Went from intermittent misfire to jerking and shutting off?

Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 BUICK RENDEZVOUS
  • 3.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 99,500 MILES
I started having a bit of a misfire intermittently as I was getting on freeway when I accelerated at about 45-60, but didn't happen all the time. I knew I needed maintenance tune up and had just been told that the guy who’d last changed my spark plugs hadn’t been able to reach one, so thought maybe it was that one. Intermittent misfire got a bit more frequent. At one point the “service engines soon” light came on but went out again. So, I made an appt with a repair shop and took it in at the beginning of this month. Told them what was happening. They ran diagnostics and P0300 came up with P1189 and P1811. Recommended spark plugs and wires, which is what I agreed with. When I picked it up it drove home about 3-4 miles and it did fine. An hour later I went to fill gas tank and had to wait In line quite a while with engine running. When I pulled away from pumps, about 1-2 miles down the road it jerked and hissed and shut off on me. Couldn’t restart it right away but managed to start it and it jumped, jerked and shut off on me just down the road. Got it started again and soon as I would accelerate past 15-19 MPH it would jerk and die again. Managed to get
back home going no more than 19-20 MPH with it jerking and dying every few yards. Took it back to shop and they got two codes P1189 engine oil pressure switch circuit and P1626 Theft Deterrent Fuel enable system lost. Adv notes said vehicle went into self-preservation mode due to oil pressure switch and recommended replacing engine oil pressure switch so another $175 in addition to the $560 I had just paid (pricing was quite reasonable, I just expected the problem to be gone). Picked it up and on the way home it jerked and shut off about 3 or 4 times. I was going about 40 MPH. I’ve not called the shop because I’m completely broke until my next payday and still owe $150 out of the $175. Next day I drove it around my neighborhood 20-26 MPH without it shutting off. So, I went out yesterday in a bit busier area and went 25 to 40 MPH. It did fine but seemed to misfire (littler jerk) on my way back home. Again, this seemed to happen after I had to sit at lights due to lots of traffic. Since then, I don’t dare take it on the freeway or venture too far from home as I get the feeling that as soon as I sit idle in traffic it may shut off again and people around are not very nice or helpful. They are all in a mad race to get somewhere. I only have three more tows on my AAA so I don’t want to waste them. I can’t pay for any more repairs until my next payday, which is almost 2 weeks away.

I just had oil changed last month and had my transmission serviced last year when it wouldn’t go into D, and I had to move it through each gear before it would go. Did fine after.

I really like the people at this shop, and they had great reviews which is why I chose them. I guess I don’t understand this whole diagnosis code process. The one code they got about theft kind of freaks me out because someone punctured a hole in my gas tank in 2015 trying to steal my gas. I had to replace the gas tank and bought a used one from eBay. It wasn’t the right tank, so the car had to be modified to fit the tank I bought. Now I am wondering if any of that could be causing some of this.

I drove it again last night when it was cool out and there was almost no traffic and got up to 50 MPH without any problem.

So, with all the things I've had done at this point, what else could be causing it to lurch, lunge, and shut off? Do I just take it back to the same place or find someone else to do another diagnosis? A while back one shop told me the service engine or check engine light had to be on in order to get any codes. I would sure appreciate being steered in the right direction with an idea of what more to expect or anticipate.
Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 4:42 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

The codes are all over the place. LOL The P1189 does deal with oil pressure. Have you ever had the oil light come on? Are there any engine oil leaks?

P1811 is a transmission code. Are there any shifting problems?

P1626 is related to the antitheft. However, it could be something as simple as the key not being recognized. If you have a spare key, try it to see if that prevents the code from returning. Also, let me know if the antitheft light is remaining on.

So, the one thing I noticed is when it happens. You indicated it stalls after sitting at idle for an extended period of time. Under those conditions, the under-hood temperature rises. One thing that can fail under those conditions is a crankshaft position sensor. When these sensors begin to fail, often they are adversely affected by heat which can cause the vehicle to run poorly, stall, and even cause a stall and a delayed restart until it cools.

Take a look through this link and let me know if it mirrors anything you experience:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Yes, there has been an oil leak for a long time. They were supposed to check last year but forgot and just changed the oil. When I had it changed last month, they said there was a leak, but I already knew that. Trying to work through what I can afford when I can afford it. The “change oil” light came on last month and I took it to get it changed the next day and it was chugging/jerking/lunging some on my way there. It drove smoothly after that until I had driven around town and traffic a bit and seemed to be the misfire thing again. I made an appointment for plugs and wires after that because I thought that was the problem and knew they were due to be replaced at 100k. Man this stuff makes my brain-tired LOL. I thought mechanical things were just with your hands but obviously not! I’ve also typed this stuff on my phone three times now and my hands are giving out so I will get this posted and hopefully not lose it this time. Thanks for the feedback and I promise to keep responding until it’s resolved.
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Thursday, August 18th, 2022 AT 10:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The idea that you have an oil leak, and the pressure code is present leads me to think the sensor is bad. Often times when they fail, oil is pumped through the sensor into the connector and then all over the place. LOL

As a result of the leak, oil pressure usually drops because there is a leak at the sensor, so it can't build proper pressure.

