My engine will not run over - starter not working?

Good evening,

Not stupid at all.

That green stuff is the cause. You need to replace that cable as all that corrosion is preventing any voltage from flowing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Replace the cable from the battery down with a new cable. You can get them at a parts store. You will need to measure the length of the cable to be sure you have enough cable to run it the same way it is run right there.

Roy

It sounds like there are multiple issues, but it all started with nothing more than a defective battery. The clue is your dandy observation of the excessive corrosion. As all batteries age, the lead slowly flakes off the plates. Battery manufacturers know that is going to happen, and how quickly. They provide the longest warranties they think they can get away with which is typically five years.

As more and more of that lead flakes off the plates, the electrical size of the battery becomes smaller and smaller. It will still crank most engines just fine, but not for as long, if necessary, as when it was new. The bigger concern is when that battery recharges once the engine is running. The amount of charging current going through the battery is determined, in part, by the charging voltage, and that is designed in to match the needs of the entire electrical system. The battery will charge at the intended rate, but with much of the lead flaked off the plates, that current gets packed into a smaller area, and that causes the plates to heat up more than normal.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

from month ago it does not start every time, Changed battery and starter still same it will engage starter but not completely If I keep turning key it will start finally

did the old starter do the same thing? It sounds like a bad solenoid. Also, check the starter relay to make sure it is working properly.

if the starter click but engine not crank over, replace starter will correct the your starting issue. Worked for me

Just bought this car for my kid and when you turn the key to start it, sometimes it works, sometime it does not.

I have held the key all the way forward and it has then turned over, but ussually when I recycle the key and wait 5 seconds, it will then fire.

Does this sometimes...

I have replaced the starter, the relay and jumped the switch at the clutch pedal (manual trans).

Next is the Ignition switch?

No codes come up when scanned with a code scanner (Looked for a ECM issue)

intermittents are hard to find but here is a schematic of the start system for you to check. look a the main fusiblelink where the arrow is. check for maybe one or two strands of wires still connected.if that's is like that replace the whole llink . ancd checkthe fuses underhood as well as the relay. the relay may have corrosion on it, if it doesn try cleaning it as well as the spade connector then put some dielectric compound on it to get better contact.

link looked ok... added new ground strap to motor as well...

Put in a new starter relay but the old one was probally ok...

how hard to put in a new ignition switch?

Removal

1. Disconnect and shield negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL & AIR BAG. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. Remove combination switch (if necessary).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connectors. If shear bolt studs are accessible, use a hacksaw to cut slots into exposed studs. Using a screwdriver, remove studs.
3. If shear bolt studs are recessed or hard to reach with a hacksaw, center punch studs. Using a drill bit and screw extractor, remove studs. Remove ignition switch, column upper bracket and lock cylinder.
4. To remove lock cylinder from column upper bracket, place ignition key to ACC position. Using a screwdriver, push down on stop pin located on side of column upper bracket. Pull out lock cylinder.


Installation

1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Install NEW shear bolts. Tighten shear bolts finger tight. Ensure proper operation of ignition switch and lock cylinder.
2. Tighten shear bolts until heads break off. Install combination switch, upper and lower steering column covers and steering wheel. Tighten steering wheel nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Make absolutely sure that you disconnect the battery so the air bag won'texplode on you. this should really be done by a pro. Also if you have a tilt wheel it's different procedure.

wow... maybe a dealer is the best guy to do this...

No. You can do it quite easily. The directions above are for R&R of the ignition lock cylinder. Here they are for the actual ignition switch. Test it with a meter or test light before deciding it needs to be changed.

STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES -2000 Toyota Celica GT
Page 1 of 1
IGNITION SWITCH
Removal & Installation
1.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove upper and lower steering column covers (it may be necessary to first remove lower instrument panel trim panel). Remove outer plastic trim cover
from lock cylinder assembly (if equipped).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connector(s). Remove screw(s) retaining ignition switch to lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch from lock cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Engine problem
2000 Toyota Celica 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Manual 92,500 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
My Celica has an intemitent no-start problem that seems to recur mostly during cold weather. I turn the key and absolutely nothing happens - no clicking, no cranking, nothing. After several tries (up to 10!) it finally turns over. I have had it to 2 shops, had the battery replaced, but no one can pinpoint the problem. Today it was 20 degrees out and it won't start at all. Help!

[quote:9798c19d30="Jill M"]Engine problem
2000 Toyota Celica 4 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Manual 92,500 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
My Celica has an intemitent no-start problem that seems to recur mostly during cold weather. I turn the key and absolutely nothing happens - no clicking, no cranking, nothing. After several tries (up to 10!) it finally turns over. I have had it to 2 shops, had the battery replaced, but no one can pinpoint the problem. Today it was 20 degrees out and it won't start at all. Help![/quote:9798c19d30]

Hello !!
I would start checking the connectors and terminals on both ends (batt. And Starter)

Then check the "signal" wire that tells the starter to engage (check for a voltage when cranking with a light tester)

and also check the clutch switch

sometimes the solenoid on cold weather freezes and wont "push" the bendix (the gear that turns the flywheel) and the starter motor wont engage (the bendix closes a contact to tell the starter motor to actuate)

check that and let us Know!

