Engine wont start

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_cranks_but_wont_start.htm
Go here for in depth troubleshooting advice for your condition!
Check the fuse for the sunroof, many times several circuits are on one fuse, you may have the ecm or pcm on the same fuse...if so drive the car to the desired location, then close the roof and troubleshoot the roof circuit.

I have no spark and car will not start.

Hello,

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out, here is a guide and diagram (below) on how to test it to confirm.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

INSPECT AIR GAPS

Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil projection.

Air gap: 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) or more

If the gap is not as specified, replace the distributor.

INSPECT PICKUP COILS

Using an ohmmeter, check resistance of the pickup coil.

G1 pickup coil resistance:
G1 -> G- 140 - 180 Ohms
G2 pickup coil resistance:
G2 -> G- 140 - 180 Ohms
NE pickup coil resistance:
NE -> G- 180 - 220 Ohms
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor.


Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

My car has a new Sears Die Hard battery (6 months ago), car is a summer weekend car and has sat in the garage for the past 4 months without being driven or started. Temps have been in the 10's-20's over the past month or so. I went out to start the car today and there was no power at all to the electric power door locks, dash lights didn't cme on, dome light didn't come on. I turned the key and it was totally dead, no click, no dash lights, nothing. I checked the fuses & replaced a blown dome fuse.
I then charged the battery for 10 minutes with a plug in charger and the battery was quicky at full charge. I then tried to jump start the car with the charger & I got a very fast clicking (click-click-click) sound, but no turn over of the engine. Some brief movement if the headlights popping up & wipers occurred. Should I remove the battery from the car & get it tested at Sears? It is a new battery so I'm thinking the problem may be elsewhere, unless the cold temps could have frozen the battery or the battery has a bad cell or something. Could it be my starter, or maybe my alternator needs replacing How can I diagose what needs to be fixed?

Get the battery load tested if okay-check the following starter, starter relay, transmission range switch and ignition switch

Thanks for the quick response & helpful advice. I have since taken battery to Sears & they said my battery was drained and needed to be charged for a few hours. They told me that I should have removed the battery from the car since I was storing imy summer car away for the winter, and that the battery drained. I asked them if the battery might be frozen & they said that it might be...apparently the water can separate out when it gets drained and loses its charge, if not kept charged up from time to time. I am now warming the battery up inside my house....tomorrow (after 24 hrs of warming up) I will charge the battery for a few days at a time at 12 amps with my charger. Come next spring, I'll put the charged battery back into the car & see if that fixes the problem!

1989 Toyota Supra 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 150XXX miles

i was recently driving home when my car suddenly started slowing down. i pushed the gas peddal but it would not speed up. so i pulled over and now the car will not start at all. it cranks normally so i know that it is not the starter. it also sounds like it is getting fuel so i do not think that it is the fuel pump. i checked the oil in it and there is a lot more oil in the car than necessary. i also checked the spark plugs to see if it was getting spark and there is oil inside where the spark pugs attach to the engine. is that normal? or is there not supposed to be oil in there. and also will having too much oil in a car make it not start? and will that make it suddenly start slowing down while driving. i put the oil in the car the same day that this happened. i know that it is not the battery because everything has plenty of power. i would greatly appreciate any help. thank you.

Drain the excess oil out and do below to determine if its fuel or spark problem.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM,Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Last night it was a bit cold, I went to my work at 4 and was supposed to leave at 1:00 am. I went up to the car and tried to start it but it just cranks but wont start. I tried to jump start the car with friends car battery cable but it didnt help. Wat is the problem so i can take it to fix it.

I am assuming that the reason you jumped the car is because you killed the battery from cranking the engine too long...If the engine cranked just a little before you had to jump it then test the battery and clean up the battery connections - if it's ok then test the alternator.


In order to find the problem you must determine if it first- is getting fuel, and second- getting spark.
I assume that this the first time this has happened, so this problem is a sudden failure -- right? Fuel pumps and ignition modules fail like this -- but it must be tested and confirmed first.
Make sure the car is securely in park -- the neutral safety switch will act like this also.

I called some little knowledge guys to look at it and mostly I heard from them was the fuel pump is gone. I am taking it to the toyota dealer tomorrow, they told me that they have to look at it first and then only they will tell me that if they can fix it or not. Would it be good to take it to the dealer or call a mechanic. I have to go to another city coming month so I dont want my car to act like that.

A dealer is the best place to have a car repaired as long as the dealer has certified mechanics - and most do. However, a dealer is not cheap, but paying a little more may be worth it in the long run. A dealer has access to a massive data base related to your specific car - as it relates to problems - upgrades - and common failures. 188000 miles is well beyond the life expectancy of a fuel pump for your car so it very well may be the problem, but testing it is the key to solving your problem - a dealer has that capability BEFORE they replace a part - a mechanic usually does not. A dealer also uses factory parts, not aftermarket, which sometimes is important.
A fuel pump failure is not a hard thing for any mechanic to diagnosis. It will be cheaper to take your car to a mechanic, but if it is not a fuel pump then it is unlikely a mechanic will be able to diagnosis the problem as fast as a dealer.

