My starter is not working?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

If it always starts when you jump start it, I suspect there is an issue with an electrical connection. Most often, it is at the battery itself. Take a look through this link and let me know if it helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Now, what would be really helpful is when it doesn't start, is to check if the starter is getting power at the solenoid when the key is in the start position. If you can do that, it will really be helpful. Here is a link that shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

If that isn't the issue, we need to check the starter relay. Keep in mind, a starter can work one time and not the next. I attached a picture showing which one is the correct one to test. Here is a link that explains how to check a relay:

To be honest, my first suspect is a weak connection at the battery which is improved when a jumper cable clamp is put on it. So, check that first.

Here are a few links that may be helpful to you. I figured I would add them in case you need them.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

i drove the car friday nite without any problems. i go to start the car saturday, and it wont turn over. everything has power- the lights ,the radio, etc. it seems like there isnt any pwer getting to the engine

Do you hear any light clicking under the hood from the starter relay, or do you hear a single rather loud clunk each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank"?

For a loud clunk, keep trying it until it cranks, which it will, . . . eventually. There's a simple repair for that. If the starter relay doesn't click, suspect the neutral safety switch. Try starting it in neutral instead of park. We can split the circuit into four parts and do all the preliminary testing right in the starter relay socket.

Measure the battery voltage too. It should be 12.6 volts. If it's 12.2 volts, it's good but discharged. Closer to 11 volts means it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

we just replaced the battery and now when we try to start the car it just clicks. What is happening now?

Hi:
I need you to check two things. You will need a volt meter. First, check the battery power. It should be 12+ volts. Next, have a helper turn the key to the start position and check the smaller wire on the starter. You should have 12 volts there to. If you do, remove the starter and have it bench tested at a parts store. Chances are the solenoid is bad on the starter.

Before all of this, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, and the ground to the engine block is clean and tight too.

Let me know what you find.

joe

I am having some issues with my vehicle 2.5 liter v6. When i go to start the car the other day it acted like it didn't want to start. It was very slow start. then yesterday try to start her up again now nothing. i do hear a rapid clicking noise when trying to start her. The battery is good, alternator is also good. Everything lights up on the dash but still nothing. What should i do now and what am i missing here?

The rapid clicking of the starter relay is the classic symptom of low voltage to the starter solenoid, either due to a run-down battery or a corroded cable connection. First measure the exact battery voltage. It should be 12.6 volts. If you find it's around 12.2 volts, it is discharged. Charge it at a slow rate for an hour or two, then try cranking the engine. If it's around 11 volts or less, it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.

If you do get the engine started, measure the battery voltage again while the engine is running, and tell me what you find.

Okay, thank you i was leaning towards the battery as well. I did the thing were you can test your battery by turning on the headlights to see if they would dim or not and they didn't but my theory is doesn't mean the battery isn't bad right? And also there for awhile i would have to jump my car just about every morning then it would be fine for awhile then have to jump it again. so i am leaning towards that.

Unfortunately this test of the battery is not accurate. Here is a guide that will show how to load test this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Let's run through this and report back what you find. However, if you need a battery here is a guide that will help with this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Thanks

Hello, I have been having starting issues and having to get jump starts. Went to have my car checked battery, starter, alternator all checked out okay. But when I go to start my car nothing had to get a jump. When trying to attempt to start it would not start (crank but no start). My question is, what would causing this? What do I need to look for first? I was leaning towards the distributor or cap and rotor. I do not know. I need help please.

Good morning.

How did you test the battery and charging system? It sounds like you have low voltage and that starts at the battery.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Yes, had the battery and alternator tested at a shop the diodes were good.

And the check engine light came on then went off. Maybe I should have gotten it checked when it first came on.

There is long term memory in the system. You can still have it checked. It will just show inactive.

You have a voltage issue here. My gut is telling me it is battery related.

What do you mean by diodes checked?

What was the charging voltage?

Roy

The alternator said the diodes were good. Funny thing is I replaced the battery twice by Interstate batteries something tells me there batteries are not any good or maybe my car does not like them, lol. Do not understand how I can replace two batteries less than a year.

That usually is a result of a failed alternator.

What do you mean the alternator told you the diodes were good? Do not understand that.

What is the voltage at the battery with the engine running?

Roy

I checked the battery with my multimeter and read 12.15 volts not a good reading and then i hooked up another digital meter that tells me the alternator and battery volts and it lid up red said the battery had 50 or less charge on it like i said before been having issues with the battery and when it had a very slow start the other day i had to place my foot on the gas and she fired right up. Any suggestions why it would start like that?? Its weird

11 1 is very low. It needs to be 12 6.

I am still concerned about the charging voltage. Can I have the exact voltage

Roy

12.1 when i checked it.

I have the vehicle listed above ES model that was having a problem with stalling at idle and sometimes bucking when under acceleration. I went to start the car the other day and the engine spin fine but it did not crank. It sounded like the starter was just spinning. I tapped on the starter to see if the solenoid was bad and nothing changed. I then pulled a spark plug wire at the spark plug and cranked the engine and no spark. I then pulled a wire at the distributor cap and no spark. I then pulled a different wire and cranked the engine and the spark looked orange and very weak. Does this sound like a bad coil in the distributor?

Thanks

Make sure the battery has a full charge and connections all good, positive and negative. If the starter motor is only spinning and not cranking the engine, have to check starter motor and flywheel teeth.
As far as stalling at idle, my first thought is check IAC motor, any trouble codes point in that direction? You can try cleaning your throttle body and throttle valve with old tooth brush. Some solvents aren't meant to be used on throttle bodies. How long since overall tune-up?
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Sorry I meant 12.1 is very low .

