Back up for a moment. Chrysler Engine Computers caused extremely little trouble. The first step is to check if you have spark. If you did that already and that is what led you to the ignition coil, be aware there will not be 12 volts to it except for one second when you turn the ignition switch to "run", then only when the engine is rotating, meaning cranking or running. If you're expecting to find 12 volts to it with the ignition switch turned on, but not cranking, there won't be.
You can also listen for the hum of the fuel pump for that first one second, but that can be hard to hear. A better method is to use a test light to check if the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on. You can use a digital voltmeter too, but those usually don't respond fast enough. Also, you can see the test light from inside the car, so you don't need a helper to turn the ignition switch.
Find the wire that is the same color at the injector and the ignition coil. That is usually a dark green / orange wire. You can also use either of the two smaller terminals on the back of the alternator. Connect the test light to any one of those points. When you turn the ignition switch from "off" to "run", the test light should light up bright for one second, then turn back off. What is important is it must turn back on during cranking. If it does not, the best suspects are the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor on newer models. On yours it is the "Hall Effect" pick-up assembly under the rotor in the distributor. That is in fact, a very high-failure item. A lot of people carry a spare in the glove box. The photo shows what it looks like.
Start with those tests and let me know what you find. It can also be helpful to know what led up to this problem.
Image (Click to make bigger)
SPONSORED LINKS
Sunday, June 28th, 2020 AT 3:19 PM