BTW dealer mechanics are mechanics too. They are just more specialized in one make of car - in your case it is a Toyota.
Keep me posted and good luck

I took it to the toyota dealer, after 1 day I called them and they told me that the ignition coil is bad. Wat do u think of that, it may be true or not. They asked for upto 600 dollars to fix it, I am searching in the internet to get some cheap one. How do i fix it if I get a cheap one in the internet.

my 1988 7mgte isnt starting left work it started fine, went to a friends house and when i left the temp gauge began to peg in the red when pressing the gas peddle. as soon as i let off the gas peddle it would drop back to the normal temp. it wasnt over heating when i pulled over to make sure. when i went to start it back up it would crank over but would not start. im getting the check engine code 11( power loss to the ecu) i can not find out what is wrong for the life of me really want to drive my car its killing me any help greatly appreciated

A bad ignition coil will cause your problem. The part itself is $70 at autozone. A factory toyota part is probably double that.
Changing a coil is usually not a big deal and is usually not hard- Depending on its' location. Follow the spark plug wires back to the distributer cap - there will be a coil wire connected in the middle of the distributer cap -- this wire will go to the coil. Observe the coil and look at things like -- what tool you need -- what you may need to remove to access the coil etc. Be sure to disconnect the positive battery cable when doing this job. I do suggest investing in a repair manual like haynes, for your car. They are cheap and you will be suprised on how many repairs you can do yourself referencing these repair manuals.

check all fuses with a test light to verify fuses.

how do you know it was not overheating??

check fuel pressure and spark as well.

Roy

Last night I started my car, it was making funny sound so i turned if off and checked the engine. Found that my steering wheel needed some oil so i filled it up. Later I tried to start it again but it didnt start. It was making tick tick sound. Guys help me out here. The car is outside on the roadside and I dont want to get a ticket for that.

Check the battery condition if okay make sure its cleaned and properly tightened then get back. Or have helper hold key at start position-you bang on the starter if it kicks over replace the starter

I have a non-turbo supra that will not start. Mostly because I have no spark. My RPM gage reads around 2000 and the engine temp is maxed out with the Eng. off and the key out. And once I connect the battery I tried to start the car and nothing then I checked for spark and I had fuel on the spark plug I cleaned that off and tried to get a spark and nothing. I ohms checked the coil and I should be getting 0.2 to 0.3 ohms but there was 0 ohms. Please help me.

My thoughts are the coil and or the ECU

If the coil has 0 ohms, that means it is bad.

Thanks that's what I was thinking but I wasn't sure. Will the coil being bad cause the other stuff that's happening?

Should not be the case except for the rpm which might be affected. Replace the coil and test if others go away.

thanks for the help i'll let you know what i find out

You're welcome.

Good luck

it runs before I parked overnight the next day won't start anymore

Pick your symptoms:

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.


No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

was an intermitent problem now it wont start at all I replace only the coil not the control modual have no spark to ground when plug wire is pulled

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

I just got a 1987 Toyota Supra with a 3.0 naturally aspirated inline 6.I am experiencing a no start situation. The battery is charged, and all of the lights and electronics work, but when i turn the key I just hear a click under the glove box area and a click from the right rear of the car. They sound like relay clicks. I should mention the car usually starts and runs fine, but this has happened 3 or 4 times lately...i try to start it-nothing, but then after 10 minutes or longer it would usually start...not this time. I did some reseach and I'd like to try bypassing the neutral safety switch to see if it is bad. The problem is this is my first import and I don't even know where to look for the switch....or if this is even a good idea. Please advise.
Thanks in advance

I have the same problem with my 1988 supra turbo 3.0. When i turn on the ignition there is a click sound. After 2 to 3 turnover it usually starts and sometimes it doesnt. Did u fix you car what was the problem, let me know, I'll really appreciate that. Thankyou..

I got power going into the ignition ignitor and none coming out the car will crank but won't start can you help me?

Is engine a 7M-GE or 7M-GTE?

It's a 7M-GE

Check for voltage on igniter terminal 1 and in crank terminal 3 & 4. Check coil positive term. for voltage. Check neg. with test light crank does test light flash?if no possible ignniter or pick up coil in dist. if yes test coil Primary should be .2-.3 ohms, secondary 9K -12.5K. if not replace coil

My Toyota Supra Turbo has an unusual problem, when i start it with a cold engine in starts fine, and drove fine but when i shut off the engine and let it sit for few minutes when engine still warm there's a time that it won't start, you won't even hear a crank it's just dead but leaving it for about 4 to 5 hours it will start again fine..Is there anything wrong with the sensors? What seems to be the problem with this? pls. help me asap!!! Thanks guy!!!

Could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops

i own a 1989 toyota supra turbo with 58000 miles on the engine and when its cold it starts right up. I shut it off when the engine is hot but then it becomes difficult to start about 2-4 times to start, and when it does start it idles low and rough.

[quote:d54c3e6bb3="dannyksupra"]i own a 1989 toyota supra turbo with 58000 miles on the engine and when its cold it starts right up. I shut it off when the engine is hot but then it becomes difficult to start about 2-4 times to start, and when it does start it idles low and rough.[/quote:d54c3e6bb3]

Check the fuel pressure

Check the fuel pressure not to sound stupid but how? and also could it be the injectors are dirty. because originally we thought it was a bad starter but the only problem was the starter needed a new ground. thanks anyways

If your losing the holding pressure from the fuel pump it will do that prolong starting when engine is hot.