Transmission will not shift?

You would also verify battery terminals are free of corrosion and installed properly. The thin positive cable is the one going to the relay box so if any corrosion there, you are going to have problems.

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.

It sounds like you will have a code or two in the computer can you please run the codes to see what comes up?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

hi my.name.is Miguel. i replaced my tranny or better yet rebuilt it with aamco.approx a year ago and have ran it approx 20000 miles since then. today on freeway the car gave me a hardshake and stalled i pulled to.the side an turned vehicle back on. it was stuck on 5th gear.it would not down shift and still won't. i stepp on pedal full throttle on it way to.60 it has no prob except it accelerates as if if i was stepping.on pedal 1/5 to 1/4 down check engine drove for ever turned on .only.dcause i.only.drove for approx 20 more miles thebl last 5 were street. thanks for any help

manual or automatic? if it's manual check fluid in trans make sure its 'full. your shift linkage may be jammed as well causing this or maybe a cable or rod broke. there are two cables that control shifting so have a local pro look at it.

Transmission shifts fine when cold, but when engine temperature warms up it won't shift out of first gear. The problem seems to reset and go back to normal after the engine is off for about 20-30 minutes or longer. Transmission fluid has been replaced and it is very clean.

Hi,

Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running? Also, there is a transmission fluid temperature sensor that can cause it to go into limp mode (basically what you experience).

Tell me if you have had the computer scanned to identify if there are any stored codes. Here is a list of OBD2 codes you may find of interest:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

Let me know. If you haven't had it scanned, I feel that is the next step simply because it could be the A/T temperature sensor is telling the computer that the transmission is overheating, it could be a line pressure sensor, and several other things.

Take care,

Joe

When the car heats up after you drive it for a little while or sit in traffic it wont shift out of first gear then if you turn it off and sit for a little while it works fine.

Hmmmm ... I see you asked last year about the same problem I'm having now ...

My 2001 Max trans has began to slip intermttently, but my dealer tech says he can find nothing mechanically wrong with it ... I had the fluid changed, it was not burned or dirty, and neither were there any fragments in it ... If I turn the car off, then restart, the car changes gears as it's always done ... Could there be a computer and/or sensor problem (but I've gotten no codes via service engine soon light)? ... Thanks ... Ray

I posted here just in case someone might see and know something about this.

Hi clandry ... If you get this in your e-mail can you tell me if you found out what the problem with your Max trans was? ... Thanks RR

I'm having this problem now. 720 is the code and it'll slip and not shift out of 1st/2nd gear turning the car on/off or letting it sit for a minute will resolve the shifting.

How did you repair this?

Shifting from second to drive at very low RPM’s the transmission “misses” shifting into drive at moderate to hard acceleration the transmission works perfectly. Have flushed the transmission ever 50,000 since new using B&G flush & conditioner and changed out two sensors. Was going to drop the pan and change the filter? The only time this issue occurs is when I accelerate approximately 10% or less. Any insight?

Hello,

This does sound like the revolution shaft sensor is out. can I ask if you replaced the sensor with an OEM unit? Lets run the codes to see. here is a guide with the sensor location in the diagrams below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Have changed the sensor in the past-worked for a while the when it went out I replaced it with a aftermarket part. I’ve just replaced the resister assembly and am due for a transmission flush anytime now. would you suggest me getting a Toshiba sensor over the other manufacturers? And I had thought about dropping the transmission pan and changing the filter although I flush it every 50,000 as advised with B&G “quick clean. and conditioner. Thanks For the help.

Yes, I would get an OEM sensor and replace it. Let me know what happens

Hey Ken I’ve got that part ordered and will install it upon arrival. The question about changing the transmission filter? Would you advise to? I’m sure those magnets are covered with “filings”? And is there any explanation about the IAC shorting out and frying the ECU? and/or is the “liquid” filled motor mounts tearing then shorting out and shorting out the ECU-as you see there has been many questions over the last(almost) 20 years keeping this vehicle on the road.Thank you

it is not shifting to third gear, and it is making a whistle sound and it is heavy after it gets hot.

This is sounding like an internal transmission problem, probably slipping under load, if you can, check the trans oil condition, if it is dark and smells burnt, you will be up for a re build or a new transmission, there is no magic fix in a bottle so do not waste any money with theses additives.

Serving the transmission is always a good idea. this guide will walk you through the steps:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

I'm not sure what you are saying about the shorted ECU? Did something happen wires shorted or IAC? did you fix it or?

Yes Ken you’ve explained “drain and fill” but first my 2001 doesn’t have a plug?-and I’m thinking it’s about time to change the filter and clean out the pan although I’m not having the issues the other Maxima owners are! To be continued.

Here are the fluid specs:

Fluid Types
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... NISSAN Matic "D"

Dextron III / Mercon ATF or equivalent may also be used.
Capacities


Automatic transmission fluid capacity

Capacity .................... 10 qt. (9.4L)


Did you replace the revolution sensor?

