Transmission not shifting?

Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
My car will not move in first gear once warmed up. Works okay cold. Took out solenoids and cleaned filters in one. Only one filter had any trash and was not totally clogged. All tested to work. When I put them back in and ran the car, it shifted normally when first driven, as though this fixed the problem, but D4 light was flashing. Once it was restarted, the D4 light no longer flashed and shifting went right back to not having first gear. Other gears shift normally. Have to manually select second to get going once the car is warmed up. It will not go when first is manually selected either. It can be put in first but barely can move much at all even when revved. Acts like torque converter has no fluid when warmed up or that fluid is too light a weight. First gear only.
Just got car for junk price, from "little old lady" who did not drive it much and knows nothing about it or what she might have done or had done.
Gambling that it can be fixed without spending a fortune.
Reset ECU by pulling battery cable. No change.
How will overfilling affect this? Dipstick shows it to be way over full. How much I cannot tell.
Engine light is on. Transmission fluid looks like new, red and clean and no sign of debris. Donot have any idea of what kind of fluid is in there.
This is DIY only project. No shops or dealers, so exact and correct answers are needed and appreciated.
Took car to parts house and had them run their scanner. It returned the following codes:
P1491 - Emissions.
P0705 - Range sensor circuit malfunction.
P0706 - Transmission Circuit Range/Performance.
These seem to indicate Neutral Safety Switch problem.
Swapped the old switch out for a new one. Set it to click (neutral) and installed with transmission in neutral. That took a couple of tries to get the gearshift lights to come back on.
Result was that it operated exactly like the old switch - no first gear, no matter if D4, D3, or first gear is selected. Information found, as well as diagnostic codes, all direct me to the "neutral safety switch".
Still have no first gear. How to get it to work is the question. First gear only works when the car is first started and the fluid is cold. Once warmed up it does not. No problems shifting between other gears once first is bypassed. Having to take off in second then shift to D3 and/or D4.
Can overfilling the fluid do this? Which solenoid can cause this?
Neutral safety switch does not look like it is the problem. Even though the error codes pointed to this part as the issue, replacing it with a new unit did not fix problem. Click stop is not audible. Can be felt when devices are rotated, but not heard. Car will not move until this click is set.
The car runs fine escept it has no first gear after initial warm up. It will only pull the first few minutes while the fluid is cold. Might this be the indicator of what the problem actually is? If it can pull with cold fluid, then the transmission itself is probably not bad.
Can overfilling the fluid do this?
Is it possible that a solenoid is the culprit? If so which solenoid(s) can cause this? Please post diagram. Only found one that had screens/filters. Cleaned it even though it was not dirty. When it was put back in, the car drove normally on first startup but the D4 light blinked. I restarted the car and the D4 light went out and so did first gear.
Fluid is healthy red.
Need information for this model with this exact problem. Did extensive searching on web for information on this without success. No information on having first gear only, not working.
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 6:30 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Codes are listed. Need something more definite than what it "may" be. This is a DIY project. No shops or dealers affordable.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Unfortunately with transmissions normally if it is an electrical code it will send it even though it may be a clutch pak or valve body problem. However, you are sending a range circuit malfunction which tells the computer which gear you are in so try a new switch, but it still may not be the problem. Especially with the mileage on it. for the 1491 follow picture instructions and try to clean EGR if it does not clear it. THis gudie can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you.
That diagram is helpful. It is going take me a while to try all the solenoids and sensors, but this definitely is useful information. Need to let the snow stop before I am working on this again, but will post the results when I get them.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Well I am sure if you replace the switch a lot of it will be cured instead of messing around with stuff like solenoids. It probably does not know what gear it is in causing your problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
To what switch are you referring? If you are talking about the "neutral safety switch"? Please re-read the question.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Same one as mentioned in original question. I swapped that out with a new one. No change.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 4:52 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
Drain out the fluid and refill to the correct level. For now you can use what is in it. Once we get your shift issue fixed then you can change it out. Do not try to do the pressure tests with it overfull.

The codes say circuit malfunction. There are a lot of other transmission codes that indicate that the internal solenoids are not working. In this case the codes are not for internal transmission parts but for the external control circuits.

As such you will want to verify the actual wiring harness for damage first. When the problem happens does the gear indicator for first gear stay lit?
Look at the picture. Put the car in first gear and check for continuity between pin three (red wire/white stripe which changes to black at the connector and is a ground connection that goes to the engine at the left front) to pin four (brown wire which tells the indicator and PCM you want first gear).
Follow the harness and be sure that wire is not near the exhaust or engine block or has been damaged. Inside the car it has a splice that sends a signal to the dash gear indicator and goes to pin fifteen in the D connector on the PCM, (it will be next to a blue wire and a green one in the sixteen pin connector). If that wire is intermittent you would lose first gear. Heat causes expansion so if it was broken inside the insulation it could open when hot. (Easy way to test it would be to run a bypass wire from the wire on the transmission to the PCM connector)
Now if the wire tests out okay the issue will almost have to be inside the PCM.