Good Luck!

The car is not starting correctly. sometimes it won't start at all. when we charge the battery it will start right up but then the next time we turn it off and go to start it again it won't start. Do we need a new battery or an alternator? like i said it doesn't necessarily do this every time we go to start it.

Hi there,

First make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight, have battery load tested to prove viability and then check charge rate at alternator. With all this ok, check that starter is working. Will it turn over the motor? check this and if still having problems with Starting (not cranking) re post.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hi my name is chris I was recently installing a stereo in my car and the panel fuse blew so as I was changing it smoke came out from behind the steering wheel and I quickly unpluged the batterie and now I tryed starting it and it won't turn over no crank but lights and radio and wipers evetything else works I replaced the AM 1 fuse and starter fuse and it still won't turn on what could it possibly be

Smoke from wires shorting could mean some wires are burnt and you would need to go to the source of the smoke to check the wire harness conditions. The starting circuit is faulty if it is not cranking and you would need to find out where power source is missing.

Recheck your stereo wiring. Some could be wrongly installed or a wire is exposed causing the shorting.

I have a 1994 Toyota Celica with 275,000 miles. Recently the car has developed a cranking issue. If will crank and start up great in the mornings with no problems, but if I travel for a short distance and turn the car off, when I try to start the car it will not start. no issue with battery. Lights, radio works, it just will not start, after several hours, it finally starts as it nothing was wrong. HELP!

assuming you mean it wont crank,could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops.

I have a 1994 Toyota celica 1.8L DOHC. I hooked the battery up backwards and tried to start the car. Its now on right but will not start or shift out of park. Also, the brake/tail lights and dash lights will not work. Power locks and windows will not work

Did you check all the fuses?Also please finsh your details on the problem your having.

Yes. I mentioned in the question that the fuses and relays are all good. Also that the starter and battery are good. I can jump the car by running a hot wire from the starter to the battery and it will run. I believe all of the details are included in the question. Thnak you

I can not figure out how to edit the question and apparently all of the info i entered did not show up. Let me clarify. I have checked the battery, starter, fuses and relays. I have checked the fusible link running from the battery. The car will do nothing (no sound) when you turn the key. The brake/tail lights and dash lights and pwr windows and locks will not work. Headlights and interiors do work. The car will not shift out of park. Sorry the details did not show up.

How did you make sure the fuses were good?By making sure there was power to both sides of the fuses thats the proper way to check them.Lets start with making sure you have power to both sides of the 60 amp main fuse in the underhood fuse on the left side of the engine comparment.

I will replace it just to be sure. Thank you.

The reason i say to check for power on both sides of fuse is one to see if the fuse and two to make sure there is power going to the fuse.There is a fuseable link that feeds that fuse so i want to make sure the fuse is getting power.You have a multimeter correct?Let me know what you find.

Ok.. Upon further inspection, I figured out that my 100amp fusible link was blown. I replaced it and everything is working again, but the car will still not start. After replacing the fuse, the cars security system was acting weird. I dont know if its pertinent but it never has before. I thought the security system was disabled or didnt work. There were lights flashing in the rear similar to hazards and there was a light blinking by the steering wheel. I unhooked it because its the only way that the lights would go off.

Is this a factory or aftermarket security system?Does it crank and no start or no crank no start?

I believe it is factory, but i am not sure to be honest with you. It must have had problems in the past because the wires under the hood have been unhooked since i bought the car a few months ago. It does nothing at all when I try to start it. No crank, no start. We did have the car running earlier in this process by jumping the starter. I am getting nothing at all when turning the key though.

I dont see a factory security system on that car.Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?

No, but I can pick up one if necessary. I have been using a test light.

You can use the test light for now with the key in the start position the red and black wire coming off the ignition switch should have power.Also key in the start position you should have power to the black wire to the starter solenoid on the starter.Also do you have a automatic or stick shift car?

There is no power coming from the ignition switch. I unplugged the connector on back of the switch and tested the contacts on them in the start position. The light would not come on. There is power going to the starter solenoid. Is the ignition switch bad? I have an automatic. Sorry about the delayed reply i have been busy.

With the ignition switch plugged in do you have power to the black wire with a red tracer?Also with the key in the start position do you have power to the black wire with a white tracer?Let me know and we will go from there.

I have already taken off the ignition switch. After reading various ways to check it, I figured it was bad. I can put it back on if you would like unless there is a way to check with it off.

Its easier to check with it on please let me know what you find.

Ok. There is power to both of the wires.

Then that means the switch is working.You said you had power to the starter but is it to the smaller black wire hooked to the starter solenoid with the key in the start position?

Just checked again. The smaller black wire is very hard to get to. I have been probing the wires with my test light. I did get into it and i am not getting power

Ok with the key in the start position see if you have power to both sides of the ST fuse its a 7.5amp in the instrument panel junction box in the left kick panel.Also do you have a manual transmission or automatic?