that is missing, I wouldn't try to find a new one. You'll find them in any similar model in a pick-your-own-parts salvage yard for a few bucks.
Now that I've shared all that I know, I'll leave you two to your conversation.
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Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 4:26 PM
