No spark at spark plug?

No spark. Coil checked out ok.

Checked readings. Did not check for pulse. How do you do that

Ohm resistance; He took a voltage reading but not when cranked

No spark, has new coil, and igniter, Just quit running.
Has fuel pressure, all fuses are good.
Rotor is turning when engine is cranked over.
I dont know what to do.

I changed the timing belt. After starting engine, all seem fine. The main bat wire on teh alternator was not tighten and came off for a second and hit shield over ex manifold. After that breif moment teh engine stopped and had no spark from then on. Eng cranks fine but has no spark. The check eng light is on and remains on during cranking.

I lost spark, changed distributor, then coil. My friend changed the computer then ignighter. We still cannot get spark. The fuses we can see are all good. Any tips

1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive

I have a 94 camry 4cyl, internal coil dist. It died suddenly while driving. I will give you several things I've checked and hopefully you can make sense of it all. Primary coil resistance was.8 and secondary resistance was 11.3. Both sides of the coil are hot when the ignition is on. Pickup coil resistance between terminal G+ & G- was 210, between Ne+ & Ne- was 419. I also Checked the fuse under the dash and both sides were hot. I checked the primary circuit(the connector with two connections) coming into the distributor with a LED test light, one side is hot all the time and the other side flashed when the engine was cranked the first time, then I checked the same thing and I got no flash when the engine was cranked. I don't know how to test the igniter or where it is located. I was able to pull two codes, they were 12 and 14. Thats all I got, Hope you can help.

Update: Since my last post I've replaced the igniter, got signal to the distributor and car would still not fire. I replaced the distributor today and the car started for a few seconds and died. Checked for signal from the igniter again and now I don't have any signal from the igniter to the distributor(same problem that lead me to replace the igniter in the first place). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Toyotatech, thanks for your replie earlier.

Hi John- All of your ohm readings are within spec except primary coil resistance, which they want to see between.36 and.65 ohms. Its out, but not open. Code 12 is for "no cam or crank signal to ECM" and 14 is for "no IGF to ECM". The ECM tells the igniter to fire with an "IGT" signal. When the coil field collapses the igniter sends confirmation to the ECM via "IGF" signal, so it may still be good. The igniter is located in the air box area with a 4 or 6 wire connector. Your blinking LED test light is verification that the signal from the igniter to the distributor is occurring. Check the distributor shaft- make sure its tight and maintains an even air gap. If the epoxy "window" on the coil is still clear, check for deep unusual cracking. There is a condensor in the the distributor housing. I don't know how to test it, but if it looks like it got hot and bubbled out the top, it is no good and may be your only problem.

Electrical problem
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. 2.2l. It overheated on me one day and I got that fixed and drove it later that night. The next day I went to start it and it wouldn't start. When I try to start it, it sounds like it wants to but it dont. I recently had a new fuel pump put on it. My uncle said there is no spark. He said it was the Electronic ignition module. What do you think it might be. It turns over it just wont start.

Washed the engine 2 weeks ago and it hasnt started since, have pulled all connections apart and dried them have checked all fuses and removed dist cap and plug leads and blown them all out please advise

1994 Toyota Camry 102K miles 4 cyl Auto Trans. Currently won't start, no spark.

Problem Started months ago by car just dying while on road at 35mph. Would restart after a while.

Think fuel we replaced filter. Seems to have plenty coming out while cranking.

Change cap and rotor, plugs and wires look OK. Still no spark. Check Ign coil got proper ohm reading across pos & neg also OK across pos and high volt terminal. Also swapped coil for new one, same results, no spark.

Pulled distributor and checked ohm reading of pick up coils per book both in spec. Also read coils while turning distributor shaft and when lobe passes coil ohm reading is interupted. Appears that is the way it should work, would be the sending signal I guess. Also checked air gap OK

Placed jumper across pins on data connector and got signal 12 flash on eng lite in car wich would be No NE Signal to ECM, yet coils read out OK and during distribuor turning we get interupted ohm reading?

Also got good voltage reading at ECM, can't remember which pins and also good voltage reading at Igniter.

Could distributor housing still be bad even with good pickup coil (NE & G) readings? Or ECM even though we are getting 12 error code?

This is a self repair as we cannot afford to just replace all parts as they are all expensive and dealer repair is more than car is worth.

We sent in a donation to help you guys out.

Have the spark plugs been checked. For me, if all else fails, verify with your own two eyes if the spark is present.

This deviced allows you to visually see your engine supplying a spark.

As far as it not starting, does the engine crank? Write back and let's if we can nail this problem.