I posted the entire procedure, more so for others researching this topic. Also, the torque spec chart is way at the bottom of the fifth drawing, and it doesn't include everything you need.
You'll note nothing is listed for the inner tie rod end. When that is done, it is because the manufacturer designed the part to not be replaced separately. They want you to replace the rack and pinion assembly. It comes with new inner tie rod ends already installed. This is where the aftermarket industry steps up and comes up with the parts and procedures. If you installed a new inner tie rod end, it will include a sheet of instructions that describe the procedure and gives you the torque specs. For the outer tie rod end, use the procedures and specs included with the instruction sheet if one was included. If there was no sheet, use these manufacturer instructions.
It always makes me happy when someone understands the importance of torque specs. I stretched these out but now I see they're still hard to read. Let me know if you'd like me to cut them into pieces that can be expanded even more. My biggest concern is that you need to decipher the outer tie rod spec. Step 5 in the fifth drawing says to tighten that nut to 44 foot-pounds, which seems rather high for a nut that size. In the box below that, it says to tighten it to 15 foot-pounds, then another half turn. That implies it's a "torque-to-yield", or one-time-use nut. The threads are expected to stretch when the nut is tightened. With this type of fastener, the actual torque reading will never go higher as you keep turning it. That's why they specify this method of tightening it.
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Thursday, March 10th, 2022 AT 12:34 PM