Stalls out while driving

Have you had the computer scanned?

If the light was on, there will be a trouble code stored in the computer. It will identify where the problem is coming from. Most nationally recognized parts stores will scann the computer for free. Therefore, I recommend having that done to identify where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Not at 60 mph. Erg is not your issue. When the battery was replaced, all the memory from the pcm was erased. The learning process is about 50 miles but it souinds like you have gone that.
I would remove a battery cable again, wait 10 seconds and re attach it and road test before talking about a pcm.
The mechanic did nothing wrong.

Roy

The Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

As for the steering "freezing", many people believe, incorrectly, that this happens when the engine stalls so they don't even try to steer the car. They just "give up" and crash. You are not losing your steering. It is just very hard to steer with no power steering assist. You can still turn the steering wheel but the slower the car goes the harder that becomes to do.

Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner first it may be the cause, then if it continues scan for codes. I am assuming check engine light is not on if it is then scan for codes.

Does it still stall if you shift the transmission into neutral when you come to a stop? If no then it could be the TCC, the easy test is to unplug it and see if it stops the stalling.
If it still stalls then the throttle body and IAC cleaning HMAC suggests would be a good start.

Scan the computer and see if it pops a code/s or do below

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind or wait 15mins-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Actually, the crank sensor sounds more logical than any of the other items replaced. When the engine dies, does it start right back up for you?

It does sound like a crank sensor. Has the check engine light come on? During the few minutes it doesn't restart, have you ever checked to see if the engine is getting spark?

You need new crank sensor
good luck

Crank sensor cheep enough may I suggest replacing it
you can check fuel pressure and for spark when no start happens