Transmission will not shift?

Tiny
SMMARCANTEL
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
Initially I was going down the road at 55 mph and suddenly the car down shifted to second (4-speed automatic) and was stuck there. I drove it for about fifteen miles and it would not shift out of second. The next day it was fine, shifting in all gears. About a week later I was going down the road about 20-25 mph and the car just shut off. At first it would crank but not start. After about five attempts it started and I took off but after shifting into second it would not shift anymore and has remained this way. When I park it and then start it an take off again, it shifts from first to second and no further. When I get to a stop sign and take off it is still in second until I put it in park and take off again and then it goes from first to second but no more. No shifting to third or fourth.
Sunday, February 17th, 2019 AT 3:03 PM

37 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

The first thing I would do is verify the battery is good. Low voltage will cause this issue. Make sure the battery load tests good and the cables are clean and tight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Is the check engine light on?

When was the last time you changed the fluid?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Roy
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
SMMARCANTEL
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  • 2 POSTS
I tried all these things. The battery is good, alternator charging normally, connections cleaned, transmission fluid-level fine, fluid viscosity good, fluid recently changed etc. Check engine light not on and d4 not blinking. Now the car is shifting fairly well when it is cold like in the morning then after seven to ten miles it will start down shifting and stay in second gear. A friend suggested it was the speed sensor but I haven't tried that yet and someone else said it could be the TCM. There is no plug-in for an obd anywhere. All fuses appear to be good. What should I do?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
At this point, I would take it to a transmission shop and have them check it for you since you cannot determine the issue on your own.

Sounds like a valve body issue from here. If it were electronic, it would code.

Roy
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
JTATE22153
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
When I start the car it runs fine but about 15 20 mins go by and it starts to down shift it will hold the rpms high but if I let off the gas or press it harder it will go up and down but the rpms r way off but the crazy thing is that if I disconnect the bat. Then re connect it it works fine for about the same time until its warm
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi jtate22153,

Is the D4 light showing and blinking when the problem occurs?

Symptoms indicates a possible fault with the TCM or its circuits.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JTATE22153
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No lights come on d4 does not blink
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Get the Throttle Position Sensor checked. A voltage test would be able to determine if it is at fault.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAGUY202
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 214,000 MILES
Hello and thanks in advance for any and all help.
I have a 94 Honda Accord EX with 214000 miles on it. The car runs good, trans shifts smooth for about an hour or 30 to 40 miles of freeway driving. Then on the freeway the trans will downshift in to second gear and stay there, then the next day it starts all over again, runs fine until freeway for an hour. I have tried to test the TCM but get no blinking from the D4 light. The trans oil is a bit brown but no burnt smell at all. I changed the trans fluid with Honda ATF-Z1 trans fluid. I'm testing it now to see if that helps.
Any ideas what it could be and how to test for it?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi hondaguy202,

Seems the TCM is faulty and locking the shift solenoids.

When stuck in 2nd speed, does restarting the engine make any changes?

Did you try locating for fault codes without turning the engine off when it happened?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAGUY202
  • MEMBER
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Restarting the engine has a temp fix for it. The longer it sits the better it gets. No I have not tried getting codes from the TCM at the time of the downshift. Can you just jump the pins any time or will that hurt the system? The TCM was high on my list of what it could be, my though was that after an hour or so some of the IC in the TCM would malfunction and cause the unwanted downshift. Do you know of a way I can test to see if it is TCM/electronic parts or a hydraulic issue i.E. A blown seal for a plug screen or passage that is causing it to go into limp mode.
Thanks
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi hondaguy202,

You can jump the SCS anytime without causing any harm whatsoever.

Seals, fluid pressure and clutches would not cause it to go into limp mode. Only electrical faults can.

The only way to test if it is the TCM is to substitute 1. You do not have any error codes so it is not possible to test if it is TCM, sensors or solenoids.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAGUY202
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I jumped the 2P connector, swiched on the key and watched the D4 light, but it did do anything. Should the D4 light do something to let me know that it is in test mode?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CDS86VETTE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 246,547 MILES
The transmission will not shift. You can manually shift into 1st grear then shift into drive. Replaced Transmission, same problem. Replaced all 4 Shift Solenoids, same problem, Replaced Transmission computer ( three different times), same problem, Replaced both sensors, same problem. Now here is a different twist. You can take the battery loose, wait about two minutes, reconect the cable. Now the transmission will operate like it should. It may take ten miles to fault out or it may take a hundred miles before it faults out. When the transmission faults the D4 lite will stay on until you disconnect the battery. Then can drive for a while OK.

Any help?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAGUY202
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok I found a better jumper and found so trouble codes
D4 code 15:Disconnected mainshaft speed sensor, shorted speed sensor or faulty speed sensor
Check engine code 22: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch.
But I don't see how ether of those could cause the AT to downshift into second after an hour of freeway driving.
Thank you for all your input.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi CDs86Vette,

Thank you for the donation.

When the D4 light comes on, does it go off if you restart the engine?

Did you try to retrieve for trouble codes?

Since the TCM was replaced 3 times, the possibility of it being the cause is rather low, unless there are changes in the symptoms.

I would lean more towards a bad connection somewhere.

Test the Throttle Position Sensor to see if it is working within specs.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi hondaguy202,

The mainshaft sensor or its circuit might be working when it is cold and after some running it fails causing the TCM to go into limp mode. That is the reason it downshifts to 2nd speed. It could be a faulty TCM causing the circuit failure.

The VTEC malfunction should have nothing to do with the trans. It would affect the performance of the engine only. However engine performance would affect the shifting of the trans.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CDS86VETTE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The D4 light will stay on until the computer is reset.

I have been unable to get any codes when the D4 light is on. I may be doing it wrong.

I have checked all the connections that I can find and they appear to be good.

Could the ECM be causing this problem?

With all that I have replaced or missed with the symptoms have not changed.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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The D4 light staying ON till after resetting indicates a faulty TCM. If it is a wiring fault or any other problem, the D4 light would not come on after restarting. I might come on after some driving.

Did you bridge the SCS connector to retrieve the trouble code?
Were the replaced TCM of the correct P/N?
Were they rebuilt or used?
The ECM is linked to the TCM and could possibly be causing it if there is a fault with the power supply.

Check the ECM harness connectors for possible contaminations or loose contact.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RWS68
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
When I drive down road full throttel the car wont shift into next gear, let up on gas an it will. It sounds like a rev limiter not letting it shift. You can also do this while in park rev up and starts popping like rev limiter is not letting you tac all the way. Checked distributer plugs wires cat, converter fuel pump fuel filter changed trans fluid changed cdi box checked adj. Cable from fuel injection to trans. What could it be. Helpppppp
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Hi rws68,

At what rpm does the engine cuts off when revving it?

How did you adjust the trans throttle pressure cable?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)

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