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Starting issue

Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 MAZDA MX3
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 92,500 MILES
So here is my problem: Car runs fine and drives fine. But I cannot start this car unless I press the gas pedal while cranking it over. I have done everything I can think of. Spark plugs/wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter/pump, fuel injectors, MAF sensor, TPS sensor, cleaned throttle body, new battery, o2 sensor, PCV valve, ignition coil that sends spark to the distributor. I've replaced all of these things and nothing. Some of these needed replacement anyways, but some of it was probably fine. I would really appreciate some insight. Thanks
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Tuesday, October 5th, 2021 AT 4:09 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Hello.

Try this: Without touching the gas pedal at all, turn the key on for a few seconds, then off, then on for a few seconds, then off again, then on again, and then crank it without touching the gas. If it starts, the problem is fuel pressure related. Rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the local auto parts shop and see what readings you get. While I know you've replaced the pump already, it wouldn't be the first, or second, or third time I've heard of a defective aftermarket fuel pump. They're pretty common, unfortunately. I'm attaching Prodemand's instructions on running the fuel pressure test in the images below. Also, we have a more general guide on that here: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Has the timing belt ever been replaced? The car is 26 years old and according to Mazda it should've been due at about 60,000 miles. If that hasn't been done, do it now, before the timing jumps on you.

I'm attaching images containing Prodemand's instructions on how to do the job specific to this car. And here's some general information on timing belts: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-timing-belt-works

Start with checking into these things and we'll go from there.
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Tuesday, October 5th, 2021 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I will get back to you on this key method. And I didn't mention it but yes I changed the timing belt last year.
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Tuesday, October 5th, 2021 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a few days. Have you been able to make any progress? Is there anything we can do to help? We're interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, October 8th, 2021 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Hello. I've been meaning to get back to you. So, I didn't have any luck clicking the key for the fuel pump, but here is some more information. When I bought the car one year ago it had no trouble starting up on its own but one day when I took it on the highway and got back home the idle was extremely high (15-1700 RPMs) so I turned it down and I thing that is when it started having trouble, but I can't remember. I do however remember if it wasn't having trouble then it was after my dad and I replaced the timing belt/water pump. I wonder to this day if the timing was set wrong. Not sure if any of this is helpful enough to lead to an answer but I've been adjusting the idle screw these past few days and it's acting like it's wanting to start on its own now. I will finally start on its own after being warm, like when I go to the store to grab a few items and come back it will start, but cold start and sitting for a while is still an issue.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Do me a favor. Take a look through the adjustment procedure below and let me know if this is how you are doing it.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:25 PM
Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Yes, that is exactly how I am doing it. Using a paperclip to connect ten and gnd together. But here's the thing: if you set the engine at 750 the car won't idle. I can't get it to run below 850. And even then, if I want light and heater to be on it has to be set past 1,000. I don't know if it's an air issue or fuel or electrical.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
But that's with ten and gnd connected. When you take the clip out my light gun shows it go down to 780-800.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Okay, do me a favor, if possible, record what it is doing so I can hear the engine and how it reacts with a load placed on it.

Have you checked or serviced the idle air control valve? That is what is responsible for maintaining the idle speed when a load is placed on the engine. Also, that is what allows air to enter the engine when the throttle plate is fully closed. If it's plugged, the engine will be restricted of air, and it won't run with your foot off the throttle.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
BRANDONTRUENO86
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I have had that thought about the idle air control valve being the issue but with where it is located I honestly don't know how I would remove it.
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
You need to take the top off the throttle body. The idle air control valve is an integral sub-component of the by-pass air control (BAC) valve assembly. It can't be replaced separately, but there is a chance things are plugged.

Here is a link you may find helpful to service the unit:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, October 9th, 2021 AT 9:28 PM

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