I attached a pic below. It shows the oil pressure switch location. If you open the hood, look toward the rear of the engine on the side. See if you can locate that switch. See if it is all wet with oil in that location.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Friday, August 19th, 2022 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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Will check it now as long as I can figure out which is the LH side of engine as diagram says. I think I can figure it out, though.

New Problems: Car drove fine last night and going 40-50 MPH. Shifts all smooth, no dying after idling, but never sat too long idling. Parked it in our steep driveway with tail in first (which I rarely do) and went out earlier today to take my son to work and soon as I pulled out of driveway it started hissing, hesitating and dying. I would wait a few seconds before starting it again. Sometimes it would take 2 or 3 cranks to start. I didn't do any more than that because I just felt it needed to wait a bit (anti-theft light is NOT staying lit, only lights when it dies - perhaps this is due to someone poking a hole in my gas tank trying to steal my gas a few years ago. Replaced tank with a used one but it was the wrong tank and mechanic had to order parts to modify it to fit.)

I was so close to home I just kept going a few yards at a time, like 2 to 3. It kept hissing, lunging, jerking and dying. It acted as if I was out of gas or had a dead battery when I tried to start it again. At some of the starts and or dying, there's be a weird electrical clicking kind of noise. I know sounds crazy, but I pay attention to everything. Had to wait a couple minutes for it to start back up again, then go a few yards and it would hiss and repeat, again acting like a drained battery or no gas (I've never run out of gas before so I'm not quite sure what happens). So, I got back home finally after I waited a good 20 minutes for it to cool down. It drove the last 75 yards without hissing or shutting off and went right up the driveway. This time nose in first instead of tail. There is quite a bit of oil in some areas. I will try to video or take photos of it and post. Wish me luck I'm pretty short so hopefully it's within my reach and sight! Hehe
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Sunday, August 21st, 2022 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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So, I didn’t figure out where op switch was but there is oil everywhere around in there on both sides of engine. I’m posting a couple of pics.
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Sunday, August 21st, 2022 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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Oil everywhere in there!
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Sunday, August 21st, 2022 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

I do see the oil. Believe it or not, I've seen a lot worse. LOL Regardless, it needs attention.

In the first picture, where did you take that pic from? Also, if it is on both sides, there is a chance it is coming from the valve covers. However, I still suspect the oil pressure switch with the present code. I believe pic 2 is looking downward at the A/C compressor. Again, a leaking valve cover can cause that.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, August 21st, 2022 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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Pics are from both sides and there is also dry (not fresh oil) where I think a head gasket would be maybe? They did change the oil pressure switch when it was at the repair shop last time due to the 1186 code. So, could the transmission code be due to a valve cover problem? I’m getting confused. Is a head gasket cover the same as a valve cover gasket? I had a Honda with a blown head gasket or maybe it was a valve cover gasket. I remember talk about maybe a cracked head which would have meant replacing the engine. But they did the head gasket thing at a cost of $600 on my Honda Accord. It has been awhile since that happened and I got rid of that Honda. So, for what happened today, it couldn’t be that maybe the fuel not getting where it’s supposed go? I’m just amazed how good it drove last night with no problem and then today it began all that as soon as I pulled out of the driveway. The gas gauge changed quite a bit when I get the car level after my it's been in the steep driveway.
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Sunday, August 21st, 2022 AT 9:37 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

The head gasket and valve cover are two different things. The head gasket is between the cylinder head and engine block. The valve cover is at the top of the cylinder head.

As far as the issue is concerned, you may want to consider having the fuel pressure tested. I don't feel the transmission code would lead to the vehicle shutting off. I have a question. Does the engine restart right away after it stalls or is it delayed?

