Valve cover gasket and manifold gasket replacement torque specs

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

The valve covers should be torques to 10 Nm or 89 inch pounds. I have attached a picture of the torque sequence.

The lower intake is the same 10 Nm or 89 inch pounds. I have attached the torque sequence for this also.

For the upper intake, the torque is the same, 10 Nm or 89 inch pounds. Picture 3 is of the torque sequence.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi Joe, thank you this helps a great deal. I am going to do it tomorrow but I actually today is 2:00 am. One more question for as removing be, bolts from valve gasket, is there a specific way of doing it or you just take them off? Someone was telling me you have to tighten them then loosen them then take them off. And as far as the o-rings is it at torque setting for them? Thank you Joe. When I start doing this I will add pictures and video. Hope to help someone else. Thanks Joe. Kenny

Sorry for the misprint.

Welcome back. I am glad to help. Honestly never heard of tightening before removing. It is not listed in the manual either, so I have to say, no. As far as the o-rings, can you tell me which ones specifically you are referring to?

Let me know.
Take care,
Joe

Hey Joe thank you the o-rings are the two on the air intake manifold. See in picture 2 black round on left side.

Hey guys thank you very much you guys are awesome. I got everything done. Except valve cover gaskets. Just going to finish changing them now. Finally got the correct torque wrench it was a hard to find. An extra thanks for the torque setting. I was having a problem figuring that out. It only took two hours not bad for a beginner first time working on a Jaguar. Now, I am going to go finish the valve cover gaskets. Thank you. Kenny

Hi Kenny:

Looks like you nearly got this finished. I hope the information I gave you helped. If you have any problems or questions, let me know.

Good job!

Joe

Thank you very much guys, mission accomplished. Semper Fi. Kenny

Glad to help. Take care and keep us in mind when you need anything.

Joe

Okay awesome will do thank you guys. Kenny

Hey Joe, I am back again. I have a code p1000 in my car not sure what that code means. Question since I replaced everything how many miles is a drive cycle for my car? Thanks Kenny

Hi Kenny:
I attached the meaning behind that code. I believe it will reset itself once all the drive cycles have completed. This is most likely the result of clearing codes or the battery being disconnected.

OBD SYSTEM READINESS - ENGINE MANAGEMENT
If DTC P1000 is flagged after DTCs have been cleared, all engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles have not been completed.

If the car is running good, drive it until this resets or all system monitors have reset.

Let me know if you have questions.

Joe

Hey Joe thank you, I just drove it about seventy miles ABS light came back on after I change one ABS sensor front left. Engine light did not come back on as of yet. So I am going to drive it tomorrow another one hundred miles and I am going to change the other ABS sensor right side front. I hope that is it. My deadline for sticker is Monday the car runs like it is brand new after I make all of the changes and improvements. Look at this gas filter I changed it today never seen black gas before. Unbelievable. The car runs awesome now. It was cutting off at stop light so I felt it was the gas filter and I was right. I just picked the car up five weeks ago. Thank you Joe.

Hey Joe hope all is well. I have one more question please. I had a code c1155 which is the front left speed sensor on 2003 Jaguar X Type 2.5 L. I change the sensor the code went out but the ABS brake light is on and I driven one hundred and fifty miles. Code c1155 is out which is great. I have driven one hundred and fifty miles. The ABS brake light is on only code I have is p1000. How do I get the ABS light to go out and the code p1000? Thank you

The P1000 code means that not all of the monitor tests like EVAP or Catalyst have run. You would need to use the scan tool to see which one(s) have not run, then complete the drive cycle for it.
On the ABS code, if it is on there is a problem, ABS is a constant monitor system so if you repair the problem the light should go out within a few minutes of drive time.

Hey Steve, thank you very much that was very helpful. I will look into it deeper maybe it is the cable itself. Or maybe wireless loose because you are absolutely right it did go out within a few minutes and after. I Replace it. Then I drove about hundred miles it came back on. C1155 same one front left.

The harness wires like to break internally, usually up at the top near the bracket on the frame. Or in areas that flex in a small spot. I have repaired so many ABS harnesses on vehicles I can almost "see" the break through the wires because of knowing what to look for. I also will simply grab the connector and pull. If the wire is broken internally the insulation will hourglass over the break.

Cool thank you Steve, I will let you know how it went. I am going to do it after work today check it out. Thank you, Kenny

Hey Steve, I hope all is well. When I press the gas or I am driving I hear a whining noise from right side of engine I see power steering fluid coming from somewhere. Power steering unit is always wet outside with power steering fluid thinking it was the power steering but it sounds like it is the right side of the engine. Sound gets louder as you press on the gas. And then it seems like at high speed I cannot hear it at all.

Any ideas what that might be is it the power steering you think? Kenny

If it is always wet it is likely a bad line that is leaking or a bad seal on the pump. The noise could be from low fluid.

