Stuck tie rod?

You got the first part right, but I don't know what you're describing about a U-bolt.

At the dealership, I used to see a lot of cars come in once a year for a maintenance alignment. To keep the joint freed up that is giving you trouble, I lubed them with Chrysler's Rust Penetrant. That turned out to be a huge mistake. It is really good at freeing up rusted parts, but then it opens the way for moisture to follow it in and rust the parts really tight. The way to solve that when you are not replacing the inner tie rod end is to put the tapered stud back in its hole to hold it, then heat the outer with an acetylene torch, and turn the inner with a Vise Grip pliers. When you put this joint back together, use Chrysler's Spray White Lube, or the same thing from a hardware store. That's a lithium-based grease that does a good job at keeping parts freed up.

Since you are replacing both parts, it is perfectly fine to cut the inner tie rod end. You'll still need the special socket to install the new inner, so you can use that on the old one. Then it doesn't matter where you cut it.

You'll need the tie rod socket that uses a crow's foot wrench. Unless you're going to have more use for it later, you can borrow that set from any auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. Most make you buy it, then you get a full refund when you return it. If you choose to keep a tool, you still return it, then they give or order you a brand new one. For the style tie rod you have, the second photo show the socket you need with a number of crow's foot inserts.