Here is a link that explains in general how to test fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

You would need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores would lend you one. Let me know if you are comfortable doing this.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, August 22nd, 2022 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Just got back here to check your reply. There happen to be two auto part stores near me within walking distance so I will call about the kit to see if they just loan them out. BTW I came out to car just now to start the engine since it’s been sitting for a few days, and it ran for a few seconds and shut off. Started it again and it died immediately. Car is sitting slanted up in the driveway. I will need to get it down to the street here to flatten it. I need to check to be sure I can tell where to connect the test line and all. When I started it there is a strong gasoline smell, which I’ve smelled before but this time it’s really strong. As long as I can tell where to connect the kit, I am okay doing the test myself. It will take me a few days to walk over to the auto parts place to get kit. I work 24 hour shifts every other day so I may need to wait until Sat or Monday since I’m working
tomorrow. I will get back to you soon as I get this done but give me a few days. I’m a bit older and slower these days. LOL
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Thursday, August 25th, 2022 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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If you smell fuel, chances are there is a leak. Put on safety glasses, open the hood, and have someone turn the key on and off to the run position but not start the engine. Do this when it's cold. See if you notice any leaks.

Let me know.

Joe

PS: OMG! 24-hour shifts? Ugh! That would take me out. LOL
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Thursday, August 25th, 2022 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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Okay, so, I couldn’t find the thing you are supposed to connect the fuel pressure gauge hose to, so I just sunk back into depression over the whole thing. Right now, I am wondering if I should take it back to the place I’ve already been. I owe them $150.00 for the oil pressure switch. But I’m hesitant because both times I’ve gone there the car has driven way worse after. Like the shutting off. It never did that before. They charge me for a diagnosis and then give the recommendation based on the code and I’ve okayed that but drive away and it breaks down with the shutting off thing. I guess I don’t understand why things work the way they seem to these days. Mechanics used to check things out regardless of any “code” and find the problem and fix it or at least come up with an estimate and let you decide to have it done or not. From what I read here in the fuel thing and fuel
Pump, the same symptoms are what was happening before I even had the spark plugs changed. So now I’m wondering if it needed that oil pressure switch or not? Am I expecting too much from them?
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Tuesday, August 30th, 2022 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Also, it’s pretty obvious there is an oil leak, but they never mentioned that to me and just did the pressure test and replaced the switch. The switch didn’t have anything to do with it leaking oil, did it?
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Tuesday, August 30th, 2022 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

The switch may have been leaking and what you see now is the residual from the leak. As far as checking fuel pressure is concerned, the port is at the front of the fuel rail. See pic 1 below.

I also attached the directions for installing the fuel pressure gauge and the removal.

You are not asking for too much or expecting too much. If the shop was unable to meet your needs, it's time to try somewhere other.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, August 30th, 2022 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I believe we found it (my neighbor helped) along with a video on YouTube. Videos on YouTube have helped me with more things in life! Anyway, I can borrow a pressure tester from AutoZone by leaving a deposit for the cost of the test kit and will get that back when I return the test kit. I will get that done between today and tomorrow. I see what the regulator is, too. Man, there are so many things under the hood attaching to the engine or parts attached to the engine! I may post pictures here in a few minutes just to be sure I've located the right things.
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Wednesday, August 31st, 2022 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Is this the fuel pressure regulator in the right and the thing to connect pressure test hose to on the left?
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Wednesday, August 31st, 2022 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
So, is there no way to test the fuel pressure regulator without the test kit? There is a YouTube video where the guy revs the engine manually with his hand on the manifold and says the manifold is cold which means it’s the regulator. And rather than actual fuel leaking the smell I am smelling is more like a too rich smell. Not sure what to call that. But the fumes themselves seem really strong rather than actual gas because when the gas tank ruptured and a line from the tank was off, I smelled really strong gasoline that took my breath away. This smell now doesn’t do that. And here I go using a whole lot of words! Forgive me for being so verbose! Chatty Kathy I am!
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Wednesday, August 31st, 2022 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

LOL. You're not chatty. As far as testing pressure without a test kit is unlikely to be valid.

In your pic above, the circled item on the right appears to be the fuel pressure regulator. The circled item on the left is not the Schrader valve (where the pressure gauge attaches).

The Schrader is on the end of the fuel injector rail. See pics above. It will have a cap that unscrews.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, August 31st, 2022 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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I haven’t figured out exactly where Shrader valve is yet. But I will keep trying. We are having a massive heat wave right now, so it was 106 today and going to be 113 tomorrow. I want to be sure I know where that valve is before I go get the kit. I think I see where the injector rail is but haven’t seen valve. Both fuel injector rails are under the top of the engine cover, right?
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Sunday, September 4th, 2022 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
KATHLEEN ADAMS
  • MEMBER
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Oh, and the fuel pressure regulator is there on the right so would the sheafed be on the left of back or where? I found a black thing in the left side crossways from the regulator, but I don't think it twists off. I tried following the line that goes to the regulator but that didn’t help me. I’m only 5’2” so I don’t have a great view of everything under the hood. I need a step stool! LOL Especially towards the back. Then I get sweat dripping in my eyes and have to quit looking for a while in this heat. LOL
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Sunday, September 4th, 2022 AT 9:50 PM

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