What is causing the battery parasitic draw?

Hello, well you have narrowed it down quite a bit already. I'll post the list of components in service info on that circuit. The daytime running lights should have a relay which I'll find for you, do you have a moon(sun) roof? There is also this Ignition Key Cylinder light, not sure if you have that or not. And then the Combination Meter (Cluster) looks to be on that circuit as well, probably for back lighting.

Okay, even though these are aftermarket wiring diagrams, they do show a control module for the Daytime running lights, which is most likely going to be the draw. Since it's on a Hot at all times power feed through the Dome fuse. It's behind and above the glove box, so if you take the glove box out you should be able to see. Just unplug it and make sure your headlights and tail, etc, still work okay.

The DRL Relay is not on the Dome Fuse circuit, but this control module is. You can try pulling the DRL Fuse and Relay and see if the draw drops off, but it may not, and another concern would be that the Brake Indicator and High Beam indicator don't work anymore with the DRL module unplugged, It looks like the module controls the Ground for the Brake Indicator and the power for the High Beam Indicator on the Cluster.

The Dome Fuse feeds it might be for some kind of memory since it's a constant feed.

Refresh this page, I posted some additional info in my last post.

I would also check that you still have a High Beam indicator on the Cluster after unplugging the module, the Brake Indicator too is controlled by the module it looks like. The OEM shows that's its pretty integrated. It controls quite a few circuits. Maybe find a used one if possible if you lose anything on the Cluster with the module unplugged.

These are the OEM diagrams of the DRL control module.

The 5th diagram is the Dome Fuse to Cluster for the Door Indicator and the Ambient Temperature Display, so those are on that fuse as well.

Okay, so you're still at 250ma. Let's see what else could be on that circuit
Did the Ambient Temp display go out with the DRL relay disconnected too?

There's supposed to be an outside temperature display on the Cluster, your vehicle may not have it, or it may be burned out. This is the Cluster Temperature display and Door indicator, same power feed but different circuits inside the Cluster.

Okay, I'm not seeing much else, except this Integration Relay, which I believe is built into the Instrument Panel J/B (fuse panel) driver side dash. It activates the door lamps and seat belt indicator, etc. You may be able to unplug the connector that comes from the Dome Fuse, That blue/yellow wire, I'll see what connector it is, probably on the back of that fuse panel.

This wire needs to be blue with a yellow stripe though, at pin 4 of this connector, the other diagram is a bit different for some reason. This wire comes from the engine room fuse panel, into the Driver Side J/B on pin A4 and then back out on E10, to the Center J/B. But the aftermarket diagrams are not always correct. So just check the back of the driver side fuse panel for this connector 1A and pin 4 being the Blue/Yellow wire.

You can see in the 2nd diagram it looks different.
Here is the Integration Relay Location.

Okay, here is its exact location, they have multiple boxes on the driver side, but the Integration Relay is on the back side of that driver side fuse panel, 2nd diagram labelled C.

What are you using to measure current flow? If it's an amp clamp you could check each wire right at the back of that fuse panel and see which wire the draw is actually on. And trace it down that way

It looks like the Integration Relay is also the Door Lock Relay. Service info also mentions "Key Off Power window signal".

It looks like the Integration Relay is in series somehow with the Gauge Fuse which goes to the Alternator IG feed. Which I would think is an ignition feed to the Alternators voltage regulator. So, you could keep the fuse out, and put it in when you drive, I know that sounds like a huge pain.

You can also check the fuses in that driver side fuse panel for voltage drop, if you trip the door switches so the interior lights go off, that way there isn't current flowing due to the door switch and then check for any millivolt voltage drop, If there is voltage drop across a fuse there is current flowing on that fuse.
It's the method used now instead of taking fuses out, because on more modern vehicles pulling fuses wakes up networks and modules causing normal current draw.
But check the fuses on the interior fuse panel, and if you find any, you will because you have a 250ma draw.

You can figure out where the current is going from the interior fuse panel, since you have already figured out that's its originating from the Dome fuse in the engine fuse panel.
The voltage drop across fuses will be in the very low mv range, but that's how we're finding parasitic draws these days. You may even try unplugging the Alternator itself.
Maybe that Integration relay is staying on, I don't see any diagrams of its internal function. But try measuring voltage drop, set your meter on mv, or auto range if it has it. And let's see what you find. And Ill check back with you a little later.

Well, you don't want the battery to be constantly drained. Even getting down to 11-volts is going to prematurely damage the battery. And you have to drive long enough for the Alternator to fully recharge the battery too. The Alternator has to run the vehicle and also charge the battery at the same time. Short trips can be an issue in that regard. But having a 250ma draw, that's a 1/4 of an amp. The vehicle should be down below 50ma at min. I like to see them down to about 20ma if possible (0.020A). Batteries that drop below 12.4v will greatly shorten the life.
So, if you measured 1.1volts of voltage drop on that 15Amp fuse (the Dome fuse) that's just about 230ma of current flow on that fuse. 1.2v of voltage drop would be 250ma on a 15Amp fuse.
Did you try unhooking the alternator to see if the draw stops? Thats something to check as well.
Which fuses did you have 0.2v on? And what rating was the fuse? The rating of the fuse is taken into the calculation for Ohms Law when measuring voltage drop. A 10Amp fuse with 0.2volts on it compared to a 15Amp fuse is about twice the current flow. (10Amp would be around 26ma and a 15Amp fuse would be around 42ma.
At something like 250ma, that almost seems like a relay is staying on.

How are you testing the current draw? You have a multimeter in series with one of the battery cables, correct? And are you testing with the driver's door open?