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Brakes locking up

Tiny
MUDTWIG
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 152,000 MILES
My rear, drivers side brake is locking up occasionally, when I come to a complete stop. Sometimes it grabs and then releases, other times it locks down abruptly at a complete stop. I just bought this truck, and the previous owner had just replaced the bearing in the same wheel, any ideas to what is going on?
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Thursday, April 9th, 2009 AT 6:48 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hello,

Rear brake typically lock up when the brake shoes and drums needs to be replaced here is a video showing the job being done on your truck.

https://youtu.be/r82BLijWuNQ

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2009 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
BUCKWHEAT615
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1984 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 89,500 MILES
Since it has turned cold and with high humidity, I think the rear brakes, which appear to be drum brakes are locking up. The first time I had gone about five miles and was about 3 miles from home. I pulled into a service station to get gas and it felt like someone had pulled on the emergency brakes. I was barely able to get into a parking place, as the truck was immovable. The rear end would ride up and the transmission would let engine rev up. I called a tow truck which took it to a mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong that the brakes apparently dried out. After that I had to go farther and I lightly held the brakes while moving to try to heat them up and not freeze up again. That was about a 25 mi. Round trip and my strategy seemed to work. The next time I made a shorter drive, I tried heating the shoes again but they locked up just outside a grocery store and I got stuck in traffic. I had to get a tow truck again and by the time I got home the vehicle was drivable. The tow truck driver pulled the car with the rear wheels on his dolly as he had assumed, from what I told him, that it was the rear wheels that were locking up. I'm wondering if there is some kind of spray I could use or if just change the shoes and resurface the drums will cure this.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JASONRAY
  • MECHANIC
  • 213 POSTS
NO, that's not going to cure your problem. Something is causing the rear shoes to NOT release. First, we need to determine whether it's BOTH or ONE rear wheel locking up. If one's doing it, it could feel like both. To determine this, you'll need to catch it when it's happening and, using a floor jack, raise the rear wheels off the ground. See if either wheel will turn. If it's only ONE, you'll need to remove the drum and inspect. If it's BOTH, we need to start looking towards the Master Cylinder, perhaps. The M/C is designed to release a small amount when the pedal is released so the pads/shoes don't continually ride against the rotors/drums so much they get hot. If it fails, it could be holding the shoes out and not release them at all. The more you use them, the tighter they get. Start with this advice and see where it gets you. Repost and we'll keep trying
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUCKWHEAT615
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you Jason you have helped a bunch. My name is Gene and I am the original poster. As I'm disabled and don't have a floor jack and jack stands, I probably won't be able to do anything until January 2009.

I got the truck from my daughter who had it two years. I have had it six years. During this time the brake warning light on the dash has been on. Since the brakes appeared to be working and jiggling the parking brake did not make the light go out I have just ignored it. Is there a sensor from the M/C to the warning light? If so can I disconnect it and see if the light goes out? And if it goes out would that indicate the need for a replacement M/C? The levels are fine in the M/C but I don't know if the brake fluid has lost its useful life. Thanks again!
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JASONRAY
  • MECHANIC
  • 213 POSTS
The brake light on the dash is possibly turned on by either the proportioning valve or a fluid level sensor. Even if there's enough fluid in the reservoir, the sensor coud still be turning the light on. See if there's an electrical connector at the master cylinder. If so, remove the cap and, using a small pick or screwdriver, poke the little plastic plunger a couple of times and see if it's possibly stuck all the way down. If so, that'll turn the light on. You may be able to free it up so that it'll float again and the light may go off. If there's no connector at the M/C, the the Proportioning Valve is probably turning the light on. It works on a fairly simple concept. This is where the amount of fluid to the front and rear brakes is determined. You do about 80% of the braking with the front and 20 with the rear. There's a little plunger inside the valve. If, say, there's some air in the rear brakes, when you press the brake pedal, the plunger in the valve will move that direction in it's housing since pressure will only build on the front brakes(since there's NO AIR in our scenario). The pressure on the front brake lines pushes the plunger away and towards the rear side. A switch is mounted to the top of the valve that reaches inside to the plunger. If it gets 'off center', the switch closes and the light comes on. Depending on how it's wired up from the factory, you may be able to unplug it and the light go out. This valve is sometimes hard to reach, though. They're usually hidden on the frame somewhere under the M/C. Good luck.
And, Gene, if there's anything else I can help you with, let me know. I'll be ready and willing.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUCKWHEAT615
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The ssi from Gene the original poster. Jason Thanks again for the new reply and the response time. I still need to do what you suggested in your first response, which prompted me to give you more information on the possible problems or additional problems.

