engine cranks won't start

Hi szalkuskt, Welcome to 2carpros

You need to establish if its a fuel or spark problem- If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing.

This guide will help walk us through the testing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

there are no plug wires so i guess I would have to take a coli pack out of the head and put a sparkplug in it and then ground it out to check for a snapping blue spark. also where are the important fuses so i can check for to see if they are blown? also, i need to get a fuel pressure gauge to test for fuel pressure, what is a good inexpensive kit to buy and also maintenance manuals on how to do it.

Do the spark test 1st then follow it with the fuel pressure check Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn key On? If so do below.

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

the pump noise should be in the tank? also what is a good fuel tester to buy, are all the sizes of test fittings standard on the rail?

i disconnected the battery for 2 days and then I reconnected it and the van started right up first time and ran and drove fine. what could have happened

Is the security light flashing? if so check out this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

my sienna cut out again today and disconnected the battery waited 10 min the reconnected it and it started right up and no codes were present. any way to check a relay or is the a problem the computer is memorizing?

Bring it in and get the computer flashed

What does flashing do and usually how much is it? Is it cheaper to buy a new computer? What do you think is happening that my computer might be kicking off the engine? can this type of problem be other than computer related?

Next time when it dies out do below immediately don't disconnect the battery to fire it back up and come back with some results, in the event it dies out again bring it in

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

can you tell me what flashing does and why it might help me and also how much i should expect to pay?

Dunno if its gonna help you -flashing it is fine tuning it,clears glitches your best bet is bring it-in this is complicated problem being it an intermittent I cannot propvide you a fire answer. Sorry!

well right now it is in the "no start " condition and I think I am going to tow it to the dealership on Monday while it is in the "no -start" condition and that way they can have a better chance of diagnosing it. Sound good?

Hi szalkuskt, thank you and good luck. let us know what you find.

VERIFY SES LITE OFF UPON ARRIVAL. PERFORM OBD2 SYSTEM CHECK, NO DTC'S IN

HISTORY. PERFORM IAC VALVE COMMAND OPERATIONS ,25% ENGINE DIES. REMOVE

INTAKE DUCT, LOTS OF CARBON BUILD UP ON THROTTLE BLADES & IN BORE. RECOMMEND TO CLEAN

THROTTLE BODY OF CARBON BUILD UP FIRST THEN RECHECK OPERATION. IAC VALVE MAY BE

INTERMITTENTLY BINDING INTERNALLY. IF AFTER CLEANING OF THROTTLE BODY CONCERN IS STILL PRESENT, RECOMMEND TO REPLACE IAC VALVE.***NOTE: COMPLETE TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT & 90,000 MILE SERVICE DUE.



*IAC VALVE PT #22270-0A060

*IAC VALVE GASKET PT #22215-20010

*THROTTLE BODY GASKET PT #22271-0A020

van would not start again this morning. I guess I am going to change the IAC, Can someone point me in the direction of the manual how to replace that IAC ? I have one ordered to ship to my house.

if the iac is not working would it bring on a code ? i took the intake ducting off today and try to start the engine and it would not start. why did the dealer tell me the iac is going bad? itnever produced codes

ok i got the van to start then die. I hooked up my obdII scan tool to scan for codes and no codes but hen it would start and run, but run funny. then i noticed I had the OBD II tool still plugged in and when I unplugged the scan tool the van died. tried to start it back up it would NOT start. Tried starting the van with the scan tool plugged in and it started up but ran a little wierd and the temp gage would fluxuate up and down.

You need to bring the computer in and get it tested this is as far as I can take you thru the internet

IACV could be bad and won't give a code, don't always rely bcuz the CEL didn't read a code for the IACV that's its still good-try replacing it and go from there.

are you thinking the computer is bad? any reason why with the OBDII plug plugged in that it ran? can I remove the computer and buy one and install it without going to the dealer? i have seen ecu exchange places on the internet. remove the computer and take it in or drive my van to the dealer and play the dealership service department game again?i really don't have faith in the dealer although, i am going to change the IACV with a brand new one bcuz i ordered one already. where is the computer located anyway?

