Will not stay running

Tiny
EWC177
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD RANGER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Truck will start and run fine, but shuts off after a few minutes and will start right back up. Does it have a ICM or a fuel pump driver?
Wednesday, May 13th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This vehicle does not have a fuel pump driver. It has a relay and the driver is part of the PCM. Basically the PCM sends the signal to close the relay and then the signal goes through an inertia switch to the pump. When this happens we need to leave the key on and check the switch just to make sure it is not opening.

Next I attached the info about the ignition system and we need to suspect a crank sensor as the most likely cause. Clearly there are other causes of this like and idle air control valve not functioning properly.

I have attached the info on all this for your review. Let me know what you find with this and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service
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Wednesday, May 13th, 2020 AT 3:35 PM
Tiny
EWC177
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Already changed the ECM, IAC, throttle position sensor, battery, alternator, crankshaft sensor, MAF, plugs and wires, coil pack, fuel pump and filter, fuel pressure switch, EGR valve, checked for manifold leak with ether, temperature sensor, fuel relay, jump wired the inertia switch to check it, replaced any fuses that were bad, and checked fuel pressure. The new fuel pump runs at about 26 psi, unless I remove the vacuum line from the new pressure regular. Thought may have had bad pump or regulator, so the ones on it now are a second set that I got. First fuel pump was Airtek. Was told they were know for problems. So exchanged it and bought another pressure regulator that was better name brand. With vacuum line off it runs at 32 psi, but still dies after a few minutes. Truck has no tachometer on it, but it's an obd2, so I put my meter on it and set for rpm. It starts high, around 1500-1600. Then drops to around a 1,000 and bob's back and forth to 900 or less, then just drops and dies. The ECM was programmed by the company I got it from. Had to send them my VIN number. All grounds that I see look fine. My problem is that it cranks fine, runs a few minutes and just straight up dies. No codes.I can stand by hood and keep revving it up to keep it running but doesn't idle right and still try's to die. Also tried to straight wire the fuel pump. But it still does the same thing. Would do a load test, but I don't have a tester. So. Do you have a answer that I missed? Thanks
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Wednesday, May 13th, 2020 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
EWC177
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  • 144 POSTS
Bought another fuel pump, Delphi. And a bwd pressure regulator.
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Thursday, May 14th, 2020 AT 3:29 AM
Tiny
EWC177
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  • 144 POSTS
Where did you go, KaseKenny?
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Thursday, May 14th, 2020 AT 8:10 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Sorry for the delay. Have you monitored fuel pressure when this is running and then stalling? You should be running upwards of 40 PSI. I doubt this little bit of pressure difference would cause this but would be interesting to see what it does when it is stalling.

Then just to clarify the issue. It starts and runs fine until it gets warm and then is stalls. Starts back up and stalls immediately or will it run for a while and then stall?
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Thursday, May 14th, 2020 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
EWC177
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  • 144 POSTS
Pressure stays constant. Runs same each time I start it. Ecm was wrong, guy at parts store ordered wrong 1. Be about a wk to get new 1. Hopefully it will fix problems. Will let u know. Thanks
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Friday, May 15th, 2020 AT 2:35 AM
Tiny
EWC177
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Returned the ECM back to parts store. They guy who ordered it (who has been fired recently) ordered the wrong one. Will get a new one reprogrammed in about a week. Hopefully this fixed my problem. As for your questions. Just in case. Pressure stays consistent and it starts up and runs about the same every time.
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Friday, May 15th, 2020 AT 4:53 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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That is great information about the pressure. I am sure we would have gotten to an ECM issue but it was not the next thing so I am so glad you jumped to it. If it was the wrong one then that is definitely something that needs to be correct before going any further. Thanks for the update.
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Friday, May 15th, 2020 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
EWC177
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Hey KaseKenny, found out Advance Auto gave me the wrong ECM. Swapped it out with the one that Cardone says goes with my VIN and I also got a better brand MAF sensor and put on it. It will start up good and runs for a while but it lopes and acts like it wants to shut off still. Took it down the road about a mile or so hit 80 mph easily, but still lopes when I parked it. So, now where does that leave me?
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Hate it when that happens.

In reviewing this post, I would think we need to revisit the fuel pressure with this issue. The running fuel pressure should be upwards of 40 PSI and you said it was around 26. While this will may get the engine to start and run, it will most likely stumble or even stall in certain cases, much like what you are experiencing.

Let's double check the pressure and go from there. Do it with key on engine off, and then with it running and see what it reads. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 3:58 PM

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