Roy

There is no spark at the spark plugs. Would that still indicate a bad starter? Also, if the battery was bad the starter would not be turning, correct? I have already cleaned the throttle body and replaced the IAC and TPS and the car still stalls. At this time I am just trying to get the car to start again. I am only a backyard mechanic, but you do need fuel and spark to start the engine and if there is not one or the other the car will not start. I am not sure if it is the distributor coil or another sensor which supplies spark to the plugs.

Thanks

I bought a new battery my old one was dead no good. I installed the battery still nothing, when i try to start it i still hear clicking. Where do i go from here?

If the starter motor cranks the engine, the starter motor should be okay. Cranking is starter motor action not starting. I'm trying to make sure we're on the same page? If you use a digital multi-meter across battery posts, everything off, 12.6 volts is generic spec for full charge. Leave the leads touching the battery posts while helper turns key to crank, how far does the voltage drop, Usually shouldn't drop below 9 volts. Some vehicles say 9.6 volts, some say 10 volts, but, you get the idea, if it drops way down there, have to get battery charged.
I wondered about your battery because you said weak spark, certainly there could be other issues. Any applicable trouble codes? It seems I have heard of problems with distributor assembly, but, I can't be positive that is your problem? I'd hate to see you replace something and it not fix it.

There is no spark at the plugs, but there is an orange spark when I pulled one of the wires off the distributor cap. If the timing belt was bad would I get spark to the spark plugs or distributor? I have no engine light on in the dash. It sort of sounds like the starter is not engaging but if that was the case why would I not be getting spark? I have replaced the starter a couple of times so that is the first thing I thought could be wrong until I saw there was not spark. I have been having an idling problem in which a friend of mine told me could be the coil in the distributor, but since no one besides me has worked on the car recently he is just guessing. I have read online that it could be the EGR valve for the idling problem, but that would not cause the no spark problem. At this point I do not know what to do.

And behind my radio there are two relays which relays are they? I was thinking the power door locks and maybe starter relay?

Hopefully it is not the timing belt as I do not want to go through that horror story again when someone tried to fix it a while back.

Okay, do you have a voltmeter to do some testing in the starting circuit?

Check the fuses listed for power on both sides.

Roy

Update: after charging the battery overnight I tried starting the car this morning and after giving it a lot of gas it finally started but is running rough. Could it be the fuel pump? I am stumped at this time and really have no clue what might be going on but since this is my only vehicle I need to find out what the problem may be. Thanks

The basics for a rough idle, check for a leak of some kind, fuel, EGR, vacuum. I did look at your fuel pressure spec, it said 47--51 psi, key on engine off. so if in the middle should be fine.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Okay, I will break it down. I went to to my car today and of course I got a jump okay now when I go to start the car it hesitates then she will start then stall. I will wait a few seconds try again then starts then stalls again. Finally third times the charm she starts up finally. What is causing this? I am stumped maybe a ignition issue? Distributor and or cap issue? Leaking vacuum hose? I really do not know. I need some advice on this issue. And my battery is fine it says between 13-14 volts when running so ruling out that. So what ever is causing the start then stall issue is causing my battery needing to be jumped. Something is draining the battery.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The voltage at your battery when running is being produced by the alternator. You need to load test the battery with the engine off. Here is a quick link for that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Now, the issue with taking three times to stay running sounds like the fuel pump is losing prime. What I want you to try is this. Turn the key to the run position (not start) and count to five and turn it off. Do that procedure three times and on the fourth, start it.

Do that and let me know what happens.

Take care,
Joe

Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow and I will let you know.

Welcome back:

Let me know. By cycling the switch, you are allowing the pump to re-prime the system. If it starts right up, we need to determine why it loses pressure.

Take care and I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Could it be maybe the fuel filter? I have had the car for five years now and never replaced it. Before I bought it had been sitting him the guys driveway for five years before I bought it so I was thinking could be that.

Welcome back:

Most certainly it could be the filter preventing pressure issues. Here is a general description showing how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The pictures below show common causes of low fuel pressure or why pressure can drop. Note that one possibility is a clogged fuel filter.

The fuel pressure your vehicle should have is the following:

Measure fuel pressure while the engine is running at idle.
Standard value: 324 - 343 kPa (47 - 50 psi)


Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi guys. Please allow me to stick my nose in here and add one wondrous comment of great value. When I read the engine starts, then stalls, this is an extremely common problem on Chrysler products after the battery has been run dead or has been disconnected. All other data will be relearned as soon as you start driving, except for "minimum throttle". A very specific set of conditions must be met for that to take place. The clue is the engine will stay running when you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". You may also notice good cranking with a total failure to start, or stalling at stop signs.

To trigger the relearn to occur, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals. The Engine Computer wants to see high manifold vacuum for seven seconds, (so it knows you are coasting and therefore the car is moving), and it must see a rock-solid signal voltage from the throttle position sensor. After seven seconds, it puts the TPS voltage into memory. From then on, any time it sees that same voltage, it knows your foot is off the accelerator pedal, and it must be in control of idle speed.

As a mechanic, a test-drive to perform this relearn should be part of any service that required disconnecting the battery, or you should explain the need for this procedure to the customer. That will prevent customers from returning with a complaint. Even if you let them go without this explanation, the relearn will take place on any typical off-ramp, but the owner might remember the original stalling problem and falsely associate it with shoddy workmanship.

1996 dod av es 6cyl will not start,6mo old battery,everything has been inspected, posts,wires and wtr lvl in battery. everything went black, no power,lights nothing. Chg battery for 4/hrs and car started, what happened to make everthing go black?
Thx, Hank

There might of been somthing in the system that completely shorted out the battery, an open circuit, light on, or bad alternator. Any of those things will compleletly kill a battery down to the point of no power at all which will cause that black out where nothing in the vehicle will turn on until charged.

Hope this helps!