Haven’t changed Revolution Sensor (will when it comes in) on the ECU issue—when a motor mount shorts it can fry the ECU and if water gets under the gasket under the IAC it will fry out a ECU also-ask me how I know! I’ve read in Maxima forums to bypass the water inlet/exit lines on the IAC to “bypass”this problem and I’ve found out that the Stealership sells a bypass piece so the water doesn’t go in/out the IAC although the Check Engine light does come on TBC. Thanks Ken

Okay got ya, I am not sure how engine mounts can effect the electrical unless the ground strap between the engine and frame is missing. Let me know when you get the new sensor in.

When the car warms up and the weather is warm; 60 degrees or above sometimes the transmission will not change out of Low Gear. I had this same problem with a 2001 Maxima in 2017. Luckily found a shop that was familiar with the problem and was able to fix in 2-3 hours. Cost was $351.00 in August of 2017. That shop is out of business and I cannot find a shop that is familiar with this problem. I've learned that if I park and turn off the engine and let the systems cool down a bit. I can start the car and the transmission changes perfectly. But it does seem the issue is becoming More frequent. Can you help me or refer me to a repair shop in my area (Central N.C).

Hey Ken-got the sensor in a few minutes ago-an going to drop transmission pan and change the filter first-clean the magnet(s) and anything else.Quite some time ago I flushed the transmission and a large amount of “metal’ stucked to the end of the sensor-so before shorting out another one-I’ll do this other maintenance first.This Gen Maxima has “liquid filled” motor mounts-when you go faster electricity does something and firms up the mount-and when they tear it shorts out something (so I was told) that’s what fried the ECU? OR the IAC issue—but I have no clue-you’re the Master Tec TBC Thanks

I have seen this issue a number of times in other Nissan's. Normally it is the valve body is the issue. This would actually line up pretty close to the price that you paid to fix the other vehicle.

The valve body is what controls the direction of the pressurized fluid so that each gear is engaged properly. The fact that you shut it off and it starts operating properly points towards the solenoids or valves inside the unit as they are "resetting" when the pressure is relieved when you turn the engine off.

If it were me, I would take the valve body out and check the valve operation but just moving them in the bore to see if they are sticking.

As for a shop in NC, I am familiar with the area and there is a franchise that is all over down there called Christian Brothers. They are very well run shops and would recommend them over any other.

Here is the process of how to replace the valve body in case you need it.

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Okay, new one to me :) let me know if the sensor fixes it

My car stays in second gear doesn't slip just starts off in second and will not shift.

Good morning,

Are there any codes stored in the system?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

When was the last time yo changed the fluid and filter in the transmission?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Is the check engine light on? If it is, do you know the codes?

This sounds like it could be valve body related but need information at this point.

Roy

It said shift solenoid a an b check engine is on. I changed fluid and screen soon as I got it because it stayed in second gear from the start when I bought it a year ago.

It said?

I need the code numbers so I can look them up and see what the fault code indicates.

Roy

Stored code p0120.
Pending codes p1320 and p1760.

Okay, the 120 is for the throttle position sensor. This does control sifting and shift points for the transmission. You will need a scan tool to monitor the actual voltage when accelerating up and down.

The 1320 is for the engine side. It refers to possible coil issues.

The 1760 is for the over run solenoid in the valve body. It is possible that this is the issue of the throttle position sensor could be it as well.

You will need a scan tool that can read the transmission and activate the solenoids to see if they are working.

Roy

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
The throttle position sensor responds to the accelerator pedal movement. This sensor is a kind of potentiometer which transforms the throttle position into output voltage, and emits the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition, the sensor detects the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM.

Idle position of the throttle valve is determined by the ECM receiving the signal from the throttle position sensor. This sensor controls engine operation such as fuel cut. On the other hand, the "Wide open and closed throttle position switch", which is built into the throttle position sensor unit, is not used for engine control.

Sometimes you can be driving along and maybe make a quick stop like at a stop sign and when you take back off the transmission will not shift out of low gear tries but does not. it is like it does not have any other gears. Then you can pull off the road and shut it off for a minute maybe as long as five no more than ten minutes take back off and works fine until the next time. The traction control light is on and one that says slip, what could be the problem?

have this scanned for codes by a mechanic traction control may have some thing to do with it like a sensor bad. slip means it reads it's slipping and trying to apply traction control so it can change gears. with you turning key off then on and it seems to be okay then it sounds like an electrical problem.

Did you respond? I got an email and nothing showed up.

Roy

I have a new TPS and a new mass flow sensor. I read that could be the problem from 2CarPros.

Okay, can you monitor the operation with a scan tool?

Is the code still active? The 120 code?

Roy

Yes, but I don't have a scan tool. I will have to take it to a garage.

If the code is still active, the TPS was not the issue. It is most likely a wiring issue.

I attached a wiring diagram for you. Verify the fuses are good that I highlighted. This is not a visual test but is a voltage test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy

Thank you, I will do what you said. hope that's the problem.