Starting and stalling

Hi,

What you described sounds like a faulty crankshaft position sensor. When they begin to fail, oftentimes they are affected by heat. Do me a favor. Take a look through this link and let me know if you feel it mirrors what you experience:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know as much as you can as far as symptoms. For example, are there any odd odors, sounds, or anything you can think of? Also, does it always start right back up after it stalls?

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, that makes me think it might be that. So, next is where is it and how hard to fix? The rest of your answer is no smell and will start only after a long while. Acts like not getting gas. But I know it has gas, pump works, new alternator, newer battery. Filter is good new spark wires. New starter, new disputer. Thank you for your help.

Also it is a 1995 k2500 exbed 4/4 5.0.

Everything says that my truck don't have one.

You are correct, that is my mistake. I am so used to vehicles having them anymore, I forget there was a different design. Ugh. Sorry about that.

So, here is what I need you to do. In place of the sensor, a distributor ignition control module is used (DIC). I believe this one is on the side of or under the coils (see pic 1) What I need you to do is check if the spark plugs are getting spark when it won't start. If you find they are, see if it starts for a couple of seconds and then stalls using starting fluid. If it does, we have a fuel issue (I realize all that has been replaced) but I need to explain why I'm having you do this. If there is no change with using starting fluid, suspect there is no spark.

Here is a link that explains how to check for spark:


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know. I have all the diagnostics for the ignition but suspect it is likely the DIC if there is no spark.

However, to help confirm, I need you to retrieve codes. This has an OBD1 system that doesn't require a scanner. All you need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip. Follow the directions in this link. If you find code 42, I feel the DIC is the issue. If it isn't, the PCM may have failed.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I replaced the ignition control switch thing in the back it's still it's turning over but no spark.

Do me a favor. Locate the pink wire at the coil harness. With the key in the run position and run position, that should have battery voltage. It is supplied via the ignition switch.

You will need a helper to do this. First, with the engine off/key in the run position, see if there is power to it. If there isn't, have the helper crank the engine. Is there power to it in the start position? If there is and the light goes off when the key is released, it sounds like the switch may be bad.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

New starter, ignition control module, new spark plug wires, but fuel pump works, fuel filter clean. It turns over but will not start. It does not have crank sensor it is too old for that, that's how distributor seems to be okay. new battery.

Hi,

This could be a few different issues. However, we need to narrow it down. Here is what I need you to do:

Using starting fluid, see if it starts for a couple of seconds. If it does and then stalls, we know it is fuel related. If there is no change, it is likely ignition related.

At that point, we need to check for spark to the plugs. Here is a link that explains how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know what you find. Also, let me know if you have checked for diagnostic trouble codes.

Take care,

Joe

I am replacing plugs and ignition control module and ignition coil. And yes, I am getting gas. I just have no spark. So, I get the parts on Friday keep fingers crossed.

Hi,

Thank you for the update. I will keep my fingers crossed for you. If you can, let me know if it takes care of the problem.

Take care,

Joe