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Red wrench light

Tiny
IBLASHAUN
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 FORD FOCUS
  • 3.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
When I take off it is fine then my engine revs up (transmission fluid fine) When I bought this car guarantee no child had ever been in it, all maintenance was done at Ford. I took to transmission shop said need new one. But have drove car like this for 5 months seems would of went out.I did some work myself and thought maybe something had to be set after replace part it got to where it didn't want to start replaced switch ignition cylinder then bought a ignition lock housing then that fixed. I did these things myself right after I put housing on I started having problem with engine revving up. I took to O'Reilly they said shift solenoid D was stuck on or off don't remember so I went over in city and bought solenoid and a mechanic friend of mine put it on didn't change anything he even swapped d and I think A but no different.
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 5:17 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Since the warning light is present, the first thing I would do is have the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. It could be on for a few different reasons and there may be codes that are relevant to the transmission issue.

Now, you mentioned the transmission fluid is full. Is it clean? Does it have a burnt odor to it? Are you checking it at operating temp with the engine running?

Next, if I understand correctly, the transmission seems to go into neutral, the engine revs and then it goes into gear. That could be related to transmission line pressure. If it is low, it can cause this. There were some issues where the transmission cooler required back flushing due to partial blockages. Also, there is a line pressure solenoid that can cause this.

What I need you to do first is scan the computer for codes. Here is a quick video showing how it is done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times, a parts store will do it free of charge. This needs done. Otherwise, it becomes a guessing game. I don't want you to spend time checking things which are not related. I hope you understand.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, April 9th, 2020 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
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Sorry been a minute I am going threw probate on my Moms estate. I did take to O'Reilly and was told shift solenoid D was stuck open or something like that so I went over in city I believe REDS and bought D and mechanic friend put in for me I drove it no difference so he even swapped D with another one still no change. I took back to O'Reilly and said solenoid D was bad. What about a grounding strap someone mentioned that could be the cause do you think it could? I am going to watch video on YouTube if I remember right I can do that myself on car or should I take to different auto parts?
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

Do you still have the diagnostic trouble code that was pulled at the parts store? If I have that, I can check to see what different possible things could cause the issue.

Now keep in mind, an open basically means there is no continuity through the wiring to the solenoid. Basically, it's like turning a light switch off and stopping power. So, there is a good chance it is a bad connection, broken wire or something causing power interruption to the solenoid.

Let me know if you have the code.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, April 14th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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Okay, don't think any of these codes for solenoid, C1155 left speed sensor (which I know is in there backwards then gave me transmission code of U0402, Bravo1676 that's the only thing come up.
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

I looked up the codes you provided. Do me a favor. Repair the left front speed sensor. I have a feeling the others may be set as a result of that code. The u0402 indicates the transmission control module perimeters are out of a predetermined range. I realize it may not be associated with the wheel speed sensor, but at the same time, I know the 402 can affect the ABS, traction control and so on. That is why I am thinking it may be related.

If the sensor doesn't fix the issue, then we need to check connections at the TCM to determine if there is a bad connection, corrosion, a bad TCM or ECU, or if in fact the transmission is the issue. Note that the problem is occurring between the ECU and TCM.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, July 26th, 2020 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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I guess made some progress the code for solenoid didn't come up, I have no engine light on just the ABS. I will have the sensor fixed thank you. Also I will drive for a while because I didn't see the red wrench light when drove home but could of missed.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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If you have a chance, let me know if installing the sensor correctly takes care of the ABS issue. I suspect it will, but would like to know. Also, it will likely help others that read this thread.

Take care of yourself.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
  • MEMBER
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Okay, finally got the wheel sensor in and drove car the red wrench light and abs light was on it told me to remove positive cable and push break to reset electrical, so I did. Now I have no lights on dash what so ever. Do I need drive for awhile to get code to come up? I am sure they said put wheel bearing in backwards but have no lights and ran system check on car and said nothing wrong with break system. But so far still have same problem drives fine until go from second to third revs up if I let off gas it shifts easily into third. But so far no codes come up I have a innova3100 and a centechobd2/eobd no codes from either.
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Sunday, October 11th, 2020 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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So I would say the sensor took car of the ABS light.
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Sunday, October 11th, 2020 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi and welcome back.

I'm trying to determine what is happening. If I understand, the sensor did take care of the ABS issue, but now the lights are not working. Is that correct? Do any of them work? Did this just happen since you reconnected the battery?

Let me know.
Joe
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Sunday, October 11th, 2020 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
I haven't driven it for a while so have to jump it and have company as soon as they leave I will check it out. But last night I didn't have any lights on after I started it I put tester on ha no codes come up ran a im readiness, in use perfor track, read pid live data, but no codes stored or pending, don't know if it should take a while after the reset or what. I will drive to see if ge3t anything today. My tags expired in April so just drive in neighborhood but do have insurance.
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Monday, October 12th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
  • MEMBER
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Okay, I drove about 6 blocks and seat belt buzzer came on then went off about 5 blocks after that came on buzzed couple times and went off again. Then that wrench light come on and it staying on. The lights on dash work I meant they wasn't on after I started like before but so far that's it. Gonna try doing codes but no engine light so probably wont work.
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Monday, October 12th, 2020 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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One more thing, i'm sure my wrench was red, now it is yellow.
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Monday, October 12th, 2020 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

In this case, I am going to recommend that you scan the can bus system. CAN stands for computer area network. There are a few wires that tie everything together. If there is an issue, this should identify it.

Here is a video showing how it is done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

This is what I feel should be done at this point.

Let me know if it is something you can do.

Joe
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Monday, October 12th, 2020 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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I don't understand, don't get any codes, IM readiness, spark ignition monitor, in use perform track, read pid, live data. Does any of these help?
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Tuesday, October 13th, 2020 AT 12:45 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

If you are using a scan tool that can't read codes other than for the engine, emissions, and IM readiness that could be the problem. By any chance, do you have access to a scan too that can check the entire can bus system?

Joe
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Tuesday, October 13th, 2020 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
On the test or whatever there called I did notice that in the allowed INC monitors the first time had green dot in number 3 this time the green dot was in 1. I still cant run obd test because have no engine light and I drove 3 tenths of a mile and the wrench light came back on, but it is yellow now instead of red. Is there something I can do to make engine light come on?
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Tuesday, October 13th, 2020 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

That indicates incomplete. The vehicle needed driven through specific drive cycles for them to clear. I'm not sure (it's different on different scan tools) what number 3 and 1 would have been. As far as causing the engine light to come on, that is easy, but it wouldn't be relevant because I don't know what caused it in the first place.

I hope that makes sense.

Joe
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Tuesday, October 13th, 2020 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
IBLASHAUN
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I will ask about a different tool, tester. The key turning on and off to get codes will that work? In the meantime I will drive see if anything comes up. What type test do you recommend or what tool I guess I should say?
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 9:32 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

See if you can get a scanner that checks the entire CAN BUS system. As far as the key test, chances are it won't do the trick.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:51 PM

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