Starter not working

When I put the key in the ignition and crank it, the car will turn over but stays on for just a second. Its like it is gettin just a little bit of gas. Does that sound like a plug problem? It has plenty of gas

After 3 attempts to get the problem fixed w/our personel mechanic, the problem is still happening. He says it is the ignition, and has put in a dummy switch under the dash to start the car with when turning the key don't work. But even the dummy switch has failed to work the last time it refuse to turn over. The battery has been tested-fully charged. Fuses have been checked and a complete overhaul done. If it is the wiring in the console for the switch, is that something I can do myself, or required by by a mechanic. What would the cost be? Or would there be another reason tthat would be cause the problems I have decrided? HELP!

Engine sound like it wants to turn over but doesn't
Thus far I'v checked for fuel at the rail and there is good fuel flow from the schraider valve and I 've checked for spark on the front 3 plug wires and have good spark. So. Whats next?

What should the correct fuel pressure be? And as far as the security light goes, it's blinking prior to actually turning the key

Will do! May take a day or two but I'll get"m

When I try to start my car when it is hot outside it will not crank. I have to keep trying until the ignition engages. Sometimes I have to shake the car, close the door several times or pound on the steering wheel and then it will crank over. Had this issue last summer then it stopped happening all fall and winter. Now the problem is happening again.

When this condition happens, the windows will not work, radio quits. Brake Pedal makes a clicking sound. Heater controls still work. Power lock will not work.

Once started the condition will continue off and on at random. The car will remain running but some indicator lights on the dash will turn off some will turn on radio will turn off and on with the condition but the car continues to run.

Ok we were able to get it started this weekend using Gumout carb cleaner. Trying to find a fuel pressure gauge today. So should the pressure be a steady 50-60psi? Seams as though if I leave it on each time the ign is put to the on position the pressure will always meet the requirements. Is this a correct statement.

As far as codes go, out of 15, 10 were abs codes ( he's got a lot of dummy light on ever since the mech in WV by-passed somthing so we get back home), 3 were evaporator type codes and the last 2, 1 was loss of communication and somthing about MOD bus communication fault.
Now the fuel pressure test was also done with the following results. Fuel pressure stayed at 54psi until the fuel stopped (timed out)at around the 5-6 seconds time frame and then dropped down to 48psi.