Turn signals work intermittently?

Hi,

It sounds like the combination flasher is going bad. The idea that it works and then doesn't with a delay in restarting leads me to think it is overheating.

As far as grounds are concerned, they are at different locations. I wouldn't think all would fail at the same time. So, the flasher is my first suspect.

If you look below, I attached the directions for replacing the flasher.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

Wow! The OEM part is showing much less. If you look below, I attached the parts and labor for the replacement of the unit.

The part number has been highlighted.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

The horn does add new thoughts to the equation. As far as the fast flash you experience, that is usually an indicator that there is a failed bulb.

Have you checked connections under the dash from the steering column? Also, when the horn doesn't work, does the airbag lamp turn on as well?

Joe

By chance, could you video tape the flash you mentioned above? I would be interested in seeing what happens.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Sounds like a plan. By the way, has the part (flasher) come yet? I have high hopes that will fix the issue.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi guys. These symptoms reminded me of finding this problem on three or four of these vans at the dealership. The problem was caused by the excessive weight of the flasher pulling it down out of its socket. Simply pushing it back into place solved the problem temporarily, but the better fix was to tie it in place with a nylon tie strap.

That's my contribution for today.

Thank you for the update, and excellent job Caradiodoc! That one went right over me. LOL I assumed the relay was just failing. Regardless, I'm glad to know you found the issue.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

I only know a few things, and that flasher was one of them.

For the horn, grounds are not the issue. A broken ground would stop a circuit from working, but due to insufficient or no current flow. You have an issue of too much current flow.

When you say the fuse blows instantly, do you mean as soon as you plug it in, or when the horn button is pressed? If it doesn't blow until you press the button, a shorted horn is the best suspect. They're under the driver's side headlamp housing. The fastest way to identify this is to unplug both horns, replace the fuse, then verify the horn relay clicks when you press the horn switch. If it does, everything else in that circuit has to be working. Now plug in one horn and try it. If the fuse blows, that's the one that's shorted. There's a "Lo" or a "Hi" molded on it to denote its tone.

If the one horn works, it will sound sick by itself, but you should be able to tell if it's the low or high note. Replacement horns were rather expensive, so the people in my parts department started stocking universal replacement horns for about one third the cost. They came with multiple mounting brackets and hardware. You can also find used horns at a salvage yard, but they did have a pretty high failure rate in the mid '90s. Keep in mind a used one might develop the same problem.

If we need to dig deeper, Joe is going to have you start a new question, and he can help you solve this there. We like to keep the topics in separate questions to make them easier to categorize for others' research. If I see it, I'll wait in case you need more of my wondrous advice.