Timing chain replacement

I would like to know the proper timing procedure for timing chain installation. It is a dohc engine.

Car makes rattling noise when starting for 2-4 seconds and fades out. One mechanic at a local car shop thinks it is the timing chain tensioner worn out and needs replacement soon. I have been very good at keeping oil changes and maintaining oil levels.

If this true, what would the estimate be?

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Saturn SL1 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

is therre any secrets that I should be aware of when it comes to replacing the timing chain on a sohc engine? Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Saturn SL1 Automatic 149000 miles

Several days ago, I tried to start my car but couldn't get the engine to catch. I had it towed to a mechanic, who told me the timing chain was broken. This would have happened either right before I last turned the car off, or right when I started it that morning. I tried to start it maybe eight times over the course of several days before having it towed. But it's unlikely that it would have broken at a high RPM. Is there any way to ball park the chances that the broken chain caused valve or piston damage? Thanks!

So I recently bought my car from someone and it was making a noise so I looked at the timing chain and the gear it was on was broken so before I put the car back together I need to know, How do I reset the timing?

After researching this site and others, here is how I can best explain this scenario.

Engine is the 1.9L SOHC LK0 or L24

Situation: While driving to work, my friend's car "seemed to be loosing power." When she got to work, parked it, only later to unsuccessfully start the car. The car was towed to a garage.

The garage said that she "broke" her timing chain and that it would need to be replaced and there might be possible engine damage.

So, after research, I feel I can replace the "broken" timing chain. If I did, I would buy a replacement kit, which includes the sprockets, the guides the tensioner and a new chain. Not really a big deal it seems.

However, as I have learned, since this engine is an "interference" engine, it is likely that upon failure of the timing chain, that any number of the valves could be bent and possibly the pistons bent as well.

Questions:

1. Is there a way I can (relatively) easily check to see if the valves and/or pistons are damaged?

2. If it is only bent valves, can I just replace the valves and get away with it?

3. If not, and the valves need replaced, what other valve related parts need replaced?

4. About 5 days prior to this problem, she had her oil pan replaced - could that have led to this problem, since the tensioner seems to be actuated hydraulically by the oil (i.E. A poor oil pan installation led to oil leakage, led to no tensioner actuation, led to chain slippage, etc.)?

Saturntech9: Thanks for those answers. Based upon your answer and what I have gathered throughout reading all the forums, it's likely that one or several of the valves are bent. So, I am going to assume that. However, it is possible that something else could be messed up so, here is my plan of action:

1. Put the new chain kit on and then perform a compression test. This would clue me into which cylinder has problems.

2. If there is a cylinder with a problem, I am going to have to remove the head and see what in that cylinder is causing the problem.

3. Replace any valves and valve components as needed (assuming the piston won this battle).

4. I would also get a new head gasket kit to replace and seal the gasket I am removing, since I am in there (using the Permatex Ultra Grey as needed).

5. Sounds like I should put new spark plugs in while I am at it.

So, Saturntech9, does that sound about right? Also, should I consider any water pump issues as a result of this mechanical issue - or is that not related?

Thanks again for your time.

Cool deal, saturntech9. I will be working on this the next few days and will close this thread with the results. Thanks, again.

Saturntech9:

Had a heck of a time with a few bolts, but I should have expected that with a car that is roughly 17 years old (thanks for PB Blaster). I am at a point where I am uncertain of something:

1. Do I have to remove the bolt on the crankshaft to remove the cover (thinking that it might be held in there by a slotted fit and I might just have to tug on it)?

2. Do I have to remove the bolt on the top center fly-wheel to remove the cover (I am thinking I don't since it seems it might fixed to the cover itself).

Assuming I had to remove the crankshaft bolt (5/8" I believe), I was trying to wedge a socket handle (and other stiff objects) against the crankshaft pulley to keep it from rotating, while I tried to unloosen the nut - but to no avail. That is why I asked the question above.

Again, thanks for all your help.

Alyoshablue

Saturntech9:

I've broken two ratchet sets trying to loosen the bolt on the "balancer" - which connects to the crankshaft. I went to Autozone last night in search of the fly wheel tool you suggested and after talking with the folks there, the said, "just get an electric (I forget) drill, which you can purchase at Harbor Freight for the maximum of $50. Makes sense, as it seems I can't provide enough torque on the bolt. Let me know if that makes sense.

Additionally, what seemed to be a simple experience of give and take, posting on this site, this job is taking on some elements which are requiring specific questions and a considerable amount of time on my behalf and ultimately, your behalf. So, in good conscious, I don't feel comfortable continuing the back and forth without compensating you for your knowledge and time. I would not know how to proceed with this, however, if you were to agree with this, it might make sense to just send you a check? I believe in what goes around, comes around - and you've been more than generous with your time.

Thanks, Saturntech9.