I turned the key, heard a click, but the engine didn't start?

Tiny
SPYDEYNINJA25
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
My car was running just fine. I drove it home from work just yesterday, no problems.

The "Maintenance Required" light had been on for a few days so I decided to see if my BlueDriver OBII device could identify any issues.

I plugged in the BlueDriver device, started the car, the engine started just fine and ran fine.

I ran a full scan on all modules, and it came back with 0 (zero) codes.

I unplugged the BlueDriver then turned off the car.

I noticed my son had left his window down so I went to start the car to roll up the window. I turned the key, heard a click, but the engine didn't start.

I tried again and again. Nothing. All electrical came on, small click, but no turn over, nothing.

I checked the battery. The positive terminal cable was loose, so I tightened it, and tried again. Same thing, nothing.

I connected my other vehicle to my Honda and ran current for 30+ minutes, nothing.

I have no idea why it is not starting now.

I ran the BlueDriver device again, but still no codes coming up.

I am concerned that by unplugging the module while the car was running, it might have messed something up with the ECU.

Could it have messed up the ECU if the unit was unplugged or the car turned off, part way during a scan or clearing codes?

Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions would be very much appreciated!
Wednesday, February 19th, 2020 AT 7:26 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Hi,

I don't feel you hurt anything. It sounds like you may still have a connection issue, a weak battery, or the starter itself. Follow these links and let me know if they help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know the results of the tests. Also, let me know if you notice any dimming when the key is placed to the start position and if it is making any noise at all, if you checked fuses and if you checked the starter relay.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
SPYDEYNINJA25
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Joe,

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I will give those articles a read and attempt to get some positive results.

Before I read your response, this is what I tried, after posting my initial question:

I tightened the positive terminal cable, it was pretty loose. Turned the ignition. Nothing.

I disconnected the terminal cables from the battery. Touched them together for a number of minutes to discharge any capacitors, hoping this would hard reset the ECU in case it had gotten "stuck" or something while using the BlueDriver. After a few minutes, I reconnected the terminals. Turned the Ignition. Nothing

I disconnected the terminals again but left them disconnected the whole night. I reconnected them this morning. Turned the ignition, Nothing.

I will have to try the various suggestions the articles recommend once I get home from work today.

One thing I did notice yesterday and today, there seems to be some corrosion on the battery brace bar/bracket (it goes over the middle of the battery, between the two terminals), but it is on the side opposite the terminals. I have only ever seen corrosion on terminals, not the opposite side of the terminals on the brace bar. Strange.

I also find it very strange that it was working fine before this started. No indication that anything was going bad or getting worse. It would start up just fine. Then within a span of 3 minutes from being turned off, it just stopped turning on. Not even cranking. Just a single click when I turn the ignition. Kind of makes me think it is the starter solenoid that isn't able to engage the gear for some reason.

Thanks again Joe for the info. I will try them out and report back later today.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
You are very welcome. You mentioned removal of the battery cables, did you clean any corrosion (if there was any) from both the cable and the terminal?

As far as the hold down, that doesn't seem to far from the ordinary.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
SPYDEYNINJA25
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Joe,

I wanted to give you an update. Sorry for the delayed response. We had a few other things that came up before I could get working on this.

So I tested the battery. It came out to 12.26v.
I could not start the car, so there was no way for me to test the alternator.
I tested the starter, and it appeared to be receiving sufficient amperage, but could not engage for some reason. I figured the solenoid had gone bad.

About then a friend showed up and said he could help me. He had me maintain the key in the full forward position, as if to start the car. He then shorted the two starter terminals with a hand file. After a few attempts, the starter engaged. We tested the battery, it was charging.

We then turned off the vehicle and tried to start it again, it would not engage/start.
We tested the battery, and it was just above 11v.
We started the vehicle again, the same way as before, by shorting the starter, and then let it run for a bit, like 30 mins.
I noticed that the check engine light was on, when previously it wasn't, only the maintenance required light was on previously.

So I threw in my Bluedriver and checked the codes. It stated "P1359 TDC, CKP No Pulse".
Looking into it, the code definition reads:

CKP/TDC Sensor Circuit Malfunction
4 Possible causes: PCM has failed; TDC pickup assembly or its pulse rotor is damaged; TDC signal circuit is open or shorted to ground; TDC signal circuit is shorted to voltage (B+)

It stated that possible fixes are:
Replacing the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Replacing the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Connector
Repair the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Connector
Replace the Starter

So I drove it around for about 15 minutes to charge the battery and hopefully get everything back to its normal working self.

I got home, turned off the vehicle, and then turned it back on a moment later, it started. I turned it off. Came back about 2 hours later, and it started. I came back the following day and started it and it came to life without any issues.

I used it yesterday and drove it to work today. Also the check engine light is not longer on.

So I am not really sure if it was the starter, the CKP, or something else, but it is working now.

Thank you Joe for posting those links. They guided me in the right direction to get starting the vehicle. I appreciate you assistance!

-Spydey
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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You are very welcome. I have to be honest, if you had power to the starter and it wouldn't engage, chances are it is a connection issue or the starter is going bad. As far as the code you indicated, that wouldn't prevent it from cranking (starter engagement). However, a weak battery can cause it.

At this point, drive it and see if it continues running properly. If it does, great, but if the same issue comes up again with the starter, I would replace it.

Please feel free to come back anytime.

Take care and let me know if you need help.

Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:03 PM

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