Cranks will not start?

If when you try to start the engine and it turns over meaning cranks, then the starter and starting system are okay. If the engine does not start then you have an engine issue.

Here is a guide that will help with that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Basically you need fuel, spark at the right time, and compression to start the engine. So let's start narrowing that down. Start with spraying some starter fluid in the intake and see if the engine fires. If it does not then pull a plug and hold it against the block and crank the engine. See if the plug fires. If it does then we can more onto compression but this is unlikely unless something happened to the engine.

Start with this and we can go from there. Thanks

Reckon the "groan" is the starter teeth grinding and not engaging to the flywheel?

If so, The starter might require "shims" ($5 or less at the auto parts store) to space it out a little from the flywheel.

This will let the starter drive push into and mesh with the flywheel teeth, instead of hitting the flywheel face and just spinning.

Let us know what you get all figgered out!

The Medic

Gonna show you a bunch of different shims in a minute.

Right now,

My 1st pic shows where the shim goes (pretty darn EZ!)

Many times shims are unnecessary (this is usually a GM problem-maybe poor designing)

Different starters use different shapes/ hole distances/ etc. (like a zig-zag)

They come in different thicknesses, I normally see 'em 3 in a pack, 1/16", and two 1/32" (I mostly do older "Jeeps", every now and again I'll see this situation on an old chevy)

I'm pretty sure that #1 in the pic is what you will need, most likely the one you use will be the same shape, as I looked up your starter at an online parts store (I don't think you will need #2 in my pic)

The auto parts store should be able to look up the type shims you need.

When I have put these on in the past, I always tried a thin one 1st, as my luck goes, I usually end up removing it and putting in the thick one. In some cases you gotta put more in. It's sometimes a trial and error thing to get it acceptable.

Now, I generally put in the thick one 1st time and that usually does it!

It's EZ!

Disconnect the negative side of the battery, if the starter is dangling during this task, you could accidentally ground the hot wire on the starter! This will prevent the issue.

2 bolts hold the starter in/ up, one will need to come completely out (you will know which will make this EZer when you see what must be done and the room you have to do it!)

Loosen the other bolt maybe 5 turns, the starter will now be gapped down a little bit from what is bolted to.

Insert Mr. Shim forked end 1st, the fork needs to fork around the bolt that you loosened, best done if you attack the bolt from the side. Keep it shoved around the bolt.

Rotate the shim so that the hole in it lines up with the starter bolt hole you can run the bolt you took out Thru the starter/ Thru the shim/ Screw it back it's hole. You may have to scoot it a little bit to get the hole in the shim lined up for the bolt.

Tighten the 2 starter bolts back up.

Hook Mr. Battery back up.

Basically, this is a "washer" between the starter and the housing.

Here's the whole sha-bang as to what you might need, I'd go with the auto parts stores suggestion!

https://www.searchlock.com/search?safe=&start=0&qn=&tbm=isch&sr=sb&rescnt=&q=gm+starter+shims

Pretty Simple

Keeps us posted!

The Medic

2nd pic), my daughter, back at age 10 demonstrates how to start "Willy" should the electric starter ever become uncooperative.

3rd) Grandmonsters

Repair manual you can download it here its cheap-You can start by checking for spark-

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Welcome to the forum. Are you saying it cranks good but won't start or it won't even crank? If it won't even crank, make sure battery has a full charge and the connections are good. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. Use a gage and check fuel pressure.

Clean out the idle air control valve also Check the fuel pressure with a gauge to rule out a failing fuel pump-start here

DTC - 58 Trans fluid temp sensor circuit error (low voltage).

Check and test the coolant temperature sensor

Could be the security system