1994 Toyota Celica Car is dead and oil light stays on with

ISRAELB

MEMBER
1994 TOYOTA CELICA
4 CYL
FWD
AUTOMATIC
130,000 MILES

Hi Everyone,

Here is a teaser for all you experts. The battery on the car was not braced and slid over and made contact with the hood theby causing a major short. Now the car does not start. It's dead. It does not crank, the lights don't work(interior or head lights). The radio doen't work, NOTHING does. I had the battery, starter and alternatortested and they all tested fine. I checked the fuses and they too are fine. Also, the oil light is always on, even if there is no key in the ignition.

HELP? I don't know what else to check for.

9 Replies

RASMATAZ

MECHANIC
75,992 POSTS

You probably blew a fusible link/s the colored squared boxes in the power distribution box

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Saturday, June 7th, 2008 AT 3:34 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

Hi israelb,

Check for a broken main ground cable. The battery shorting could have burnt the ground cable. Current is now reverse flowing through the oil switch using it as ground.

Use a jumper cables and connect it from battery negative to engine and body.

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Thursday, June 19th, 2008 AT 7:51 AM

ISRAELB

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6 POSTS

HI Khlow,

Well your were right on the money. Although I am not very good when it comes to trouble shooting electrical problems. I did find a grounding wire that was fried running from the engine block to the body of the car near the housing of the front shock absorber. I replaced that $12 wire and the car fired right UP. Thanks a million. I tested the starter, alternator, fuses, relays, etc. Etc. And nothing worked. All I ended up with, was a huge head ache.

Now the problem that I have is that although the car does start, (Head lights work and hazards) other things don't work. I.E. None of the gauges, radio, ac, turn signals, and wipers. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

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Sunday, June 22nd, 2008 AT 5:47 PM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

Hi israelb,

Now that the main problem is solved, we can get on with the others.

You need a test lamp to make your work easier.

If all other gauges are not working, you need to check the power source first and since the alternator and oil lights are working, we can rule out the ignition switch and the main fuse.

Headlights and hazard means the lighting fuse is ok.

I still suspect groundings as the battery shorting had created a hugh current surge which could have damaged more than 1 point. Behind the headlights on both end you would find grounding points. Don't just look at them, remove and test for continuity. They are grounds for the gauges.

Under the dash. Left right and centre you would also find some grounding points, check them.

If you can find the ground wire of the radio socket, connect it to ground directly and see if the problem is solved.

Happy hunting ;)

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Monday, June 23rd, 2008 AT 8:06 AM

ISRAELB

MEMBER
6 POSTS

Thanks for guiding me thru this process. I will check those grounds that you mentioned this weekend and post hopefully post some good news.

I'll keep you updated, thanks again for your help.

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Wednesday, June 25th, 2008 AT 3:22 PM

ISRAELB

MEMBER
6 POSTS

Hi there,

Happy 4th of July to you all. Well just wanted to let you know that I was able to fix my problem. I checked the other ground wires mentioned and they were all fine. The problem turned out to be the Alternator fuse (100amp). A buddy of mine broke the fuse when he was testing and just slid the fuse back on but it was not making contact. He didn't know that the fuse is held by 2 screws at the bottom and he was trying to pull it out but using shear force.

Anyway problem is fixed and I owe you experts many thanks and kudos to you all.

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Friday, July 4th, 2008 AT 6:23 PM