Be aware there are at least three versions of starter solenoids for Ford products. The one for your truck has just one small terminal on top. If it has two, one design is for use with a neutral safety switch on an automatic transmission. That one will work if you ground the second small terminal. A different part number uses that second terminal for an ignition resistor bypass. That function is done differently on your truck. In that case you do not have to do anything with the second terminal.
If you have the correct solenoid and it has just one small terminal, that unit must be bolted solidly to the body to work. The mounting bracket is the ground connection for the internal coil.
The single smaller terminal on top should be on the same side as the large copper stud that connects to the battery positive cable. It is common for that large copper nut to work loose over time.
You should see a red/light blue wire plugged onto the smaller terminal. Pull that off, then use a jumper wire to connect that terminal to the positive battery cable, either at the battery or on that large stud on the side of the solenoid. That should make it engage and the starter should crank the engine. Be sure the transmission is not in gear, otherwise you will look funny chasing after the truck! If that works, the high-current part of the circuit is working.
Next, check for twelve volts on that red/light blue wire when a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank". If it is not there, locate the clutch interlock switch near the clutch pedal under the dash and check there on both wires. They are both red/light blue. If you find it on one wire, the ignition switch is okay. If you do not find it on the second one, suspect that switch is defective. If it looks like that switch is bad, unplug it, then use a small piece of wire or stretched-out paper clip to jump the two wires together. That will bypass the switch, then it should crank without having to push the clutch pedal.
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Friday, June 8th, 2018 AT 11:04 PM
