Slipping unless overdrive is off

Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Truck slips at about 3,000 RPMs unless overdrive is off. Could this be the OD band or shift solenoid or something completely different?
Sunday, June 5th, 2022 AT 4:01 AM

31 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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This could be the overdrive band, but we need to find out a little more info as to when this slips.

Can you put it in manual 2 and leave the OD on and see if it slips.

If it still slips, then this could be the intermediate clutch or the overdrive. So that means we need to put it in drive with OD still on and see if when in 2nd gear at this RPM it slips. If it does in 2nd with OD on, then this is most likely the intermediate clutch that is slipping.

Also, we should check the fluid level and condition before we do anything just to be sure that is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-and-add-transmission-fluid

If you look at the attached info, the overdrive band is only applied in 2 manual and 4 overdrive.

So, we need to try and find out if the slipping only occurs in these gears to narrow down what this could be.

Let me know if you have questions on this. Thanks
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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I already dropped the pan and pulled the valve body, so I can’t test it, but I know when overdrive is off it’s fine. When overdrive is on, and it gets to 3,000 RPMs the gas pedal gives and the speedometer increases without the car actually going any faster. The rpm doesn’t move though. When checking the valves, I noticed they all bounced back when I pushed them into their springs except for one. One got stuck. Other than that, all the check balls were the right size and in the right spot. Everything looked okay except it really needed the fluid changed. The separator plate also had little pieces of the black coating or paint or whatever is on it chipped off.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
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Can you get a picture of the separator plate if you have not already put it back together? I think I know what you are talking about and that is most likely fine but seeing it will help.

Also, when you say the valves, are you talking about the valves in the valve body? If you have one that is sticking, then that is an issue. They should move pretty easily.

Can you remove the overdrive servo and see if you can get a look at the drum where the band rides? I bet it will look really shiny which means it is most likely slipping and not holding.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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The red arrow is the one that’s sticking and not springing back out and the red rectangle is where the thing in my hand came out of.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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And the second pic is the black stuff that chipped off. Actually, when I went to pick it up to take the pic it started peeling off.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Here’s a video from under the car.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
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Got it. Yeah, that black plate needs to be replaced if it is that bad.

Sometimes the edges start to chip but if there is a crack in it then it needs to be replaced or you can have a fluid leak that will bleed off pressure. That black part is actually the separator plate gasket. There should be one on either side. See below for details.

If that valve is stuck then that could be the issue. That is the bypass valve and is used to control pressure and fluid flow. I am attaching info below on that.

Basically, there is either debris or build up on the valve or in the bore. So, take some Emory Cloth or steel wool and lightly sand it down so that the valve slides in and out smoothly.

The piece in your hand is the control valve plate that holds the valve in.

Let me know if you have questions with this.
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Perfect, thank you! Someone else told me I was going to need a complete overhaul, but I didn’t understand why because there were no flakes or chunks of metal in the pan or valve body. The fluid was just really dirty. So, I figured I should come on this website and get a second opinion because this website is the only place that has never steered me in the wrong direction. If you guys don’t know the answer to my question, then you take the time and try really hard to figure it out, which I appreciate more than you know. Thanks again!
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Monday, June 6th, 2022 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Actually, I do have a couple more questions. The first picture is of what fell out of my transmission onto the floor when I pulled the valve body off. Is it bad that that stuff fell out? If not, then what are those where do they go? Also, the second picture is of one of the little circular plates that goes on the valve body. I was told since I took them off, I would have to replace them or else they would leak. Is that true?
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 7:26 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Also, I don’t need a new separator plate, right? Just the gaskets?
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
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Yes. The separator plate can be reused. Gaskets need to be replaced.

If the fluid was really dirty, then this is why they are saying you need to rebuild the unit. Any time you have slipping and dirty fluid that means it has been doing it for a while and it is safer to rebuild the whole unit while you are there.

You may get more life out of this unit but based on what I am seeing, you may need a rebuild but this may fix the issue in the short term. If I were doing it, I would rebuild it but that is because I have done a lot of these units and they are not too bad, but it is a lot of work.

If you take a look at the picture below. Number 1 is the solenoid screen

Number 2 is a converter drain back valve.

Number 3 I am not sure about. That looks like a cotter pin, but I am not sure where that goes.

Take a look at the attachments above of the exploded view of the valve body to show where they go.

Lastly for the plates, I don't remember having to replace them unless there is an issue.
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Okay, and what can I use to clean everything? Just compressed air or is there a cleaner?
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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The owner of the car said as long as it lasts like a year, so he can save up for a new car, then he’s okay with just changing the fluid and gaskets. And whatever was stuck isn't stuck anymore. I looked at it this morning and they all move freely now. I don’t need to change anything else, right? Since there were no metal prices or anything, right? That cotter pin worries me though because I don’t know where it came from all I know is it dropped when I took the valve body off.
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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The fluid was really dark and this is what the magnet looked like:
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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Are these spots, okay? I can’t get them off.
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2022 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
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Sorry for the delay. The spots are fine. That is pretty typical on those.

You can clean everything with parts cleaner spray. Just make sure you give everything time to evaporate.

Then soak any rubber seals in transmission fluid if you are replacing them. This just prevents any tearing when installing them into a bore. However, I am not sure you have any of these because you are just dropping the valve body.

I cannot think of any other parts that you will have to replace at this point, but we are going to have to test drive it once it is back together.

If the fluid was really dark and that much metal on the magnet then when you put new fluid in it, the clutches may not like it.

There is a myth that if you change old fluid that you are going to have a failure but that is based in some truth. Basically, what happens is when the clutches are damaged to the point that there is metal going through them then this grit actually helps apply the clutches, but it also damages them further. When you flush this out the now damaged clutches have nothing left to grab each other when they are applied and so it starts slipping.

Basically, I would just finish with what you are doing but prep the owner that we have to test drive it in order to make sure there are no other issues. However, you have no way of avoiding them. You can't do all this and not change the fluid or risk this from happening.
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Wednesday, June 8th, 2022 AT 4:30 PM
Tiny
ARIANA NELSON
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So, change the fluid, right? Because I already dumped the old fluid. Will it likely last a year? Or is there no way of telling? There’s should still be some of the old fluid left in the transmission because I only emptied the pan.
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Wednesday, June 8th, 2022 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
ARIANA NELSON
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I don’t need to check the overdrive band or anything? I don't know where that is but I’m sure I could figure it out if I need to. Should I test valve body and solenoids too? I don’t have a vacuum to test the valve body, but I do have a multi meter and an Autel scanner which didn’t pick up anything wrong with the transmission for some reason. Must mean solenoids are fine? I don’t know.
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Wednesday, June 8th, 2022 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
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You have changed what you can from what you have removed.

The next step is, we need to remove the transmission. In order to change the band, we would need to disassemble the unit. Clearly that may be needed but if you are not wanting to do a full rebuild then I am not sure anything is possible.

Yes. Change the fluid. Even if you had the old fluid, I would still recommend changing the fluid.
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Wednesday, June 8th, 2022 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
ARIANA NELSON
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I tried to sign in because I thought I usually sign in through Facebook, but I think I may have just made another account on accident. Sorry lol
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Wednesday, June 8th, 2022 AT 5:05 PM

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