The PCM or ECM is located on right side of dash see pic below

can i replace the computer with a new one that has all of the correct stuff flashed on it? why did it run with the OBDII cord plugged in? It ran with the cord plugged in and not even the OBDII device.

why did it run with the OBDII cord plugged in?
I cannot explain the reason for this you can try another computer sorry-

can you suggest a good place on the internet to repair my existing computer? i can remove it and send it in for repair and refurbish after I replace the IAC valve with a new one. any internet repair places that are reputable? I took down the computer number 89661-08061. my vin starts with 4T3ZF19CX1U.... 2001 sienna V6 IMZFE

I am very sorry I cannot provide you with the info you are requesting however you can surf the internet.

I put a new IAC valve in and the van stiil will not start after having the neg cable removed while installing the IAC then replacing the IAC and attatching the neg cable then trying it. I checked for OBD II codes and no codes. While having the scanner installed I tried starting the van and it started up. It ran. still had aliitle fluxing on the temp gage and engine pulsing very slightly. The alt is working reading 14.5 volts across the batt terminals while running. I am thinking change the computer. Can anyone help me with explaining: Operation, trobleshooting, common problems and turning in my ECM via the internet for repair and replacing it .

Do this -Check and test the EFI fuse if okay,disconnect the E8 connector from the computer and check for power on Pin no.1 that says battery-Do you have it-if not you have an open wire between this point and the EFI fuse. Power at no.1 pin-Then have the computer checked or replaced as for internet referral I'm in the middle of the pacific ocean unable to do it

where is the EFI fuse? How do I locate the correct connector and pin number on the ECM? I bought an ecm from a salvaged vehicle and it has the correct part number for a remanufactured by Denso 2001 Sienna. I have not received it yet but I am going to replace the ecm with the one i bought from the salvaged vehicle.

Hi. So my car has been having this starting issue for the last couple days. It comes and goes. What happens is this. I will turn the key in the ignition, and sometimes there will be a brief 1/2 sec to 2 second pause before it starts. If I listen closely, I can hear a humming sound, but there is not the clicking sound that I have heard from a dead battery. A couple times, I have not been able to get the car started at all, it will just hum away, and then I will come back thirty or forty minutes later and it will start fine. Today, I drove around a lot, and after I arrived home, I turned off the car, and then immediately tried to turn it on again, but it wouldn't. I came back thirty minutes later and it started fine. The car does not have a hard time starting once it starts (if that makes sense). It starts right away, except for the pause after I turn the key. Sometimes there is no discernible pause. I really hope that you can help me out here. Thank you for your time.

The solonoid on the starter may be sticking. Check that the small wire on the starter is tight and with the key on check the same wire for power.

I will find a voltmeter to test the power.

test power at starter see if it's the same as battery then have starter tested for draw. if it doesn't say expert in parenthesis by the name the answer is not from 2car pros

van ran out of gas last night.put in 1 gallon of gas.now vehicle will not stay running for longer than 30 to 45 seconds...have not tried any type of repair yet..looking for helpto diagnose issue..please contact...will be able to provide any info if needed

Since the problem has happened since you ran out of gas, I would start by replacing the fuel filter and checking fuel pump pressure. I have see many times when the pump has gone bad when this happens.

what do I do if my ignition keeps getting stuck in lock? Everything else works, its just the ignition that locks up when I first try to start up the van. I have to try starting up the van by moving the steering wheel from the up position to the down position and then make sure the steering wheel is in the locked position and then turning the key, I even have to pull it out and put it back in over and over trying to get it to turn the ignition.

a lot of times just getting a new cut will cure the problem. I recommend going to the dealer and having on cut from the key code..if you dont know the code, they can look it up with your VIN number. This is a cheap place to start.

Sorry, I meant to say that getting a new key cut would be a good place to start

I have just discovered that the Car engine stops anytime it is hot, when I start the car in the morning it will start and stops after driving for over 30 minutes, if I start again, it will start and stop again, it does this till it gets to a period it doesn't start again.

When it doesn't start anymore, you need to check if there is spark and fuel to the engine. One will be missing. Once that is determined, we will know which circuits to focus on.

Yes, there is always a spark and the engine rolls very well but I am not sure whether the engine gets fuel or not.

The local mechanics said that the condition of the car is called COLD START. It will always start when the engine get cool.

What could be the cause and how do we rectify this?

Please assist.

Thank you.

Kayode.