All of the above should sort out the electronic codes.

To check the mechanical parts you need a pressure gauge that reads to at least 300 psi.
Look at the second picture. With the engine and transmission warm.
Connect a pressure gauge to the line pressure test port. Start the engine and bring it up to 2000 rpm. Line pressure should read 120-135 psi. With the transmission in Park or Neutral.
Low pressure usually points to a bad pump or torque converter.

Shut down and remove the gauge. Connect it to the first clutch inspection port.
Start up and bring it up to 2000 rpm again. With the transmission in first gear the pressure should read the same as the line pressure test.
If it does not you have a problem with the first gear clutch, first gear accumulator or a transfer port is blocked.

For the 1491 EGR code. Great diagnostic from Honda. It is a. Pdf file.
Www. Driveaccord. Net/forums/attachment. Php?Attachmentid=14258&d=1218558434
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 26th, 2017 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
BBHANK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
This rocks! Thank you much. It's gonna take a few days due to bad weather in this part of the world before I can start on this but will post results to share with folks who need it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 27th, 2017 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
BTDT, always seemed like the days I'd get called for a no start it was either raining and windy, or snowing and below zero. Boy do I miss that. NOT!

Be sure to post back either way.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 27th, 2017 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
RDRGURU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 1999 Honda Accord with the 2.3 Liter and automatic transmission. Today, my wife was backing the car into the garage and started to back up fine, pulled forward slightly to re-position, and when she went to put it back into reverse, it would not go. You could hear it attemt to engage but no joy. Listened to the solenoid and with the engine off, going from neutral to drive, you hear the solenoid engage, and shifting back to neutral, you hear it disengage. As far as reverse, you hear it engage and then immeditally disengage while lever is in the reverse position. I am relativly sure that the solenoid is faulty, but is there any other way to troubleshoot this?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi rdrguru,

Possible causes for the problem are :

Shift Fork Shaft Stuck
Modulator Valve Defective
Reverse CPC Valve Defective
4th Accumulator Defective
4th Clutch Defective
Reverse Gears Worn/Damaged

Often it is the 4th clutch that is faulty.
If you are able to go for a test drive and finds that 4th gear is slipping, then that would confirm the problem.

If it is a solenoid fault, the D4 light should be blinking when vehicle is iin motion and this would be recorded in the PCM.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THE ANSWER MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Check to see if your vehicle falls under a transmission warranty extension by Honda. I can't remember for sure if it was 150000 or 170000 miles or 10 years.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEMARIE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
1999 honda accord, 4 cylinder about 75,000 sounds like a race car but only when moving so it's not the muffler. Some think it's not changing gears because of the sound and they can't feel it. But I believe it is changing gears and I believe I can feel it. Any suggestions.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Not sure I understand the moving and the muffler correlation, but I think I understand the noisey issue.

I would put a rag on the exhaust tailpipe and then check by sound and feel for exhaust leaks. They could be exhaust manifold related or resonator, etc. If there are no leaks, the exhaust heat shields are where I would go to next.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TONYL6596
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,000 MILES
My car struggles to get up to highway speed and is not shifting properly.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi tonyl6596,

Thank you for the donation.

The description of the symptoms are not clear for us to understand the situation and I would like to know the following.

1. Struggling to get to highway speeds.
Can you explain in more details?
Is engine revving but vehicle speed is not increasing fast enough?

2. Not shifting properly. Do you mean the shifts are delayed?

Apart from above :

3. Is the Check Engine Lamp indicating while driving?
4. Do you have any noticeable components that is not functioning? Eg, speedometer not working etc.
5. Did you check the transmission fluid?
6. Was any repairs done prior to the problem occurring?
7. Is there anything that you think might help us to understand the problem?

My feeling after reading your question is that the problem is more likely to due to engine rather than transmission.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TONYL6596
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
That is exactly what is happening
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TONYL6596
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The engine is revving buit it is not accelerating the shifts are delayed. The maintainence required light is on but it has been on for years.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Get a free scan done at Autozone and let me know the exact trouble codes retrieved.

The CEL can mean more than 1 possible fault and previously it could be something not related to the transmission but now additional trouble codes might be present.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TONYL6596
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The codes that came back are:P0172.P0420.P1259
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 11:23 AM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links