Stalls when driving?

Hi,

Since you just had work done, I suspect you have a vacuum leak. Here is a link that explains how to locate and repair one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

If nothing is found, the next suspect would be the idle air control valve. This component is what is responsible for maintaining idle speed. When you place a load on the engine such as from the power steering, the IAC adjust engine speed to compensate.

IF you look at the attached pic, I circled the component. It is on the throttle body. Check to make sure nothing is disconnected or damaged there.

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Honestly, since you just had work done, chances are it is a vacuum leak rather than the IAC. Check that and let me know if it helps.

Joe

Engine Performance problem
1997 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Automatic 131.00 miles

after i had a taken the car to the dealer,done a tune up,coil,distributor,one fuel injector replaced,and the computer,still i come home and the car have the same symptoms,runs better do,i had an engine light come on,it is the egr valve,i took it out cleaned,replace the hose and the gasket check,replace oil filter transmission fluid and pcv valve,while i was at it,the first test was i put back the platinum plugs,when i turn the engine on the lengine light went off.i test and drives almost the same but as before but stalling and esitating,i put back the nkg regular plugs and it runs better no stalling or choking,do you think the egr valve is bad or it could be someting else,it only gets worse when i put the platinum plugs brand new, but sometimes the car is running and it does a stall, almost fells like a small cough.i had a nightmare with the mazda dealer they charge me about 800$ and the problem it is still there ,aprreciate your proffessional opinion,any help is appreciated.thanks jack

Hi Jack,

Are the Paltinum plugs of the correct rating?
Seems the EGR valve is not functioning as well as it should.

Is the Check Engine Light still showing? What is the exact DTC retrieved?

I have owned this car for about 4 years and haven't had too many problems with it. It is easy on gas and with today's prices this is an issue. however, a few weeks ago, it started to not idle when waiting at a red light or even a stop sign. It would run just fine, but when you had to stop somewhere, the motor would race up and down like it wasn't idling right and would then die. I would throw it into neutral and things would be okay but last evening, it started "jumping" again and this time it totally died. I couldn't get it to start again. when you turn the key over, it acts like its out of gas, however it is not, just won't start. I was thinking that it may be the fuel filter but am not sure. I lost the manual book and do not know where it is located. Any suggestions??

you need to check for spark and fuel pressure
check if its due for tune up
check timing belt
check for vacuum leaks
for more inf. on how to do that
check our video collection
https://www.2carpros.com/video.htm

Let me know what is missing

The car doesnt seem to be overheating or anything like that. It died and wouldnt start again. Went out next day to try to start it and it did. Im too afraid to drive it anywhere because I dont want to be stuck on side of road with my kids. What are you suggestions on what to look at? Plenty of gas, good spark, fluids are topped. Car smells like gas really bad when it is running.

The fuel smell is a concern. Make sure there are no fuel leaks. Next, you need to run the engine till it dies again. When it won't start, you need to check for spark and fuel to the engine. There are directions on the homepage under the DIY section. One will be missing, fuel or spark. Once you identify that, then you can focus on that circuit. NOTE: If the check engine light was on, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. That will point you in the right direction.

1996 Mazda Protege 1.5l. My car starts fine but when you put it in gear to take off it won't pick up speed, when idle it runs fine. I try and take off and it will barely pull or not pull at all. I have changed out the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure. The mechanic has changed out everything. He said the problem is electrical.

Go to this link for more information

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates

All these things have been checked.

Have you check the exhaust system for restriction?

He checked the exhaust system and catalytic converter, he said it wasn't those things.

my 96 protege just shut off while driving pretty sure the fuel pump is working but not sure its getting fire to the plugs any ideas

Check/Test the MAF and TPS sensors

check for spark and fuel.

He changed the MAF, that is what the diagnostic test said it was, but it wasn't that. I will ask about TPS sensors. When he pinches off the fuel return line the car runs fine.

its not getting spark but is getting fuel

Check the fuel pressure regulator with/without vacuum

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

He changed the fuel pressure regulator.

95 Mazda Protege, I had an issue with the car a while back. Was driving great, and then one day, got in to go home, it didn't want to turn over. Tow driver said it WASN'T my battery, which made sense because everything else was working fine. Took the car to my mechanic, he said "Its' getting fire, and fuel. Must be the computer". He showed me the computer, and I noticed that there was something from the previous owner spilled on it (Its located beneath the cup holders) I had the car towed home (My mechanic couldn't find a computer for the car for over a month). I cleaned the prongs of the connectors on the computer, reinstalled it, and then with a little umph, it started up. I drove it around my house for a bit, with no trouble. Shut it off, then back on. No problem. Put everything back together (console and gear shift cover) Started again, and began to drive again. At this point, the car shut off in mid drive in 2nd gear. I restarted with problems not wanting to start, but then it would turn over, just to do stall out again mid drive. Is it the computer, or something else?? THANK YOU!!

