1999 Toyota Tacoma necessary to remove differential to repl

FTKEG

MEMBER
1999 TOYOTA TACOMA
4 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
110,000 MILES

Hi,

The oil pan on my 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 (2.7 L) is rusting out and needs to be replaced. From crawling around under the truck, it looks like the front differential needs to come out before I can get at the oil pan. So here are my questions:

1) Am I right that the differential needs to come out (and is there anything else that I'll need to pull that I should be aware of)?

2) Is it possible to knock the inboard ends of the drive-axles out of the differential without removing the outboard ends from the wheels (and detaching the lower suspension arms, etc.)?

3) How foolish am I for thinking that I can do this with a couple jack stands, moderate mechanical skills, and some basic tools?

Thanks!

3 Replies

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

Hi ftkeg,

Thank you for the donation.

You are partially correct about the diferential assy. It need not nbe removed completely, lowering it should provide sufficient space for removing and installing the oil sump.

If you do not have sufficient space after lowering the differential, you would need to unplug the axle shaft and pull it out. Disconnecting the lower arem ball joint of the knuckle would be sufficient to get the axle shaft out.

The job is accomplishable by a DIY mechinc with the basics tools, just that it is rather time consuming.

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Monday, September 21st, 2009 AT 1:45 AM

FTKEG

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Hi KHLow,

Thanks for your help in getting me started on this oil pan change. I finally have found time to take a stab at it (yes, it took forever to find a free day that also wasn't rainy). I first tried just lowering the differential without disconnecting the axle shaft from the wheels, but it is clear that there is still not enough room to get the oil pan out, so completely dropping the differential is necessary. I've got the axle shaft on the driver's side loose (I think I can get away with just removing this one to make room for the pan), and the castle nut that attaches the lower ball joint to the lower control arm is off, but I'm stuck at this point. The FSM calls for a special tool (sst 09628-62011 I think) to push the lower ball joint up and out of the control arm. I don't have the tool, and gentle lifting with a pry bar didn't budge it (I'm a little worried about damaging something down there - particularly the rubber boot over the ball joint - so I'm trying to be cautious), so I tried pushing up on the bolt from below with a floor jack. That just raised the whole thing, control arm and all, as though the ball joint and the control arm are fused together. There's a lot of rust, but I'm assuming that these should be able to be separated without too much trouble. Can you provide any guidance on this? Is there a lot of pressure holding the ball joint against the control arm? Do I need to get my hands the special service tool?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

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Thursday, November 12th, 2009 AT 1:05 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

The ball joints are tapered where it is slotted into the arms. After loosening the castle nut, use a bar and hammer to bang on the arm as near the ball joint as possible to vibrate and loosen the slotted in part. It should come loose after some banging. Apply a little pressure on the hub to try to lift it up slightly.

Alternatively you can just remove the holding bolts for the ball joints without removing the ball joint castle nut. Leave the ball joint connected to the knuckle and disconnet it from the arm.

There are 4 holding bolts as shown in diagram.