ST9:
You were absolutely right on the best method to remove that bolt - using a breaker bar with an extension is the best way (for the sake of it, I did try my neighbor's 7.5 Amp electric impact wrench and it didn't even touch it). Here was the setup (in case it helps someone else): I used all impact "grade" socket components just in case the torque would be too great. 21mm socket, (2) 8in socket extensions, 1/2in breaker bar and a 48" pipe. I set up two concrete pavers along side the car, placed the car's tire jack on top of them and raised it to the height of the bolt. Instead of a flywheel tool, which would have been ideal, I used the car jack's wrench as a stop in the flywheel (probably not ideal). I aligned everything and carefully cranked down on bolt and had it off in less than 10 seconds - amazingly easy. The flywheel came off without the special tool I signed out from Advanced Auto.
One note - where is the harmonic balancer on this thing? Is it on the other side?
Anyway, I removed the timing cover to reveal a slight horror. The two guides for the chain were nowhere to be found and the tensioner was half gone. Both sprockets had teeth that were worn down to nubs. Also, the chain really ground away at some of the surfaces and one of the guide bolts, leaving the remaining oil full of aluminum and other filings. Further, with all the metal filings in the oil, here is my plan from here - in addition to the head work above:
1. Drop the oil pan and drain all oil.
2. Replace the oil filter.
3. Clean the crankshaft housing, and valve cover housing and rocker arm/cam shaft housing.
Also, what is that component on the inside of the timing cover, sandwiched between the cover and a bolted on casing (where the crankshaft bolt and lower sprocket go through)?
It really feels good to get the bolt off and obviously, could not be done without your help. Thanks.
Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM
(Merged)