Starter issues

Hello, it sounds like you're going to be checking a lot of fuses to start with. I have included the diagrams and fuse panel locations with the fuse label and pin #. These are stock Ford diagrams, so I don't know what else you have changed or not. I think you're just missing a fuse or fusible link. You can see some examples of fusible links in the 3rd picture. I'm including a few guides to help with wiring basics. This all should give you some direction. Let us know what you find and if you have any more questions. I know Ford's don't label their fuse panels fuses well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I can look into that for you, have you gone through all the fuses, not just the starter circuit, but all of them. A direct short to ground like that can burn all kinds of things, especially since it was the starter cable which is larger to handle a huge amount of amps during cranking. And can you also check that all the different lights and other options in the vehicle are operating correctly please. Check as many things as you can so we know you don't have any damaged modules. Do you own a multimeter? If not, that and a 12 volt automotive test light is a really good investment, they're not expensive and will help us, to help you diagnose issues. Do you have the model with the center console option? This will aid in my finding the correct diagrams easier. I'll look into the remote anti-theft module some more and get back to you today. But collect as much information as you can about what's going on. I can only go by what you tell me, so we have to work together. One thing I'd like you to try real quick is starting the vehicle in neutral with the brakes applied. I don't think it will make any difference, but I'm looking at this RAP system. And it actually interrupts the starter circuit if its triggered. Try disarming the car with the remote too. But I'll keep focusing on the RAP system.

Okay, I found the RAP system and how it can disable certain components if it's triggered. But I need you to check the 2 fusible links first. They're in the first diagram, I know it looks like a diagram I posted previously but with a short to ground these are to protect the rest of the vehicles systems. If a fusible link opens due to a short you may not be able to tell just by looking at them. They need to have a complete circuit threw them. Most times they just burn up inside. You'll need to check that battery power is making it threw both of them. I have instructions for reprogramming the rap module if necessary plus a technical service bulletin about static electricity discharging from the 2 front seats and causing the rap module to fail. The Rap module is located behind the panel for the tire iron above the left rear wheel well. I'll provide that information after we make sure there's no power issues because reprogramming erases all the remote entry memory. There is also a proper way to unplug the module, if the larger of it's 2 connectors is unplugged first, the module will register an ignition tamper and trigger the alarm when reconnected. So we need to verify that there's no other issues first.