Hey Steve, thank you. I will check the line. The fluid is full I actually siphon the dirty fluid and filled with new. It is still wet so it must be a line somewhere. I will let you know the outcome. Thanks

An easy way to find it is to wipe up or wash off the fluid that is there, then dust the area with baby powder. Start the engine and look for the spot(s) that get wet.

Awesome, thank you for that. I did not even think of that. Kenny

Hi guys, hope all is well. I am still having a problem I have a code C1155 which is the left front wheel speed sensor. I change that. The light went out for about 120 miles then it came back on and stayed on. Then I change the harness nothing happened light still on. I drove two minutes and it came back on and I continue to drive for on 80 miles, light still on. Second problem I hear a whining noise on the right side of the engine when I press on the gas. I am thinking it may have something to do with the AC. Can you help me guys? I surely appreciate it thank you, Kenny

The speed sensor issue sounds like a bad magnetic encoder on the wheel bearing itself. They can crack and cause codes. The only good way to see that damage on those style units is to connect an oscilloscope or a very good graphing multi-meter to the sensor at the hub and then rotate the wheel and watch for the signal to change in shape. A common voltmeter is not going to read the break because it is a very small change and only for an instant.

Hey Steve, thank you very much. I am going to look into that I have never even heard of one of those, but I am not a mechanic. I am a chef, but I do love working on my own car to save money. Thank you. I will let you know how it turns out. Kenny

They are fairly common on that bearing design, they are also somewhat fragile. You need to be as careful as baking a souffle when installing them. Also be careful to install the bearing the correct direction, if you install it with the shield toward the sensor, you get to do it twice. However I would try to test it first. Even a cheap single channel scope will work if you wanted to DIY. A scan tool is somewhat useless as it would not show the break either.

Hey Steve, thank you. It tested out the bearings magnetic so I ordered some I will put them on this weekend. I hope I can get a sticker after this that is the only code I had. But when I first began I had about six codes then I change the coils the plugs the valve cover gaskets the manifold gasket upper and lower clean all the electrical connections change the breather hose which had a big split in the bottom of it change most of the radiator hoses. Then all the codes went away except to C1155. So I should be good. I will keep you informed.

Just be careful about the direction and installing the bearing, no hammer use on install, just the correct bearing tools, that encoder ring is real easy to damage.
It sounds like you are getting there. Keep us in the loop.

Hey Steve, hope all is well. Thank you guys, I took bearing out and I decided to take it to the shop and have them press it out and press it in it was only $30.00 each I figure better safe than sorry. So I am going to drive the car today I think that problem should be solved I have another problem. How do I test the dual cooling fan for the AC to see if it is bad. Thank you. Kenny

Hey Steve, I am so sad right now after replacing both of the bearings went out drove the car this morning both codes came on c1155 and C 1156 both wheel sensors. Before I only had one c1155 I was told when you change wheel sensors or anything electrical you have to reset/reboot the system is that so and if so how do I do it. I am thinking the guy put the bearings in backwards but it did not look like he did. I do not understand why both codes would come up. Help, need your advice. Thank you, Kenny

Well, that is not good. You should not need to reset anything as long as the sensors are correct and the bearings are in the correct direction. I do not see a C1156 just the 1155. But it still says it is a wiring/sensor issue. About the only thing to do would be to connect a scan tool and watch the speeds reported to the system. All four corners should match. If you have three that say you are driving at 30 and one says zero then there is something wrong.

Hey Steve, thank you very much I am going to try that in the middle of the week if I cannot get to it tomorrow after work. Will keep you informed. Thank you, Kenny

Steve W. is one of our best! please let us know what happens. Cheers, Ken

Hey Ken and Steve thank you very much guys, I have another question what tools do I need to change the front lower control arms on a 2003 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 liter. and are they any special instructions. Thank you guys. sensor light still on a friend of mine told me it maybe new sensor he said I can't get the aftermarket ones I have to get the factory ones does that make any sense. I look forward to your answers thank you very much hope all. Kenny

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Cheers, Ken

Have you had any luck with the speed sensor issue? I have seen a few times where you had to use a "factory" part to get things to work. Not often but it was usually on Euro vehicles.
Control arms, biggest thing is to not torque the fasteners fully down without the vehicle at ride height. Be sure to check out all the other pieces as well, if you already have it apart things like ball joints and sway bar bushings are easier to get at and change.

Morning Steve, no luck with ABS sensor I just purchased one form international parts light still on. Hope it not the module. Question, do you know which type transmission fluid for my car? I am getting 2 code at AutoZone do not know which one 2003 Jaguar X Type 2.5 liter AWD. Thanks, Kenny

Well, that transmission is listed as a filled for life unit. It takes WSS-M2C922A1 rated fluid. It is not a common fluid for parts stores to carry. Ravenol J1D2109 ATF is one of the few that meets the JATCO standard. You can also get it from a Ford dealer if you specify the WSS part number above.