1995 Toyota Corolla shoot me now

Verify the valve and ignition timing if okay check the fuel pressure.

listen raz i appreciate u as u might have guess i`m a po boy,i barely have enough tools to do anything on this car,so 1 thing i try to do is elimenate as much as i can by logic,for one thing i didn`t have a fuel problem b4 the tensioner flew apart,unless it just happened to come about at exactly the same time,yet i`m all for it being a fuel problem as i bleeb i can fix that,how can i ck pressure when i ca`t crank it and have no pressure gauge,is there any way the ecu is keeping it from running because it recieved a catastrophe message from when it went out of time ty,out of work have cancer and my old lady is riding her bike back and forth to work because this is all we have,most of my peeps are dead,except 1 and he lives in another state,pretend i have spark timing and gas,now what could it be thnx

Okay I understand-Did you put the engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC line all the sprockets according to the book as indicated and ignition rotor pointing at the no.1 cap tower-Failure to do so will results on No start even if its getting spark and fuel-the vlave timing is off. Do you hear the fuel pump come on when key at run position.

i have put it on tdc,at crank and matched up head mark to cam gear and got up and went around to see distribtor was pointing at 1,made two complete revolutions on crank to verify,4 times,it sounds like a lil something is running on the fire wall when i first turn the key but as i understand it the pump is in the tank so don`t know what this noise is,sounds like a small motor,it fires everytime i turn key all the way off and then try but will not fire even once if i try continuosly without first turning key all the way off hmmmm?

Okay block the airflow meter vane flap wide open and attemp to start-what happened.

will try that 1st thing tomorrow,done got dark here in albany ga.

Also try this put the no.1 wire on the cap where the no.4 is and follow the firing order

ok pal i tried locking the throttle body flap open made no difference,switching 1 and 4 plug wires suprisingly made no difference either,heres the clue that i think means the most but then of course i`ve actually got my hands on it and ur miles and lies away and my clues prolly suck,when i first try to turn it over thats with key in the complete off position and make my initial turn to the right it fires right up sounds strong and proper for 1 second,if i continue to hold key over to full crank position nothing will not fire not even once or a tiny lil pop,turn key all the way back off and try again it immediately fires perfectly for that 1 second,its as if the initial turn of the key is giving her something she needs but can only get for that 1 second,so maybe fuel pump is the answer,its beyond my experience but reminds me of a international i had once with a bad fuel pump,course that was another life ago and it was a mech pump i know zip about elec pumps but my assumption is it wouldn`t work at all not even a second,i`m 99.9 percent sure of the timing,98 percent sure of spark,i spose it could be i`m just lucky that way and the fuel pump and timing belt tensioner went out at exactly the same time
lol

should read miles and miles

I'm talking about the airflow meter vane flap, not the throttle body plate-its within the air cleaner housing. Or find the diagnostic check connector and jumper Fp to Batt on it and attempt to start.

i`m showing it now,i`ve got a half az toy manual from haynes its real slack on info,will try to find it but i admit i don`t have a clue what this is u speak of airflow meter vane,i can update u on fuel sit,100% fuel b4 rail a gal.a min,in the rail 5x5,after pressure reg same,had the old lady here to help,she turned while i watch fuel run all over,if u can give me a locator becon on this meter vane do lolly

ok have taken the airfilter assembly completely apart see no flap of any kind,also don`t see any reference to it in book,nor the fp block of course that don`t mean it aint there i`m bout half blind,is fp locqated in diagnostic block ok i think u did say diagnostic block

what a dorky old fart i am,fp stands for fuel pump,yeah its working,lol,but i had already proven that the old fashion sloppy way,ok made no diff even when i could hear fuel pump while jumped singing like a bird,its still cranking and running for almost 2 seconds as long as u turn switch off b4 trying,won`t catch and hold,what about a shot in the key switch itself

Talking about being blind-I thought it was an 89-disregard the airflow meter at this time.

Okay about the ignition switch lets do this:

Get a jumper wire long enough from the battery positive post to coil black and orange wire-tap into it this will power the coil without the key switch.-when you hook it up you gonna see the idiot lites on the dash lit up, now attempt to start. If the car starts up and continue to go-blame the ignition switch for causing all this mess.