ECU location and replacement?

Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Left side middle of engine .


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_corrolla_1.jpg

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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1998 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 139,000 MILES
I just bought a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 139k miles on it. It is in great shape except for one issue: it runs hot (about 3/4 gauge). I had the cooling system flushed to see if it would help with no improvement. When I drove to work this AM I noticed the following:
1- It heats up/gets hotter while driving
2- It cools down a little bit when stopped at lights
3- It cools down significantly when stopped and I blast the heat

I have been going through the coolant flow over and over then rememberer the electric fans. With the car idling in the parking garage, I waited to see if the fans came on. Both fans come on when the temp gauge goes over 3/4 guage. And then cycle off, suggesting the fans are not coming on at the right temperature.

From my reading/research online, I believe simply unplugging the fan temp switch will cause the fans to run constantly in "fail safe" mode. Is this correct? If so, would you agree I should try making the 40 minute drive home with the fans running constantly to see if it resolve the temperature problem and, if it does, the switch is the culprit?
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Wen it gets hot, turn car and fans off, put hand on radiator if you feel cold spots the rad is bad if not have system pressure checked for internal coolant leak like head/intake gasket
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OLUWAKEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 130,000 MILES
Sometimes when its cold, its works for like 10minutes before it goes off. Have serviced the injector, nozzles and have changed the fuel pump, plugs and fuses. The battery and engine was changed 6months back.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Did you check for trouble codes and is the MIL indicating?
Does keeping slight pressure on the accelerator keeps the engine running?
Are you able to restart?
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OLUWAKEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes to all the questions you asked.
Yes, keeping slight pressure on the accelerator keeps the engine running. And am able to restart on park or Neutral but it goes
off afterwards and car stops moving.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Are you getting any trouble codes?
If no, have the throttle body and IAC cleaned and retest. Seems the idle speed is too low.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REDCLOWN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
A Car repair shop has determined that my 1997 Toyota Corolla has four possible problems. The ignition coil, Ignition egniter, Distributor or the ECM Computer. My mechanic has determined that all the Ignition coil, Ignition Enighter, and Distributor are all okay. If the ECM computer the last option does not work what could be another answer to my problem?
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
What problem are you having? Missing, no power, hard to start?
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+3
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REDCLOWN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
My Toyota Corolla 1997 has a hard time starting. My engine is in good shape. The Ignition Igniter, Ignition Coil, Distributor, plug wires, spark plugs, battery, and alternator are okay. My car drives smoothly but when it gets hot like all cars do, the car would cut off suddenly and then I would have a hard time starting the car. I would have to wait like ten minutes for it to cool down and then it will start up and drive again, until hot and then cut off again. If a ECM replacement does not solve the problem, then where else should I look for the problem? Thanks much.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Generally when the car dies hot and restarts cool, it is a bad ignitor (ignition module). But I would also measure fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge to make sure it is not a fuel problem.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KAROL CAPARASO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 119,000 MILES
The car is idling fast - it was diagnosed at a repair shop as a faulty idle module. I do not want to put more money in the car, because I would like to trade up soon. Can the car be driven safely with the idle module problem? What could possibly happen down the road?
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
I guess that depends on your definition of "safe". If it's idling too fast, that could be considered a safety concern in itself. That's about all that will go wrong though.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I agree with that. However, if you are able to hold the vehicle while in gear with pressing the brake then that would be the only real safety issue with the high idle. If you can't keep it stopped and it creeps while holding the brake then that would not be safe. Otherwise if the car runs with just a high idle then it is okay to drive for now.
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Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 12:20 PM

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