Turn signal

Tiny
BRENT MCMURREN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HONDA RIDGELINE
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 340,000 MILES
My right turn signal does not work at all, no blinking
steps taken;
removed turn signal relay and checked pins, all ok except pin 5. Have 10 volts without moving right hand signal. Goes to about 3 when I engage right hand signal.
tried combination signal control switch. No change.

Where should I look next?
Thanks
Brent
Tuesday, May 31st, 2016 AT 6:07 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
When you say signal relay, are you referring to the flasher? Was it replaced or just checked? If the light comes on but does not blink (as you described) then the flasher is not working
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2016 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
BRENT MCMURREN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I removed the turn signal relay from the under dash fuse box. I then checked the 6 pins on the fuse box. That is where I had 10v on pin 5 without the turn signal on. It should be 0v then 10v when turn signal on. This eliminated the relay. I then tried the actual turn signal combination switch on the steering column but this did not correct the situation. Now I am wondering if it could be the micu ( I am not sure where located yet). To be clear; when I signal left all works and blinks correct. If right, then nothing happens, if hazard then only left blink.
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2016 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Here is the testing procedure

Inspect the relay and fuse/relay box socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
If the terminals look OK, Go to step 4.
Do the following input tests:
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the turn signal/hazard relay must be faulty; replace it.

CAVITY TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHART

Cavity Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
6 Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
Blown No. 16(15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
An open or high resistance in the wire
1 In all ignition switch positions Check for continuity to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
Poor ground (G501)
Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
An open or high resistance in the wire
2 Connect terminal No. 6 to terminal No. 2 with a jumper wire. Check the turn signal lights operation: The left turn signal lights and indicator should come on.
Blown bulb
Poor ground (G601, G301) or an open in the ground wire
An open or high resistance in the wire
3 Connect terminal No. 6 to terminal No. 3 with a jumper wire. Check the turn signal lights operation: The right turn signal lights and indicator should come on.
Blown bulb
Poor ground(G201, G602) or an open in the ground wire
An open or high resistance in the wire
4 Ignition switch ON (II) and turn signal switch in Left position. Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 10 V.
Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
Faulty turn signal switch
Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
An open or high resistance in the wire
Faulty combination switch control unit
(1)
Faulty MICU
(1)
5 Ignition switch ON (II) and turn signal switch in Right position. Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 10 V.
4 Hazard warning switch ON Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 10 V.
Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
Blown No. 16 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
Faulty hazard warning switch
An open in the wire
Faulty MICU

Let me know how it goes

Best, Ken
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
BRENT MCMURREN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
This is telling me I am on the right track because this is exactly what I did. The Pin 5 read 10V before I turned the signal switch to the right. After I turned it to the right, The voltage dropped to about 3 to 3 1/2. This why I tried the signal switch and the combination unit.

Couple of other things to note. I replaced the 7 pin trailer plug. I am not sure if this might be related. It looks ok as I double checked. 2 other interesting items I found today in relation,
1 I have put in a back up camera which was working and coincidence, not any more. It is attached to each side wire of the back up lights and worked 100%. I disconnected to ground side and went straight to ground and it started working. When put back, quit again.
2. The truck has had a trailer brake module ever since I had the truck. I do notice there is no power to the unit now. Not sure if there might be a fuse related to all this but not sure which one to check.

The deeper I go the more I find but I have a feeling it is going to be something easy stupid.

Hope this helps with the info I have given you to see what I might possibly do next. After that might have to be the dealer
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Please follow the power lead of the trailer brake to see where it plugs in, this could be the problem. I think the back up lights could be the ground so please double check it.
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Thursday, June 2nd, 2016 AT 6:13 PM

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