Transmission shifting issues

There used to be a delay on the original transmission, but the used one does not appear to have that issue now. I thought that as well. When you talk about pressure and the shaft regulator bored and the input nut which they say if that was lost then you would definitely have that delay, as well as hard shifting for the reverse gear. Which it is not doing.

Pretty much the same thing but including the reverse not even engaging.

Just curious though is the transmission on a 01sl2 the same kind of transmission on a 02 sc2?

I ask because the only video I could find on YouTube on how to tighten the input shaft nut was on a 01 sl2.

And yes to your other question. Which also included a loss in the reverse gear before all of this happened. I should also mention it was getting weird, I guess best way to describe it, a double shift when I would give it more acceleration, when it would gear down. Kind of harsh in some cases when shifting.

Oh, and with the old transmission that was original, started work on the car I was just getting one code for second gear ratio incorrect. Then when we started taking a look at things to try to diagnose the key problem that that code went away and a third gear ratio incorrect at that point popped up. That is when we started to drop the original transmission out. It broke down and in the midst of the breaking down we noticed a couple other things. The radiator had breached with the transmission cooler and was letting water in to that transmission. Next there was a fair amount of metal shavings which we came across needles from one of the needle bearings, but I do not think that was the man issue. After replacing the radiator under warranty, and also checking/fixing the wire harness on the valve body pan. It was at that point that I ended up getting all the gears on a ratio incorrect.

Replaced the whole connector together. I did notice while I was doing that, there were other wires that had been spliced prior to me owning the vehicle. Which it appeared they either went to the knock sensor, crank shaft sense or the, and correct if I am wrong, but vehicle speed sensor since from what I researched there is also a turbine speed sensor which is located on the transmission.

Yeah you will have to give me a little bit, because I am not with the car and I have to remove the intake and battery rack which I know only take like fifteen minutes. I will definitely will get some pictures for you, and I think that the harness prior to me replacing it head also been replace once before.

I need help I feel like I have done everything I can and still have not fixed my problem.

So should I still check the sensor or no? And if I were to check the sensor what am checking ohm resistance or voltage or what?