Yes, it could be the computer. What you'll need to do is; When the stalling condition exists, try to determine what is missing. Spark, fuel pressure, fuel injector pulse, or any combination of the above. If you can narrow this down, we can go from there. Otherwise, we're just guessing. And guessing can get expensive on your part. Please advise.

1995 Mazda Protege, 200K + miles; stick;
Car is hard to start, will not accelerate nor hold speed on a hill without stalling, even when there is no load. Has good spark. When running can slowly rev the engine, if a quick acceleration is tried, engine stalls. If a quick but small acceleration is tried, then held eventually the engine will catch up. Replaced fuel pump & fuel filter.
Q? Fuel regulator? Timing belt? or ??

Check engine light is it On or has flashed?

Last major tune-up

All basic stuffs squared away?

Check ignition timing/recheck fuel pressure and check Closed/WOT of throttle positon sensor/MAF/MAP load sensor.

Full tune about a year ago.
Basics all appear proper.
No check engine light. Checked for other codes, none returned.
New fuel filter and fuel pump. Have not done a pressure check.
I will do sensor checks as soon as I can get a manual to verify settings.
Thx for input

I cannot figure this problem out on my car , the car will start up and idle , once i push the gas it dies. Fuel filter and pump were replaced less than a year ago. Thanks for the help

Did you check the mass air flow sensor?

Check my post about the 1994 mazda that dies when accelerating. it was the same problem. A wire came loose and shorted out in the sensor. You can repair them. My car would start and idle and die when the gas was pressed. I know how frustrating this can be. If you have other issues I have done a great deal of work with my protege.

Need help with stalling issue during warm-up.My 1994 Mazda Protege with 120,000 miles stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run time). Asking for help to solve this issue.

I checked the fuel pump for correct pressure as well as the pressure regulator, both are OK.
The Idle air control valve is OK as well as the coolant temperature sensor and Mass air flow meter.
I replaced the throttle body gasket and added gum out fuel injector cleaner to the tank and replaced the spark plugs, air filter and ignition wires. The EVAP solenoid purge valve is OK. Is it possible that a valve clearance adjustment, would solve this?

I would appreciate any help!!

try cleaning the throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. also the iac valve

I had the throttle plate off and cleaned it and the IAC valve was tested compared to a known good one. The car will stall even when given throttle at the narrow temperature range somewhere between 120 to 140 degrees. At operating temperature the car functions normally.

the only thing i can suggest without running a scan on it is to replace the coolant temp sensor even though it tested good. you want the sensor with the blue/white wire an dbrown/black wire. the other is for the fan. sometimes the sensor will read good but aren't when they are in certain ranges.

Thanks for your suggestion. I will definately consider changing the coolent temperature sensor since I have limited experience testing these and they are relatively inexpensive. I will probably check the compression on all cylinders since this should uncover an issue with the valves. The check engine light did not come on so I don't think a scan will show anything. If you don't mind another reply I would appreciate your input on temperature sensor removal such as type of socket to use. Also do most of the compression gauges available fit the spark plug hole for the Japanese cars such as Mazda, Honda, Toyota Etc.?

yes most of the compression gauges would fit. if it were compression though, it would do it all the time. normally if the coolant sensor has awire attached to it then you need a slotted socket otherwise a normal one that fits should work.

My 1993 Mazda Protege lugs when I press the throttle. It actually wants to die. Its like it is getting to much air and after repeated pedal pushes it revs up, but then goes right back to doing it again. What could cause that?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.

I have a 93 Mazda Protege..thought it was missing because it needed a tune up. Did the tune up, changed the fuel filter and it is still cutting out. When it cuts out the check engine light flashes, it hasn't died, and it happens when you begin to accelerate or if you are going up a a hill and rpms drop a little under a load. It just started having a little smell of coolant and the windows fog up some. I hate the thought of head gasket problems. Been there. Would it cut out like that if it is head gasket? Or any other ideas.

Coolant smell means there is a leak somwhere. If it is inside the cabin, the heater core could be the cause.

Get a pressure test performed to locate for leakages. If it is a head gasket problem, the recovery tank would be increasing in level whereas the radiator side would be depleting.

When the MIL indicates, it means an error hads been detected and you need to retrieve the trouble code to find out what is causing it. The trouble code would enable us to know if it is related to the misfiring.

i have a 1993 mazda protege with 187,000 miles. i believe the engine is a dohc. Very very good car just minor touch ups i need to get done like tune-up, muffler replaced, and window but anyway. everytime i turn my ac on my car starts shaking. when its on and i am getting ready to stop at a traffic like, my car shuts off completely. the only time it does that is when my ac is on. now, i'm a female away from home and don't know a lot about cars except the minor things. what can be causing this problems and also during the winter it takes my car a while to warm up. could both of these issue be coming from one thing. :(

When the a/c is turned on it puts more strain on a engine. If the car needs a tune up you should get one done. It could be something simple like a plug fouling under load or a bad wire. as far as the little heat. Change the thermast, it could be going bad.