Temperature fluctuations

Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 179,000 MILES
Last week I noticed while on the highway my temperature gauge (which is and should remain on cold due to fan wired into the ignition to keep the engine cool, no air conditioning, previous owner originally had it wired to a toggle switch, but we moved it so I didn't have to worry about turning it off and the toggle broke). Anyway, I realized that it was reading slightly above the middle, but it wasn’t constant like in a normal car. It was going up and down. It was happening at random times not just at acceleration or when I decreased speed or when I maintained it. It wasn’t getting dangerously high, so I didn’t worry too much. Assumed I needed to replace the fuse the fan is wired into. Well, the next time I took it on the highway it began doing it immediately and this time after fluctuating for a little it started to get too high so I pulled off the highway and checked the fuse. The fuse was fine but I replaced it anyway. The fan does run when I start the car. Now it seems to start going up after I've come to a stop light, and it doesn't take much. Within minutes and well before the engine is “hot”. It did stall about a month ago and after I replaced the fuse it was a rough start with a rough idle to it shaking some. That eventually stabilized. However, I've had some issues with starting it on and off for a little while where I have to press on the gas a little to get it running. The fuel pump is less than a year old. Oil was changed not too long ago and has enough. The fluctuation on gauge is where I'm confused. It doesn’t really change when I'm at light like it would normally if it was actually overheating. It only seems to do it when I'm driving. It does return to cool after it is shut off. I think I got everything. I think it is the ECT but wondering if it could be something else or if I should be checking something else.
Sunday, April 17th, 2022 AT 10:29 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

It could be related to a faulty ECT, but that is rare. However, it certainly is a good suspect.

Is the coolant clean and full in both the radiator and the reservoir? When they fluctuate as you described, oftentimes they are low on coolant. Also, have you ever replaced the coolant thermostat?

If you haven't, that is where I would start. Here is a link that explains how in general it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

If you look below, I attached the directions and a pic of the location specific to your vehicle.

Let me know if this is something you have already done.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, April 17th, 2022 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thermostat has been replaced and there is sufficient coolant however the color isn’t looking so great. I suppose it doesn’t hurt to check the thermostat again. This car has been a nightmare. It was someone else’s project, and they removed some electrical stuff which is why I have no air conditioning. The thermostat is roughly two years old. I will be taking it to have it scanned today. I read it will throw a code for the ECT. My light was already on for something else so I could use that as a symptom.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, April 18th, 2022 AT 2:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

The ECT is an interesting sensor. It could be sending a wrong signal and not setting the check engine light. As long as the PCM receives a signal, it doesn't know if it is right or wrong. The easiest way to test it is with a live data scan tool. You can identify the temperature signal and determine if it is accurate or at least close to accurate.

If the thermostat is two years old and the coolant is somewhat dirty, it may not be a bad idea to replace it.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, April 18th, 2022 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Okay. So, I ran a scanner on it and got P0125. Everything I read points to the ECT or thermostat or coolant level (this is okay). I noticed one more issue today. When I turned my heat to max, there is nothing coming out of the vents. So now what? Thermostat?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 20th, 2022 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I was reading through some of the posts and came across something similar to mine and they were told removing the thermostat will prevent the car from overheating. Is that true?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 20th, 2022 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

When you say nothing is coming through the vent, do you mean no heat or no fan?

As far as the thermostat goes, I never recommend that unless it's an emergency. If the engine doesn't warm up fast enough, it will set an emissions code. On the other hand, removal of the thermostat opens the coolant flow completely which, believe it or not, causes it to overheat because the coolant moves through the radiator too fast.

Interestingly, I looked up the code you provided after writing the above info. The code is exactly what I described. The engine isn't warming up within a predetermined amount of time. Take a look at pic 1 below.

I would start with replacing the thermostat, which can be stuck open. Take a look through this link and let me know if you are comfortable performing it.

Note: The code is emissions-related because the vehicle stays in what is called an open-loop. This will cause the PCM to use a predetermined setting to run the engine which likely will burn more fuel.

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 20th, 2022 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Okay, so, I did fix the problem. Turns out I had a coolant leak which caused the thermostat to stay open. However, now I have a new issue. Upon moving it, it just shut off. Checked the fuses and one was blown so replaced it, but it continues to blow the fuse when I try starting it. I think my fuel pump runs on it. I don’t have the right diagram for my fuse panel. The guy I bought it from gave me a 1996 owner’s manual and my mechanic told me what I have isn’t right. Could you start with providing the correct diagram for mine. 1997 Mustang V6 3.8L. Then I'm going to help in trying to figure out where I have a short and how to fix it. It is blowing the fuses on the same blade of each fuse I try.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, May 3rd, 2022 AT 6:10 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

The fuel pump fuse is in the under-hood fuse box. I attached a pic of the fuse box below. However, I have a favor to ask. We try to keep the threads specific to one topic, so they are more helpful to others. Would you consider starting a new post with the electrical problem? All you need to do is copy and paste your new question to the new thread. Here is the link to start a new question:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

I hope you understand. When you start the new thread, let me know if the fuel pump fuse is correct so I can start going through wiring schematics.

I hope you understand.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, May 3rd, 2022 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
KMBRLY6782
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thank you for the diagram. I did post the question under a new thread with issue as electrical. I also bought a multimeter last night assuming I will need one to find where the shortage is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 4th, 2022 AT 3:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,644 POSTS
Hi,

Thank you for doing that and letting me know. I always feel bad asking, but it does benefit others as well.

Take care and thank you,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, May 4th, 2022 AT 2:43 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links