I checked for wires to the M/C and their was a group attached to the middle of the cap. Also I had mentioned before that I had checked the levels and the large resevoir was above min, so I added some fluiid.

This is a two seperate resevoir system and the small one did not have any min. - Max. Indicators but was below a line similar to one on the big resevior, so I added some to it also.

Additionally there is 2 wires connected to the large resevoir cap that has what looks like two seperate in line fuse holders. I couldn't get them loose because of the way it is closed. I traced one of them to what looks like a resistor block mounted on the base of the coil, or it might be a ground.

There is a slew of brake lines and under the larger resevior is a housing that looks like it could hold a plunger or valve.

The floats in the resevoirs are just free floating with nothing attached to them. I assume when the brake pedal is pressed the floats rise up to perform a function that I don't know.

THANKS AGAIN! MEERY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR!

GENE
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JASONRAY
  • MECHANIC
  • 213 POSTS
The wires going to the cap on the M/C should be the level switch. There should be a float attached to it somewhere. If it's come apart and is still in the fluid when you remove the cap, that may be your problem with the light.

I just re-read the original post. Have we gotten away from the brakes locking up? Is that still happening? If so, I have a few ideas that will determine what's causing it. Repost again and let me know. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of all this without you spending too much money. Maybe you can buy a loved one a nice gift for Christmas instead of spending it on your truck. Good luck and Merry Christmas. I'll be waiting to hear back from you.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUCKWHEAT615
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
12-25-2008

JASON--Hope you had a good Christmas. Your last post answered my unasked question (would low brake fluid be causing the warning light and the locking up?) The floats are broken. They don't have anything connecting to the wires on the resevoir cap. So that's probably the warning light problem. If you will re-read my previous psots you will see that I explained that I wouldn't be able to follow your tips in your first reply until January 2009 because that's when I get my disability check.

So no I have not done the initial trouble shooting that you reccommended in your first reply. I plan to do that and get back to you. I was just trying to see if there was a link to the "locking up" and the brake warning light. So THANKS again -- for the prompt replies and I will also start donating more in January. If you have to work after Christmas I hope you can stay warm -- and to you and all your gang HAPPY NEW YEAR!

GOD'S BLESSING'S to YOU ALL AND GOOD DAY AND GOOD NIGHT!

Gene Israel formerly from New Mexico -- now from Franklin Tn. (Near Nashville)
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1WOODMONGER
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
  • 1982 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 160,000 MILES
My question is, a 1982 toyota 1 ton odyssey, brake problem, front brakes are touchy and lock up sometimes after warming up what could cause this?

I have a 1982 Toyota 1 Ton Rv. I have replaced the master cylinder 3 times, I have cleaned up the proportion valve inside and out( it looks Ok), I have replaced the front disk pads twice, I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders, I have also adjusted the rear shoes both sides, I have replaced 1 caliper drivers side, I have changed brake fluid 2 or 3 times lost track. I have been getting iffy rebuilds from the parts store, hard to tell what is good and what isn't. Still the brakes are touchy up front, and when warm

( after I drive for 10 min.) Front brakes lock up. What could be causing it, I have pretty much gone through everything and I still am at a loss. Every thing is new except for 1 caliper and the proportion valve.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you check the brake pedal to booster push rod clearance? If the push rod is adjusted incorrectly without and free, the master cylinder would be partially working all the time and this would result in brakes locking up when fluids are heated.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1WOODMONGER
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I did that, but it doesn't help, Do you know if there are two different types of brake pads for this vehicle the pads I have are part number 04465-35160. I was thinking that maybe I was given the wrong pads. Or do you have any other suggestions.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
When brakes locks up, try cracking the lines at master cylinder to see if frees up the wheels. If yes, the problem is at master cylinder. If the brakes do not release, move on to the next joint in line pressure and crack the line. Continue till the location that frees up the brakes is found and that is what you should be looking at.

I don't think the brake pads has anything to do with the brakes locking up though overheating might be possible if the pads are too tight and cannot move easily.

Is vehicle equipped with load sensing proportioning control valve?
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SWARTZME
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1985 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 200,000 MILES
After driving for 15 miles let sit then ok or crack bleeders put new hoses on oh 85 toyota pickup 2 wheel drive thinking mastercylinder, or calibers
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Check that you have correct pedal clearance, if that is ok consider a new master cylinder.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SWARTZME
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
It just start doing this after putting new shoes on rear and on one wheel cylinder that was 3 weeks ago this started just over a week the petal has about a 3/4 to a 1 inch of free play and the more you drive the higher the petal get up till their is no free play. Checked master cylinder for reduial pressure their is none. How much free play should it have
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
About 3-4 mm free play, just as long as there is some.
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Monday, February 18th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)

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