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Replacing crank pulley

Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 MAZDA 3
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 80,000 MILES
I have the care listed above 3i. That I removed from another car that has less then 80,000 and runs great. And I installing it into a 2007 Mazda 3i that had a 2.0 as well both non turbo.
The crank pulley had a small piece broken off the pulley that keeps the belt on, it's a pulley set up for 2 belts with a sprocket against the block.
I read to set it close top dead center and remove the bling hole bolt for the crank and put a pin bolt in, and slowly turn the motor over until pin goes in and you can tighten the pin bolt where it bottoms out, and that the single only hole I have on the pulley will line up with the hole from motor and that will be top dead center. But mine is not, so instead of the pulley being perfectly at 6 o'clock I'm around 5:45.I don't want to loosen the bolt and replace the pulley until I know what's right or tolerance. I also got a small piece of steel with ridges cut out that I don't understand where it's supposed to go unless I remove my timing covers etc.
I appreciate your time for reading this and thank you.
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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I attached the process on how to replace the pulley. Sounds like you are close with what you are doing. Review this and let me know if you need more info. Thanks
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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  • 32 POSTS
Thank you. So I need to align the hole in the harmonic balancer to the the one in the motor then put he bolt through pulley into motor then install pin and turn engine over till pin can bottoms out?
I read to many different ways people went about doing it and how it carried from one person saying that if you do it one style of method your engine won't run, and the next version contradicts his. And someone experienced wasn't there saying everyone did each step correctly.
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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  • 32 POSTS
I need to remove the valve cover to replace pulley only?
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
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Okay. I am glad you are asking these questions because this is not a keyed pulley so it will not not start if you don't have it on TDC. You need to remove the bolt from the side of the engine and install the stopping tool that is the specific length so that it will stop the engine at TDC on number one. You install this specific length bolt first, then turn the crank by hand until it stops. Once you do this, your pulley alignment hole should be lined up with the hole in the block. Once this is lined up, you remove the crank bolt (21mm) with an impact gun and it will come right off.

Remove the pulley. Install the new one with the alignment hole centered over the hole in the block. See the first picture. Tighten the alignment bolt.

Install the 21mm bolt. Tighten it to the torque specs. This is where you need to hold the engine because you are going to tighten it a lot. The second picture is of the special tool they are calling for. Basically this holds the flex-pate/flywheel so it doesn't move which is connected to the opposite end of the crankshaft. Do not just just the alignment bolt and TDC tool. It is not strong enough.

Here is a video of someone getting creative:

https://youtu.be/IBsDIIKjG88

Other people just us an impact and let it go. I don't think this is enough.

Once you have it installed, the common issue is the engine will not start. This is because the crank sensor is not lined up properly. If you have this issue, I can find a video showing how to fix that. It is pretty easy.

Let me know if you still have questions. Here is another video of someone removing the pulley:

https://youtu.be/_iyXiZI-KjQ
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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  • 32 POSTS
Thank you, sorry it was a long day, it was 5 before I realized I lunch had gone by.
I removed the pulls bolt and I had someone hold the flywheel with a screw driver, I loosened the bolt, the flywheel moved I hand tightened the pulley to bring it back a tiny bit, I set the bolt through the pulley and lined it back up with. The marks. I can't lie, my heart hit the floor and moaning worried I possibly messed it up. The flywheel. Didn't move that far maybe a tooth but I don't believe the pulls moved with it, I'm unsure. That's when I tightened it up snug after lining up and running the bolt through the pulley and start process over. It seems to want to ever so slightly move clockwise, and the pin is still in place, I inspected it to. Make sure. It just doesn't take much to make it turn a smudge. But my marks I made from the last pulley and sprocket, along with the hole through pulley into the front cover all long up. The flywheel rotated in clockwise position if that matters.
I'm not a man with luck, I make my own when I can. But! Lol. I messed it up when that flywheel moved didn't i? And my realign?
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Wednesday, May 27th, 2020 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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My engine is still married to the transmission and I have it on my table, I wanted to do all I could before installing it then fight it later.
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Wednesday, May 27th, 2020 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
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It doesn't sound like you messed it up. If you had the alignment pin in through the crank and were holding it by the flywheel with a screw driver, then I am sure you will be fine. Did you install the TDC pin where you unscrew the plug and install the depth tool?

Again, if you install it and it doesn't start then more then likely you just need to adjust the crank sensor. It has slotted bolt holes so it can move up and down about a half inch. So if that happens, I will send you a video of how to adjust that which can be done in the vehicle very easily.
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Thursday, May 28th, 2020 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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Thank you, I didn't know there was a depth tool, I used the pin in the crank, the bolt in the pulley until I had to remove it, and flywheel. I bought a lot that has the pin and a bar for the cans, I didn't use the bar.
With the new pulley on and the pin still in holding the crank but the engine has kind of a slight spring feeling and it moves a touch, and I turn it back to my marks, I don't know if I possibly put the pin In that other hole that I read about. Because prior to loosening pulley it felt as it were hitting something solid, but after the flywheel moving as little as it did or, I really don't know. I'm know camera guy but I'm sending a video and you can see it's like spring loaded when I turn it back to the marks I made from other pulley it wants to turn. And it's a little off the exact marks I made from the old pulley. I sent a pic also of it not lining up exactly. I appreciate your help, its cool someone would take time out of there day to help others. You have our respect, thank you and my hats off to ya.
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Friday, May 29th, 2020 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
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No problem. That is why we are here. We enjoy helping. The experts on here actually work for the website so it's not like we are volunteers. Just don't want you to think I am that generous. :)

Take a look at this video. It shows the tool that you need to make sure it stays at TDC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iyXiZI-KjQ

You may be okay with that mark that you made but again, once you get this installed, it is fixable if you have starting issues.

As for the amount that is moving in the video, is not a big deal. That appears to just be the bounce back from the air in the cylinder on the compression stroke. That will actually make it feel like an air cushion.

Let me know what you thing after you review that video.

In fact, I am just going to include on to adjust the crank sensor in case you need it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNpwAI5zY0o
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
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  • 32 POSTS
Thank you, and that definitely makes me feel a better. I'll check. It out and keep you posted. Have a good weekend.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
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Sounds great. Thanks for the update. Let us know. We will wait to hear back.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2020 AT 10:37 AM

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