Stalling and will not go faster than 9-18 MPH, stuck in limp mode?

Hi,

Are there any diagnostic trouble codes stored? If you haven't checked for codes, start with that.

Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2IJGfImVvw

Next, if there is no power, one of the first things that comes to mind is a plugged catalytic converter. If there is a restriction in the exhaust, this can happen.

Take a look through this and let me know if you feel it mirrors what you experience:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Let me know.

Joe

If you can see through them, they should be okay. The easiest thing to try is to remove an oxygen sensor upstream from the converter. If the converter is the issue, the O2 opening will allow an exit for the exhaust. It won't be perfect, but it will be enough to make a difference.

You asked a question in your first post. I'm not sure what you are referring to. You asked, ". Told tho check check valves, how do we do that?" What are we checking?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

I am so sorry, but the only combination valve I'm familiar with is the brake system. Take a pic of what you are looking at and upload it for me to see.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

When you have low voltage in a circuit, the most common cause is either a loose connection or corrosion at one of the connectors.

When you replaced the MAF, was the connector in good condition? Check to see if there is any corrosion on the pins or if one is pushed out or damaged.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Yes, you can use a voltmeter rather than a test light. As far as the low voltage, that can be a faulty module, a damaged wire shorting to ground, and so on. Also, there is nothing other than inspecting the connector pins for damage. Just make sure they are not bent, pushed in, or corroded.

As far as the parts you are getting, since you had issues, try a different brand. Some of the parts we have been seeing are poorly made and faulty out of the box.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi,

I didn't realize you were out of town. If you are feeling a misfire, it certainly could be a coil-related issue.

Let me know if that takes care of the issue.

Joe

Hi,

Is a P0300 the only code you are getting?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

I can tell how important this car is to you, so let's try our best to get it fixed. Since the only code is a P0300, it could be several different things. For example, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, engine compression, and the list goes on.

Let's start from the beginning. Explain the exact symptoms that you are experiencing, and what has been done, and I will do my best to get it figured out for you.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

Hi,

I just noticed this question. Sorry for the delay. As far as an Explorer is concerned, they are solid vehicles. However, I'm not sure where you are located. If you are where salt or chloride is used in the winter on the roads, check for rust issues. The floor, inner rocker panels, around the fuel tank filler, and check bumper mounts.

If it has a 4.0L, they are a good engine but make sure it has been maintained. I'm not sure how many miles are on it, so do things like removing the oil fill cap and look down inside to make sure it isn't caked with dirt. If you have a scan tool, take it with you to confirm there are no codes and that nothing has been recently cleared.

With the hood open, inspect it for any oil leaks, evidence of wiring repairs, and vacuum hoses that are disconnected or damaged.

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe